Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Long overdue fuel filter, what damages?

[Fordiesel69]

I was absolutly pi$$ed when I cut open my fuel filter to find that there was loads of water, algae, and sediment. Far overdue from the PO. The truck runs way better cold there is no comparison. Starts on 2-3rd compression stone cold now.



Anyways, I noticed when I did the DV's the original 167's were a little rusted on the sides. I opened one of my injectors and found the same thing. I put in nice used clean 181 dv's and a set of used 215's. What other damage could there be in the pump? What would the symptoms be if there was damage?



If the tank and lines have algae in them, when chemicals should I used to clean it out? Does regular treatment contain any additves for this?

 

[Signal73]

check out some biocide from fleetguard, maybe make a cocktail with some howes meaner cleaner.



Microbicide



Howes Lubricator: Products

 

[Shadrach]

Biodiesel really cleans out the whole fuel system, so much so that it will plug a filter in no time. The local Cummins Distributor has always told us to change out fuel filters at least every second oil change. Shadrach

 

[Skydiver]

I am in no way saying this is better.

A dirty restricted filter, will filter better than a new filter. The old filter "should" have not allowed any trash through. Can't comment on the algae.

 

[Joe G.]

The algae will plug up the filter quicker. Other trash won't get through the filter. A dirty filter will filter better. A fuel pressure gauge will let you know when a fuel filter is getting plugged up. The concern here is the water. The filter won't stop it. I normally get fuel at place that sells a lot of it so I have never had a water problem. I also use some biocide in my aux tank to control that.

 

[Fordiesel69]

It looks like the algae got thru the filter or was simply growing in the center, as well as lots of water. The water rusted the bottom plate and flakes of it chipped off.



On my ford I changed it before every winter, and never had any signs of anything in it, looked like brand new. I will do this one again in 6 months and then go back to yearly changes as I think the PO just let it go too long. As much of a PITA it is to change, I can understand why. It really suck that you you have to move the master cylinder aside just to get a filter wrench in there.

 

[Joe G.]

Don't use a filter wrench. Use a big screwdriver you don't mind hammering on. Use it like a chizel on the rim of the filter to loosen it. Then unscrew it by hand. That's quicker than a filter wrench anyway.

 

[MAllen]

does anyone know how many times a average tank of fuel will get filtered by the time it is gone because of the return line.

 

[Joe G.]

I'm not sure, but I do have some experience that will give us something to go by. I have an aux tank that is in the truck bed most of the time. I have a tank select valve that will switch the input to the aux tank if the main tank is low. Fuel always returns to the main tank so when the aux tank is input the result is to transfer fuel to the main tank. This transfer rate is dependant on what I'm doing. If I'm just loafing along the transfer rate is about 50 GPH. Sometimes more than that. So that would mean that a full tank, if the selected tank was the main tank, would go through the filter in less than an hour. So as fuel was used it would go through the filter more often. These numbers are pretty rough because I didn't really do any calculating. Rather, they are based on how long it took to fill the main tank from the aux tank running on US101 in this area.

 

[champspa]

My filter shows, water in fuel, yours should to genos sells new water sensors as well as fuel filters.

 

[BSMcCauley]

It really suck that you you have to move the master cylinder aside just to get a filter wrench in there.

I get a filter wrench on my factory fuel filter OK without disturbing the brake equipment by using the model that lets the handle swing to one side or the other and putting it on the filter so that I'm reaching back under the fuel shut-off solenoid area to operate the filter wrench. Actually, operating the wrench is the easiest part of my filter change. May be different for a manual truck with the clutch's master cylinder also in the way? Too bad DC left the fuel filter at Cummins std location. May have saved them 30 seconds on the assembly line, but costs us a pile of time and frustration in accessing that location once the brake booster & master cylinder are put in the way. #@$%!



I mounted a Racor 490T filter with WIF sensor and 200W heater back on the frame and plumbed in just after the fuel tank to bust out the water and big stuff (>10 micron) in a location that is easy for me to drain and/or change at more regular intervals. :-laf However, I find that the much larger capacity of this filter reduces the filter change intervals as well, particularly when I end up with a dirty fuel-up. I monitor the lift pump suction with a vacuum gage to let me know when it's time to replace the 90T element. It also reminds me to turn on the filter heater in cold weather (#2 diesel @ 38*F = 5-8" Hg extra restriction on the new 10 micron element before the heater restores order)