Looking for 3rd Gen Class V Hitch

[TPappas]

Need a class 5 hitch for new toyhauler. I like the look of the stock hitch (with only receiver showing under bumper) and prefer to not have one hanging real low. I don't want to have two Receivers as this looks goofy to me. Also the stock hitch setup has the bumper mounted to it, I'm guessing for strength???



Is there any stock looking class 5 hitches out there? What do I do with the bumper mounts to the stock hitch if I take it off? Would like to get this worked out before our first outing next week.

 

[mberry]

Your stock hitch should be plenty strong for your new toyhauler. How heavy is it anyway? The stock hitch is a class IV.

 

[TPappas]

I have not actually weighed mine, but I have heard others with the same trailer report an unloaded weight of 9000 lbs with a tongue weight of 1500 lbs.

 

[geusterman]

My fab guy actually had his CTD hitch tear off and twist down with a heavy load of steel on his flatbed trailer. I am cutting the top out and adding another receiver for an extended hitch (under camper) an hope to beef it up. Could do it underneath if was keeping the bumper but ground clearance issue. I believe there are better hitches out there... have to lift bed to install over frame. I would like one. George

 

[AlexWV]

Reese Titan or Draw Tite Tow Beast. With either of them you are going to see a lot more hitch than you do with the stock one because they don't have that bar that curves up and out of sight. With that much tongue weight, if you want to stay within the hitch rating, you have to get one of those AND use a weight distributing hitch.

 

[Scrappy]

the stock hitch is also a frame crossmember if you only want one receiver, you have to buy the non hitch crossmember to replace the hitch. I have a Reese Titan class 5 on mine but it is pretty low and is the solid bar type. I don't believe there is a stock type class 5 hitch, I believe the bends weaken it too much.

 

[Wolffman]

I have the putnam class V hitch and couldn't be happier. I didn't like the set up of the factory hitch so I bought a truck without it and added the putnam. I would do this again in a heartbeat because it is extremely strong and rated for 15,000lbs I believe so I have nothing to worry about.

 

[geusterman]

Wolffman... did you have to raise your bed to put the hitch on? I don't see our trucks on Putnam's site so emailed them. George

 

[TPappas]

Wolffman,



I looked at your pictures and that is the best setup I have seen yet for a class 5 hitch. It looks like your aftermarket bumper is not quite as low as the stock bumper. If I put the same hitch you have on my truck how much of the hitch setup would show under my bumper?



I think I am going to have to cut off the factory receiver leaving the crossmember in place, then add the Putnam hitch so I have increased capacity over the stocker. What do you think?

 

[Wolffman]

geusterman I did not have to raise the bed off. Look at this link to hitch-web.com they have it for sale and pictures

(http://www.hitch-web.com/proDescrip.asp?ProductCode=275393&OID=8)



TPappas, I built the aftermarket bumper myself but I already had the hitch so it made it pretty easy. I used pretty close to the same measurements as the stock rear bumper and My guess would it would stick down maybe a couple of inches because the cross member angles down lower and the bulk of it sits behind the crossmember. I have heard of people cutting the receiver part off and I don't think you would have a problem doing that just call putnam and ask them because I am not completely sure you might have to drill 2 holes in the crossmember for 2 grade 8 bolts to go through but that would be a peice of cake. I highly recommend the hitch to everyone and I haven't had a problem one with it.

 

[Eric_77]

Here is link to a search about hitches that has some discussions of the various options and some install pics.



Hope this works



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/search.php?searchid=632270



FYI I srill have both hitches installed and have yet to use the Class V as the balls I have are only Class IV rated

 

[TPappas]

I have my tongue weight, what do you think????

I bought and used a trailer tongue weight scale. My unloaded tongue weight for my trailer is 1350 lbs. My wife weighs 125 lbs and she went to the front most portion of the inside of the trailer and the tongue weight went up to 1400 lbs. There was also a little less than 1/3 fresh water in it, with the fresh water tank being right in front of the axles. My 20 gallon generator tank is also empty which is behind the axles, so with this full it would help lessen the tongue weight a bit.



I am using 1400 lb. WD bars as well. Do I need to upgrade to a class 5 hitch? I was under the impression from others that my tongue weight may have been as high as 1700 lbs. , but that is not the case. What do you guys think?

 

[geusterman]

Thanks Wolffman. Good stuff and am thinking between your and Eric's experience that this unit comes out UNDER the stock curly bar but NOT under the stock receiver tube (which would have to be whacked). Combining the two hitches would make for some serious towing hook up and frame integrity. TPappas... I don't know your answer. I just pull what is there. I have a gooseneck too. I flunked engineering... but good on intuition. George

 

[AlexWV]

I bought and used a trailer tongue weight scale. My unloaded tongue weight for my trailer is 1350 lbs. My wife weighs 125 lbs and she went to the front most portion of the inside of the trailer and the tongue weight went up to 1400 lbs. There was also a little less than 1/3 fresh water in it, with the fresh water tank being right in front of the axles. My 20 gallon generator tank is also empty which is behind the axles, so with this full it would help lessen the tongue weight a bit.



I am using 1400 lb. WD bars as well. Do I need to upgrade to a class 5 hitch? I was under the impression from others that my tongue weight may have been as high as 1700 lbs. , but that is not the case. What do you guys think?

Well Draw Tite has a heavy class 4 hitch rated at 1200/12000 or 1400/14000 with WD. That one still has a 2" square receiver. But it is still going to look big and bulky like the class 5 compared to the curvy stock one. Personally, I'd get the heaviest hitch I could find and not worry that it didn't look as clean as the stock one.



The thought of losing a trailer does not appeal to me at all even if it is a remote possibility that the lower rated hitch will break. And I like to stay within the ratings.



Besides those big hitches are good if somebody runs into the back of you. So I'd say get one.

 

[ASpathias]

I had a Titan class V hitch and 48" extension on my Chevy. The extension flexed so much I thought it would break at any time. I bought my Dodge without a hitch and was going to put a Titan hitch on it, when I was at a Lance camper dealer I saw a flyer on Torklift hitches and camper hold downs. I told the guy behind the counter, I want this set up. I am pleased with the Torklift Hitch/extension and campers hold downs. I have been using this setup for a year now and my truck bed has no external damage caused by the camper and the hitch does not flex like a diving board. In my opinion, Torque Lift is the only way to go, it look so much stronger than the Titan hitch. If you can't afford the Torklift setup wait until you can afford it.



http://www.torklift.com/superhitch_pictures.htm





P. S. I have photo's, don't know how to upload them.

 

[geusterman]

Good point ASpathias. The dual reciever is necessary for an extension. The SuperHitch is rated at 15,000# by itself which is same as Putnam's Class V. So you may have a Class V now. George

 

[TPappas]

I have ordered the putman class V hitch and should get it in a few days. I called putman and the hitch is rated for 16000/1700 with weight distribution bars. That is plenty for what I need. They also assured me that it will not look much different than the stock hitch does as far as hanging any lower under the truck. When I get in on I will post pics of it for everyone to see.