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Looking for good MPG/Power combo on 93 Auto...HELP!

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fan/clutch removal

New Owner--Few Problems; fuel leak, no speedo, loose steering

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OK, I have a 93 W350 single wheel 3. 54 auto, 82K, trans was supposedly just rebuilt, and looks like it from underneath. I used to have an early 91 W350, 3. 07, 727 w/ 90K and that truck would run rings around the 93, a 92 I used to own, and my 5 sp 95. That truck moved! Got great MPG too, low 20's combined. All of these trucks I speak of are/were stock.

My 93 I have now I can't even make it smoke if I stand on it. I'm putting guages on this week, and plan on ordering a Stan's headers 4" exhaust. I don't need a race truck, I'll be pulling a 5-6K# open trailer on occasion and don't want to be scared about EGT's. What can I do to achieve the power/economy of my 91? I was thinking about 190's and turning my fuel screw in one turn. Was going to leave my 18. 5 CM housing on for now, I think the 4" exhaust and more fuel will help spool? How much timing should I run? Was thinking about setting it to the non IC spec of 1. 4, could it take more reliably? Am I thinking too conservatively w/ all of this? Should I be thinking POD's? I'm trying to spend about $1100 on all of this, I already have autometer boost/EGT/trans temp, and the exhaust I'm buying is about 500. So I have about 600 left for injectors and whatever. 16 CM housing? Valve body for trans? Let me know what you guys think, thanks-Nick
 
all you need

The early non intercooled trucks were much faster than the intercooled trucks. The intercooled trucks had to meet emission requirements the early trucks did not. The intercooler actually slowed the trucks down but were added to get the emissions down. The only benefit we get from the I/C is lower egt's



Heres what you do to get your 93 to run more like the non i/c trucks

Call piers in canada and order the following parts,

1) 16cm turbo housing

2) 190 injectors

3) pyrometer

4) boost gauge

5) tachometer



Ispro gauges are the best bang for the buck.



A) Set pump timing to 16 to 17 degrees. If you do not have the tool set to do the timing you can just rotate the pump clockwise 1/8th of an inch clockwise

to get in the ball park. Note... ... . you must crack loose the fuel lines on the pump to be able to rotate the pump without bending the lines.



B) On the side of the pump closest to the engine you will find the main pressure adjustment screw. It will have a cone shaped antitamper cap over it.

knock the cap off with a hammer and a long screw driver. Once exposed loosen the jam nut and turn the screw in one full turn... ... If it still does not smoke at all go to the ve pump info thread on this site and follow the instructions for the star wheel and fuel pin adjustments... Keep in mind that messing with those adjustments will hurt your MPG.

Also keep in mind that if you turn up the power much more than I have described you will end up killing the trans and rear differential !

If you have trouble you are welcome to call me if you like... . Terry





Niki said:
OK, I have a 93 W350 single wheel 3. 54 auto, 82K, trans was supposedly just rebuilt, and looks like it from underneath. I used to have an early 91 W350, 3. 07, 727 w/ 90K and that truck would run rings around the 93, a 92 I used to own, and my 5 sp 95. That truck moved! Got great MPG too, low 20's combined. All of these trucks I speak of are/were stock.

My 93 I have now I can't even make it smoke if I stand on it. I'm putting guages on this week, and plan on ordering a Stan's headers 4" exhaust. I don't need a race truck, I'll be pulling a 5-6K# open trailer on occasion and don't want to be scared about EGT's. What can I do to achieve the power/economy of my 91? I was thinking about 190's and turning my fuel screw in one turn. Was going to leave my 18. 5 CM housing on for now, I think the 4" exhaust and more fuel will help spool? How much timing should I run? Was thinking about setting it to the non IC spec of 1. 4, could it take more reliably? Am I thinking too conservatively w/ all of this? Should I be thinking POD's? I'm trying to spend about $1100 on all of this, I already have autometer boost/EGT/trans temp, and the exhaust I'm buying is about 500. So I have about 600 left for injectors and whatever. 16 CM housing? Valve body for trans? Let me know what you guys think, thanks-Nick
 
Be carefull with the timming, I did mine 1/8 of an inch and knocked off 4lbs of boost :{ and my truck ran like a three legged horse. So watch your gauges :rolleyes: and take it on lots of drives inbetween mods Oo. . Just a warning with the Isspro pyro I've been trying to get mine working for about 2 months and still no reading :confused: ,Spent more on shipping than the thing is worth.
 
I've had my timing at 1. 7 for the past 3 years or so. Getting the new head now and told the mechanic to back off to 1. 6 to see if it made any difference. Lots of folks are running 1. 5, stock for the 93 is 1. 25.
 
I rotated the afc cone to the "deep" side on my truck and my work truck. It really woke both of them up. I also turned the smoke screw 1/2 turn on mine. My truck was just like yours, it wouldn't smoke for nothin, now it emits a haze when in it and a puff or two of black when shifting. My best mileage so far is 18. 7mpg mixed driving in my town. Two weekends ago in Idaho, I got 23. 7mpg driving 2 lanes and back roads. I do not count this as it is a fluke and I've not seen anything near that kind of mpg in my area.

Travis. .
 
Geezzz guys... . I've been running the Isspro pyro in my truck forever... . my first install was back in about '95 and I changed out to a newers style rougly 1 1/2 year back and it's just hummin along no problem.

If you are having trouble give us a call at PDR... . I think we have some new info/instructions on the connections/wiring that may help you all out.

We have installed numerous pyro's with no problem. I think the older instructions had a misquote/misprint/malfunction in them so don't give up on them just yet.



pb.....
 
Niki -

Well I can give you my thoughts for what their worth. When I first got my 93 auto, I thought for sure the transmission was toast. Could rev its heart out and just no power going to the ground. Power felt good, but I got a TCI torque converter and was amazed at how much better the truck felt. It would now hold speed on hills. But now I wanted more power, and where did I find it, why at PDR during Dynomania 2003 of course :-laf .

I drove my rig up from California right into PDR's shop. Met Pastor Bob, Nascar Mark, Harry, Piers, and the rest of the gang. Great folks, and in two hours time we had removed the stock turbo, injectors, and exhaust collar, and put back in place an HX-35 turbo, 16cm collar, and a set of POD's. Nascar Mark set the timing up a bit and tweaked the pump, and told me to go for a ride. - I was amazed - the truck felt like it had grown a second set of cylinders. On the dyno, before I went up to PDR, I put down 135 hp. Fairly stock. After the mods, on Piers' dyno, I put down 253 hp and 630 tq. I DOUBLED my power for $1100! Hands down the simplest and most power increase for the money I have ever encountered. And the sickness just got worse when I started looking at the twin-turbo setups they had in their shop.

First rate guys up there. A bit crazy and that's good because that matches my own personality, but Piers, Bob, Mark Harry and the gang know their stuff, won't sell you something you don't need, and back their work and their word.

If you mod the engine you will absolutely need a better converter, period. The power will not get to the ground. Any aftermarket converter is better than stock, and some of the top names are Suncoast, DTT, ATS, TCI, and there are others, but those stick out in my mind.

ANyways, happy mod'ing, and keep the shiny side up.

- Sam
 
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