Looking at a V10 to 24 valve converted truck

[agff]

Hello all, I'm wondering a few things that you might be able to help with. I am going to look at a 98 2500 that was a V10 and has been converted to a 24 valve 5. 9. Dealer bought it from a mega dealer where it came in on trade - so no direct history. Truck had a V10 originally.



Couple specific questions: This is described as a crate motor 5. 9 - if so - can I verify through cummins? if so - where do I find the serial number?



Second - supposedly the miles are accurate, can the miles be kept after making the conversion? The dash has been converted as well.



Thanks much,

 

[HBarlow]

Hmmmm. We don't know from your post where you live or how severe emissions inspections might be where you live but emissions compliance could be a big issue in some cities and states.

I would be very cautious about that purchase. There were many differences between a V10 and a Cummins-powered truck and some might be very important.

If someone had access to a complete truck with a complete engine and driveline, front and rear suspension, all wiring harnesses, cooling system, and lots of other parts I am unaware of AND if all of those parts were transferred and installed correctly it might be a good truck.

Sounds risky to me.

 

[agff]

Sorry, can't seem to edit my profile yet - but can post?

Iowa - emissions are not a issue. I did a vin lookup and nothing shows flags on it for salvage etc, looks to have been registered here in state from new till now, appears one owner up to around 3 years ago, then a diffrent owner till present trade in. This was traded at a large mega dealer and now a smaller town dealership has it (too old for the mega dealer to keep around, but no records / history).

I'm planning on going to look at it saturday, and check to see if it has a 53 block. Current owner of a 01 2500 with a V8, this would be taking over as a "farm truck" and daily driver, then a year or so would plan on replacing the 01 quad cab with a new / next to new 1/2 ton 4 crew cab.

 

[JR]

I wouldnt be too concerned about it being a 53 block thats way over hyped many people have several hundred thousand miles with no issues on one. Plus if it truly is a new block and not a reman it wont be a 53. The only "emissions" equipment that really came on the 24v are the electronically controlled injection pump and the resonator/muffler in the exhaust. The same transmissions were used between the v10 and cummins so it really should have been a fairly straightforward swap, fuel tank, dash cluster, engine mounts, harness, ecm/pcm. Definitely request a lengthy test drive, if its an auto make sure it shifts through all gears and the converter locks up in 4th. If for some reason theres a check engine light ask to see them hook it up on a scanner and see for yourself what codes are showing, just to ensure its not a hack job and the ecm is communicating as it should with all the vital sensors.

Oh yeah, one more thing. Once you get used to the torque of a diesel, your going to want to kick rocks at that new 4 door half ton

 

[NIsaacs]

Are you sure it is a 24v? The 12v was way easier to convert so it might be one, not that it matters tho



Nick

 

[mwilson]

Grab some underhood pics for us to see. Some good sharp eyes on here.



Mike.

 

[Grizzly]

Unless you're getting a super great price on that truck, I wouldn't get it. I think it's too risky. Way too many problems that could creep up later as a result of the conversion.

Best to purchase a truck that's original, as stock as can be and preferably from a one owner.

george

 

[DVolk]

If you look on the timing cover there should be a tag on the engine write down the numbers and call your local cummins dealer they can tell you, but id say if it runs and drives good and price is right buy it

 

[BDaugherty]

I don't want to be a "downer", but my advice on anything modified outside the norm is pretty consistent: The price has to be right. If it is, I'm all for it. I'm just not paying the same amount for a converted truck as I would for one that came that way. It's very possible that the whole conversion is seamless, but I would do some homework. Run the VIN through carfax and a dealer to see what it came with. Run the CPL through a Cummins dealer to see what you can find. Look everything over to see how clean the swap is. Since it can be done with all factory items, it should be hard to tell that there was ever anything else in there. Remember, the price needs to be right.

 

[Shadrach]

If you can come up with the Engine Serial Number I can tell what engine it is and even what truck it came from, or if it is a Cummins Recon engine. Shad

 

[agff]

Thanks for the offer, I'll see what I can come up with tomorrow on it - may make a deal or just come away with more info to further research.

Any one have a idea on where the odometer reading is stored / kept? can a dash be swapped out like this one without affecting the chassis odometer / display?

I'll be crawling under it for sure to check it over and look for indicators of a slapped together job.

Irony is I found locally a 01. 5 3/4ext longbox thats almost identical to the one I have now with a V8, non 53 block, 100K, same leather interior (without heat though), same color, 6spd HO, long box which is good for the farm - bad for the garage. So I've got another one to look at depending on how the first one pans out.

