Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Long crank, except when foot on pedal?

[TWenske]

I have read alot in the forums about this with no clear answer. This is a 96 Ram 2500 5 speed 4x4 12 valve with 147,000 miles. It has a long crank time, maybe 2-4 seconds before it starts. If you put your foot on the go pedal it starts instantly. The owner claims it is also short on power and gets poor mileage. New fuel filter a couple hundred miles ago. Tried pumping the primer, it made the bypass squeak right away with the first pump and still cranked awhile before it started. This is a all bone stock engine, original injection pump, injectors, lift pump, the only things that have been done are valves adjusted and both rubber lines replaced to the pump. Any thoughts?



Thanks in advance.

 

[tp0d]

That crank time is very typical of a 12v. I always give her a little pedal, makes her start up within 1-2 revolutions.

Whats the state of the overflow valve on the injection pump? They typically last 50-60k, depending. Other thing to check is for a boost leak anywhere. If you have a 5-speed, you should check the AFC boost line from the turbo to the back of the injection pump. A leak there will not only drop boost, but will cut back low end grunt, which will cause it to be a dog, and possibly waste fuel. The squeak isnt a huge thing, it could either be a check valve in the lift pump, or the overflow valve showing signs of wear. I`d recommend checking fuel pressure, but you need a gauge.

-j

 

[DonTX]

Seems to be simply the nature of the beast. Mine does exactly the same thing on startup (but runs like a scalded *** ape when the fire gets lit). I have just learned to give it a little pedal when cranking up. I believe it is the P pump, I had two older 12v with the VE pump, needed no foot pedal for an instant start.

I have read alot in the forums about this with no clear answer. This is a 96 Ram 2500 5 speed 4x4 12 valve with 147,000 miles. It has a long crank time, maybe 2-4 seconds before it starts. If you put your foot on the go pedal it starts instantly. The owner claims it is also short on power and gets poor mileage. New fuel filter a couple hundred miles ago. Tried pumping the primer, it made the bypass squeak right away with the first pump and still cranked awhile before it started. This is a all bone stock engine, original injection pump, injectors, lift pump, the only things that have been done are valves adjusted and both rubber lines replaced to the pump. Any thoughts?



Thanks in advance.

 

[fest3er]

That crank time is very typical of a 12v. I always give her a little pedal, makes her start up within 1-2 revolutions. ...

Really? Almost since it was new, my 98's only needed to have the key bumped just long enough to get a single 'Rowr!' out of it (or less), and it has started, hot or warm, no pedal needed. Cold needs a little more, and frigid needs even more. Often, I'm positive the engine has just stopped turning when it fires up, though sometimes it shudders and poops the mattress. Should I be surprised it's never run backward?

 

[Devan Manis]

you might check that the shut off solenoid is fully up before you start it with the key on, my friend had the same thing and his solenoid was only partially up.

 

[Missouri Mule]

What are your rpms at idle? You mite have to increase idle a little. But a little pedal to start it is no problem.

 

[wcjp]

The autos take an extra second to start. My 96' 5spd would start instantly. Only after replacing the fuel supply/return line and the fuel line from the preheater to lift pump. The fuel line will leak air in, but, no fuel out. Dryrot. Also, verify your idle is correct.

 

[Skydiver]

Mine does it as well. Normal. Just needs to be idled up. I always add 1/2 inch of pedal.

 

[DonTX]

In prior discussions, the idle speed has been mentioned. For those with a p pump whose are starting without pedal, what is your idle set at?

 

[TWenske]

Thanks for the ideas guys, I did check the shut off solenoid first, it is working properly. The idle is set at 750, I don't know if that is too low, but seems OK. I will check the AFC boost line for cracks or leaks. Am I correct that the AFC line only has pressure when the turbo is building boost? Trying to think how to check for leaks.

Thanks again.

 

[MAllen1]

One other suggestion. When I was a tech at a local Dodge dealer about 10 years ago, there seem to be a lot of problems like this w/the 96-98 models. One of the first things we would check would be the rubber fuel delivery lines, starting right under the driver floorboard, and going up to the the lift pump (I think, it's been about 6 yrs. since the last time I messed with one). Either way, that hose will start cracking and sucking air. It won't be bad enough to leak or cause a no start problem, but, would cause symtoms that you are describing. Not hard to replace (3/8 rubber hose about 1 foot long and a couple hose clamps), just tedious because there isn't much room for say an arm to wiggle around to the top hose clamp off without taking the inner fender off .

 

[Joe G.]

The 12 valve is MECHANICAL!!!!! There is no computer to manipulate the throttle to start it. Read the sticker on the back of the driver side sun visor. If you want it to start without pressing on the pedal you have to increase the idle. If you would like it to idle a little slower use a little pedal to start it. There is nothing wrong at all. It's just the way it works. On later trucks the computer steps on the pedal to help start. On a mechanical truck it's up to the driver. I always step on the pedal to start it so it will start instantly. The idle setting should be at least 800 RPM with the trans in gear (automatic trans) and the AC on.

 

[DonTX]

OK, here is a photo of mine idling in drive with the AC on. Darned if I know what speed that is supposed to represent. Anybody else looked at theirs?

 

[robbiesworld]

Mine has always done that, I bumped up the idle just slightly and it helped... ..... oh crap I just remembered I have a zip tie holding my throttle linkage in place!! oh well it's lasted a year it will be ok... .

 

[Rhondasway]

OK, here is a photo of mine idling in drive with the AC on. Darned if I know what speed that is supposed to represent. Anybody else looked at theirs?

In my opinion that idle is too low. I like to run mine at 750 in drive with brake on. It is normal to have to crank a few times, but when I got tired of it I bumped my idle up and fixed the problem. We did the same on my old '97. It's an easy fix.

Just think, saving several cranks every startup may make your starter last longer!

 

[DonTX]

I always give it a bit of throttle, just to save the starter, it starts instantly that way. Well crap, I guess I need to figure out where to adjust up the idle speed and see if it helps, anybody have guidance? (I just hate to dig out that huge book and try to find it).

In my opinion that idle is too low. I like to run mine at 750 in drive with brake on. It is normal to have to crank a few times, but when I got tired of it I bumped my idle up and fixed the problem. We did the same on my old '97. It's an easy fix.

Just think, saving several cranks every startup may make your starter last longer!

 

[Missouri Mule]

You looked low Don needs to be above the white line.

 

[Rhondasway]

I always give it a bit of throttle, just to save the starter, it starts instantly that way. Well crap, I guess I need to figure out where to adjust up the idle speed and see if it helps, anybody have guidance? (I just hate to dig out that huge book and try to find it).

There are good pics somewhere on the site. Probably search this section. It's kind of a reach on the back of the pump.

 

[Joe G.]

The first thing to seems to be so hard to understand it that having to press on the pedal to start is NOT a problem. Here is a picture that shows where things are at the back on the injection pump.

#ad

 

[cfarrar]

There's a good photo in the factory manual. The idle adjustment screw is on the back of the pump. Move the "throttle" linkage with your left hand and follow it back with your right hand until you find a 10-mm hex screw head that contacts a stop when the linkage is released. There's a lock-nut (also 10-mm) underneath the ear into which the screw is threaded. The adjustment is sensitive, so don't turn it much at a time.



This little adjustment fixed my truck's starting problem. It was idling at around 500 or 600, but spec. is around 800. Making it idle at that speed makes mine start without any pedal and it has a lot more torque at that speed. I object a little to the idea that a little pedal is fine. It's hard to give it "little enough" pedal to keep from having it race without oil pressure when it starts. Who wants to race it before oil pressure has built?