2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission looking for advice from salesmen n how to deal with salesmen

[BRI7070]

Well I am going shopping this weekend for a 02 2500 4X4 auto long bed and was wondering if any salesmen out here could give me some advice on how to get the best deal for a 02.



Talked to one salesmen today and he was very interested in the fact that I will be trading in an 01 2500 4X4 long bed.

Why is that?

What are the factory incentive that they wont tell me about unless I ask?

What is a good way to figure out a good price on a new 02 this late in the year?



Thanks in advance.

 

[gradylaw]

Educate yourself first. Use the internet to find out all you can about incentives, rebates, spiffs to the salesman ( a kickback directly to the salesperson), etc. Edmunds.com is a good place to start and there are many others. Do not get excited about a particular truck. If you want lots of specific stuff and a particular color and he has that one on the lot, he will play on your emotions and that is his bread and butter. Indifference is your best tool. Just be polite and after you talk a while they figure out you have done your homework. If he won't accept your offer, just say "thanks, have a nice day" and go to another dealer. You will find out fairly quickly after a few dealers exactly how low they can go. Patience and cool heads are the best bet for a good deal because some of those people can drive you nuts if you let them.

Sorry for the novel. JMHO



Good Hunting

 

[1tuffram]

I'm no salesman, but first thing you need is find what the invoice pricing of the truck and options you want. Most good dealers will sell at or slightly above dealer invoice (maybe a few hundred over invoice). Being as 2003 are on the lots I'd bet you can get a 2002 for below dealer invoice. Since dealers are probably eager to move any remaining 2002's I'd refuse to pay such things as dealer mark-ups, dealer prep packages (expensive wax jobs, scotch guard treatments), etc. I'd bet dealers would be willing to give to your demands since the longer a truck sits on thier lot the more it costs them in intrest charges. One of those websites like Edmonds explained this and after so may days a truck sits on the lot the dealer starts loosing money. And since 2003's are on lots it's probably getting harder by the day to sell remaining 2002's. You can find the latest incentives at Dodge's website. The most important thing is to find out what invoice cost is for a truck equipped the way you want!!! If you don't do this you are basically walking into this blind and the dealer will take you for a ride. There are lots of websites (Kelly Blue Book, edmonds, etc) which show both MRSP and dealer invoice pricing for a truck and options. May not be a bad idea to try and get some quotes from several dealers to compare price, plus you can use this for negotiating leverage. Letting the dealer know you have scouted the competition and know what invoice pricing is I think sends a message you are serious, so no messing around with the numbers game. You truely need to do some homework before taking the plunge. Be wary of hiding costs like DOC fee's, prep fees, etc. Sales folks are good for quoting you a fantastic price, then when you sit down to sign all these "other" fees and crap magically appear. I know this first hand and walked out in the middle of signing papers for placing an order.



If you can, deal with the Fleet sales dept. They don't work off commision therefore you get the best deal without all the salesman hassle of dickering about price. My Fleet sales dept gave me a price quote showing MRSP and dealer cost for my truck and all options. They sold it to me at dealer cost plus $250. No hassles, none of the "give me a price and I'll run it by my boss" crap, etc. Heck they did not even want a deposit or require I sign anything holding me liable should I back-out and change my mind. I spec'd out the truck I wanted, they placed the order that day and said they'd call me when they got a VIN # and build date. In my case it was cheaper to pay the local dealers $250 mark-up than to take time off work and travel out-of-state to one of the volume deealers. My local dealer made the sale because of thier honest up-front pricing. There where no surprises, like the other local guy I walked out on (who still came in $200 cheaper, but lost my sale due to thier dishonesty on pricing until they got me in the office).



Don't fall for the trade-in thing!!! They will manipulate the numbers to thier advantage. Typically they will give you what looks like a good price for the new truck and practically give ya squat for your trade. When tring to negotiate this way it gets confusing real fast and is hard to keep all the numbers in perspective. Then they further cloud things with all thier mumble-jumble talk making it sound like your are getting a "fair" deal on both accounts. It is best to not even mention trade until you have established the lowest possible price for the new truck ON PAPER (not verbal, which they can then go back on), then mention "oh yea, I have a trade". Honestly you will get more from your old vehicle by selling it yourself. When I was recently shopping for my 2002 truck, only 1 of the 7 dealers asked if I had a trade. I think most new car dealers don't want to hassle with used cars. They can probably make more from the 3% holdback's they recieve from the factory for selling you a new truck than trying to sell an old used vehicle.



Sorry I got so long winded.