 

[HBarlow]

That choice would be an easy one for me. The Gen II HO/six speeds were very tough trucks. The Ram 2500 HO/six speed would have the same Dana 80 rear end and the same rear spring pack as the dually minus the overload stack. Gen II Rams had shorter, stiffer rear springs which carried a heavy load, even overload, better than the Gen IIIs because the Gen III springs were longer and designed to provide a softer ride when unloaded. Consistent heavy loading on Gen III pickups, even duallies, result in sagging springs. I don't think the Gen IIs did that. My '01 dually did not and I don't think the 2500s did either. .

 

[BDaugherty]

For once I agree with Harvey. Hard to beat a 2nd gen HO 6spd with 8' bed. the 01. 5 will have rear disc brakes where the 98 will have rear drums. everything else being equal , I would pick the discs in a heartbeat .

 

[agff]

Update: Went and looked at the 98 today... Long story short: Not as indicated.
Details, was supposed to be a crate motor - only thing crate about it was the box it got set into after they pulled it out of some wreck. Motor was a 53 block and had more oil and fluids leaking up front that I had to wipe off in order to read anything on the side of the motor then I've done in a long time. Truck had been repainted (I had asked and was told they didn't think it had been from what they saw). Was a decent paint job, but when there is massive rust staining on the rubber seal between the running boards and the front corner panel behind the wheel... . I wonder how much bondo is under that fresh paint? Box looked like it was used as a dumpster - still had a nice layer of broken cement and brick chunks in it. When they went to start it - it wouldnt due to someone leaving it off of Park (indicator doesn't work I guess)... they popped the hood and the battery cable connections were all cobbled together, and then I also noticed it's been without a cover over the fuse box for many miles based on the grime down in all the relays and fuses.

So... told them thanks but no thanks for the 1. 5 hour waste of time, called the guy with the 2001 6sp only to find out he had decided now not to sell.

Back to square one I guess on the hunt. Thanks for the help and look outs, will be handy when I do find another one to look at.

 

[JR]

Nothing more aggrevating than when someone falsifies information on a truck just to get you out there to look. They were probably banking on the fact that most people dont know their head from a hole in the wall when it comes to buying a vehicle. Many people dont even think about looking under the hood when considering purchasing a used vehicle. If your not in a big hurry and keep your eye out you will find what you are looking for. The problem is the price may be well over what you would expect since youve got some experience with the gas powered 2nd gen, the diesel option is commanding top dollar right now with the 12 and 24 valve and early common rail engines. Good luck shopping

 

[jgillott]

That choice would be an easy one for me. The Gen II HO/six speeds were very tough trucks. The Ram 2500 HO/six speed would have the same Dana 80 rear end and the same rear spring pack as the dually minus the overload stack. Gen II Rams had shorter, stiffer rear springs which carried a heavy load, even overload, better than the Gen IIIs because the Gen III springs were longer and designed to provide a softer ride when unloaded. Consistent heavy loading on Gen III pickups, even duallies, result in sagging springs. I don't think the Gen IIs did that. My '01 dually did not and I don't think the 2500s did either. .

Plus, the 2500's with the camper package would include the oveload springs and the rear sway bar. I had the camper package and the snow plow prep package on my former '01 and I never wished for more spring. I still see it with the new owner and it sits up proud and strong as it always did, even after nearly 13 years of use. Wish I could say that about the springs on my '04.

Update: Went and looked at the 98 today... Long story short: Not as indicated.

Details, was supposed to be a crate motor - only thing crate about it was the box it got set into after they pulled it out of some wreck. Motor was a 53 block and had more oil and fluids leaking up front that I had to wipe off in order to read anything on the side of the motor then I've done in a long time. Truck had been repainted (I had asked and was told they didn't think it had been from what they saw). Was a decent paint job, but when there is massive rust staining on the rubber seal between the running boards and the front corner panel behind the wheel... . I wonder how much bondo is under that fresh paint? Box looked like it was used as a dumpster - still had a nice layer of broken cement and brick chunks in it. When they went to start it - it wouldnt due to someone leaving it off of Park (indicator doesn't work I guess)... they popped the hood and the battery cable connections were all cobbled together, and then I also noticed it's been without a cover over the fuse box for many miles based on the grime down in all the relays and fuses.



So... told them thanks but no thanks for the 1. 5 hour waste of time, called the guy with the 2001 6sp only to find out he had decided now not to sell.



Back to square one I guess on the hunt. Thanks for the help and look outs, will be handy when I do find another one to look at.

Nice trucks are out there, it's just a matter of time before you find the right one.

 

[Road Dog]

In '08 it took me 6 months to find a decent truck but I ended up with a late '02 dually with a full load and 80K km (50K miles). I'm sure I paid too much. The previous owner was downsizing to a SRW and bought a GM which broke down before he got it home.