Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Looking for a 12v auto - what to expect?

[ILIANBG]

Hi everyone. I am looking into 12v auto trucks for a good friend of mine. It will be a work truck, 2wd, 2500, club or quad cab if possible.

We went to look at one 97 auto 2500, had an EGR tube going into the intake, had low miles, ~108000mil. , but suspiciously beaten up bed, engine bay was just washed/cleaned, looked prepped for a sale. I couldn't even see where was the fuel filter. Where is it located? I thought it was same location as on my 02. It was so cramped there- did I miss it? What should I be aware of? The 12v are not very familiar to me. I have read about the dowel pin but other then that-I do not know.

How is the auto in these trucks? How long do they last if maintained with fresh fluid, filter? The truck had trouble starting. It started on the 3rd try and white smoke came out. Is this normal? My friend did not like the truck- bad paint, ugly bed, dents...

We will go and see another one in few days, a 95 auto 2500.

Please give me a few guide lines to help me navigate. Thank you.

Ilian

 

[Bob4x4]

Keep looking,that truck sounds beat

The 94-95 autos were not very robust,96 and up are only slightly better. it is getting harder to find clean 12v s. the only nice ones I hear about are or were owned by older guys

 

[Cosmo]

White smoke is bad.

Fuel filter is in the same location, driver's side of the engine block, toward the rear. Right below it is the mechanical lift pump. Quad cab started as an option in 98, so there are a few quad cab 12-valves (I've got one), but not every 98 is.

EGR would be a Cali emissions thing. I'm not sure what your laws are down there about trucks of this age. If at all possible, I'd look for one without EGR.


The fuel shut-off solenoid and relay are known failure points, but hard starting can be a battery issue or starter issue as well. When I bought my truck wouldn't always energize the shut off solenoid (so the fuel supply to the injection pump was closed) and it would open on the 2nd crank. In my case it was a bad battery that was causing it. Without disconnecting and testing each battery individually they appeared to be fine. I replaced both batteries and also all 4 battery cables as the copper was corroding.



Oh, and as far as the auto goes... what I did, and what I'd recommend doing if you don't know the history on it, was pull it out and rebuild it with good clutches, durability updates, and a billet multi-disc (if cranking the power up at all) torque converter.

 

[ILIANBG]

Thank you guys. Any info helps. Yes, here up to 1997 is no smog check required. 1998 and later- smog required if I understand it correctly. I just did my second smog check a couple months ago. I hate that we need it here#@$%!

Yes, we will look at another one, hopefully non EGR model. Does the auto on the 12v have electronic controls? How expensive a good rebuild is just to have in mind for future plans?

How difficult is to secure the dowel pin? Sorry, too many questions...

 

[champspa]

the fuel filter is toward the rear of the engine down behind the power brakes on my 96 and a bit_h to get to but can be done . the auto is a so-so I've rebuilt mine every 100k but I tow heavy all the time .

 

[Bob4x4]

The 96 and up use more electronics in the trans but not that big a deal. The 180 hp Cali trucks can be dialed up for a much better drivability easily. The Egr is not that bad there is an easy work around. About 3k for a rebuilt trans. If it were me I would do some upgrades to it at that time.

 

[Cosmo]

$3k at a regular transmission shop. My father inlaw rebuilds them for a little over half that much including R&R. A big name built transmission will run you closer to $6k. I've got about $800 into mine, but I was paying wholesale and didn't pay labor.