 

[Whitmore]

Like they say, do your reasearch and find cost on what you want and then go to the dealer and say " I am buying a new truck today and you get to decide if I am buying it here or not " that will get their attention real quick.



cheers, Kevin

 

[DPKetchum]

trading

I've worked in dealer service depts for years,I'm no car salesman but I find the comment that dealers don't care about a trade interesting. The ones i've worked for cared a lot for your trade. They made BIG money and profit's on used. Claimed USED car and truck was 60% of the entire sales dept profits. Used can't be shopped like new,it's a one and only. Try to find two of same auto's equiped the same way. But any how with dealers I did'nt know If I have a real cocky salesperson with snake oil wait on me I tell them if front no B. S. Or i'll walk or want the sales manager. Or better yet I'll tell them That I want to know who their new guy is the one that just started the day before etc. ,In another words that guy can play nice or I'll see that another guy gets comminsion.

 

[kluther]

read obove and follow there advise. i work at a import dealer and hear sales poeple gloating about ripping there heads off and making them feel good about the whole deal. good luck ken

 

[Shrimpy]

I can't believe that those of you who trade often don't use this method. I had a casual friend who was a finance guy at a cheby dealership, get drunk and tell me the way to trade and come out. He said to have the price you are willing to pay for the new vehicle set in stone in your head. Then check and see what a REASONABLE price would be for your trade, and add 1500 to 2500 to it. Now take the difference of the two prices (New price minus trade plus any owed on trade = cash out of pocket) and tell the salesperson you will pay your trade plus X dollars for the new one.



This typically will send the sales guy running, but it lets them know you have done your homework. REMEMBER, don't let the salesperson run the negotiations by getting you side tracked on low monthly payments or look how much we are paying for your trade. Have the bottom line figured out before you go in and all else will fall into place.



P. S. If you use in house finance look for an extra 250 to 400 off the deal because of the override they get.



Good luck... ... ... .

 

[Pit Bull]

Been there done that recently

I just traded a week ago. Traded my 2000 3500QC CTD auto 4x4 with 55K miles (it had everything but leather on it) for the Truck in my Sig. I paid $25K for my 2000 13 months and 25K miles ago and they gave me $23K tradein. The insurance company gave me $2800 for the hail damage to my 2000 last spring and I did not have it fixed. Net, I am ahead $800 on the tradein. My new truck listed for $36K and I paid $28. 5K. This was invoice minus the $3K DC is kicking back to the dealers on the 2002's. I really did not think the dealer would do this deal, they really want to move the 2002's. Good luck.

 

[dieselshu]

Buying a ne truck

Try this site it has some interesting info.

http://www.carbuyingtips.com/scams.htm#Scam1

 

[Fireman Dave]

1tuffram is right on the money!

Originally posted by 1tuffram

If you can, deal with the Fleet sales dept. They don't work off commision therefore you get the best deal without all the salesman hassle of dickering about price. My Fleet sales dept gave me a price quote showing MRSP and dealer cost for my truck and all options. They sold it to me at dealer cost plus $250. No hassles, none of the "give me a price and I'll run it by my boss" crap, etc. Heck they did not even want a deposit or require I sign anything holding me liable should I back-out and change my mind. I spec'd out the truck I wanted, they placed the order that day and said they'd call me when they got a VIN # and build date. In my case it was cheaper to pay the local dealers $250 mark-up than to take time off work and travel out-of-state to one of the volume deealers. My local dealer made the sale because of thier honest up-front pricing. There where no surprises

This is exactly what I did, and it worked just like 1tuffram says. The Edmunds.com site helped me a lot with these maneuvers. Bypassing the salesperson was the key to getting a good deal and no BS. I shopped 3 dealers this way. They were all within $30. on their quotes. I went with the local guy - who I knew and wanted to buy it from in the first place.



Good luck!

 

[Boost]

Ive sold at both a Chevy and Dodge dealer. My best advise would be to do your homework. Know what tradein and retail for your trade are. Find out what invoice is for the truck your looking at. If the dealer has a "market adjustment" sticker added on to MSRP, refuse to work numbers off of that price. Shop several different dealers. Some dealers will work retail(MSRP) to retail(high book) or wholesale(invoice) to wholesale(tradein). Some want to sell you at retail and give you wholesale for your trade. Walk away from these. Dont expect a dealer to sell it to you at invoice and give you retail book for your trade, but if they do then jump on that deal it will problably be the best deal you will see. Working with the fleet manager or sales manager doesnt always work. Remember these guys got to the position of manager by putting in there time on the sales floor and excelling. They are usually very good at what they do, making money for the dealership. Some of my biggest deals were "spoons" given to me by the managers. Deals already worked out just needing delivery to the customer. After I got out of car sales and wanted my new truck, I shopped 6 dealers, always telling them I was shopping prices and wanted there best price. After six different deals, I went to the lowest one and gave then an offer $3k lower then they had first proposed. Ended up splitting the difference, and saving $4500 from the highest price I was given. Be firm, but not rude, and you will save alot of money. Good Luck!!



Rob

 

[RADdodge]

No salesman here! But I thought I’d add this option I didn’t see mentioned (sorry if it was).



I was in the market for a Jeep. I couldn’t find one with the options I wanted on a lot within 300 miles. I decided to order one. I e-mailed the Fleet manger of 14 dealerships. The results were very interesting. Two dealers matched what I was willing to pay. I bought the Jeep from the closest dealer.



I was ready to order the 3500 Quad Cab when I picked up my Jeep. I had already done the same thing for the 3500. I showed the dealer whom I bought the Jeep from the quote (his quote was $750 more), he was willing to match it. So I bought it from him. Emails saved a lot of hassle and not having to deal with car salesmen. Wish you success!

 

[Big_Daddy_T]

Knowledge is power. research research research. The best money I ever spent was the 25 bucks I spent for the book How to buy a car for complete dummies. Awesome. I highly recommend it even to you hardcore buyers. It might suprise you. If you learn one thing that saves you 500 bucks the book has paid for itself 20 times over. I tend to save about 4 or 5 grand every purchase. whereas I was a sheep to the sheering before I read it. Ive been quoted 5 grand under msrp on every ctd ive priced. I ended up going with a used one for 5700 under high book. And it had 4 grand in aftermarket on it. do the math.

The most important thing to remember is that you are the costumer and they are one of many dealers. Buy what you want ,dont let them sell to you unless they give you what you ask for, price and all. Walk out if they put you in the pressure cooker. If they want to practice high pressure sales let em do it to someone else. Take a snack and something to read. A friend with a level head helps too. dont tell them what you expect to pay. dont sayif you intend to trade. and dont dress up. Dress plain. They dont need to know how much you make just what you are going to pay. DONT GIVE THEM A CHECK OR YOUR LICENSE TO HOLD WHILE YOU TEST DRIVE. I buy used because of the incredible amount of depreciation in the first 2 years. Let someone else eat the first 20k. It costs more than the next 50k. Almost new is new enough for me. My 2 year old grand prix cost almost half of the original purchase price. Im not trying to keep up with the jones'.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Big_Daddy_T



I buy used because of the incredible amount of depreciation in the first 2 years. Let someone else eat the first 20k. It costs more than the next 50k. Almost new is new enough for me.

I agree with this normally, but they are giving away the leftover 2002's. I paid $7,500 under list and my tradein netted me $800 more than I paid for my 2000 after driving it for over 25K miles Every deal has to be evaluated on its own merits. I say just keep an open mind and like Big_Daddy_T said "Knowledge is Power".

 

[DPKetchum]

Times have changed and may not stay this way. Just a short while back there was no discount's on diesel's at all and could'nt keep new one's on lot. I noticed the dealer near me has several two-four and dually's sitting on lot. 2003 model's,this wasn'nt happening two years ago and they would'nt deal on them eaither

 

[JGK]

What everyone else is saying (research Edmonds, Kelly Blue Book, etc. on line). Edmonds is an excellent resource on how to go about buying a vehicle. I've used their advice and done well.



Just a couple of points not already mentioned. 1. Edmonds used car prices, I've heard, are based on a a nation-wide average. Kelly Blue Book is more regional so may be more realistic for where you live. 2. When you've decided to go in and seriously arm wrestle with the sales folks about a new truck, do so about a half hour before closing on a Friday or Saturday night. Be prepared to take as long as it takes. They want to go home so you can maybe use that to your advantage.



One other thing. I've usually gotten my own financing. But I've heard they make a little when they finance it, so you may get a little better deal. Go with it but plan to refinance it your own way (if it is better for you) in the next week.



Hope my advice wasn't too late! Good luck.



JK

 

[duaneparks]

Originally posted by JGK

Go with it but plan to refinance it your own way (if it is better for you) in the next week.

I tried this trick, but it ended up that my re-financing source wanted to treat the brand new truck as a used truck since it had already been titled (but not yet even funded from the first financing source!)



Anyway, needless to say I pushed for a good interest rate after the numbers were figured out and got the truck I wanted for what I wanted to pay. It was a fair deal all around.



HTH.



Duane

 

[KMeek]

I have friends that sell new and used cars for a living. At least here in Montana it is the sale of used cars where dealers make their money. Almost all sophisticated buyers know about invoice pricing and working off that price. I have always first been asked what I have to trade. And like others have said, you will almost always get more for your truck by selling it yourself than what you will get in trade. I always say that it is a cash deal. Once I get a written cash price I ask what they will give me in trade for my outfit. It is THEN that you will see how badly beat up you get by trading----deduct the trade value off the cash price and you will be shocked. Dealers only want to take a trade by working off the MSRP. I would be surprised if you can't get a new 2002 for at least $2,000-3,000 off of invoice.



Dealers can make $1-2,000 per vehicle off of used vehicles if new and in good shape. They can rarely make that off of a new vehicle. The secret is not to fall in love with any one truck--then you end up trading in your current vehicle because you are afraid the vehicle you want will be sold before you can sell your current vehicle. As someone else said--INDIFFERENCE is the key.