Looking for REAL invoice prices...

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

3.73 vs. 4.10 for towing

Duramax Lemon ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have been researching like a sonofagun and have come up with all sorts of 'invoice' prices on '04 trucks...



Anyone have a REAL factory invoice price? I'm sick of the salespeople writing a # on a piece of paper and telling me that is the invoice price. :mad: :rolleyes:



Some places even claim to go below the 'invoice' price on their trucks... . but then do a bait and switch with the #'s



I'm beginning to think that I should just look at used ones... . or start looking for leftover '03 trucks.



Matt - getting closer to caving in... and researching the HECK out of the 3rd Gen trucks...
 
The only "real" invoice prices are at the dealer. From what the DC sales guys say, DC does not issue invoice prices to anyone other than a franchised dealer. That being said, there are many sources for "invoice" prices, like Edmunds.com, but who knows if they are accurate or not. They probably are within a couple hundred bucks, and on a $40,000 truck, thats pretty darn accurate. Most of the time the other "invoice" prices do not include all the advertising and add on fees that can run into hundreds of dollars.

Dealers can and do sell under invoice because of dealer holdback (that is listed near the bottom of the invoice and is HBX,XXX. XX) and as I recall, is two or three percent of the MSRP. The DC employee price is listed as EPXX,XXX. XX on every invoice and excludes the advertising and misc fees.

There are also dealer incentives from time to time that the dealer can dip into. There are also volume incentives the dealer can earn IF he hits a sales objective. Some dealers will dip into these, but most will not.

But the bottom line is, the dealer is not going to stay in business if he can't make a profit. That is why he he is in business. So you need to agree on a price that is fair to all parties. If the dealer thinks it is fair, then he will sell it, if not he will send you packing. Many times you see posts where the dealer would not sell, and they went and purchased the "identical" truck for less. Some times that might be true, but in other cases the second dealer was just a little smarter than the purchaser, and he sold the "identical" truck and still made a comfortable profit.
 
I used the invoice prices on www.kbb.com



I had 2 different dealers copy their invoice price list for me and the #'s matched exactly what kbb gave me, except for some stupid reigonal charges that were a few hundred dollars.
 
I found that the invoice prices on the web at edmunds.com and cars.com matched the dealer invoice also. Note that in some markets there are charges on the invoice for advertising. The dealer has to pay these, so expect that you will need to pay them also. I ordered my truck from a dealer in Denver. There is a $500 MSRP ($440 invoice) regional discount in the SW markets, I assume to offset the additional advertising fees. In any case, the regional discount offset the advertising almost to the dollar. Last time I checked, the invoice pricing on the internet sites had not been adjusted for the slightly higher price of the Cummins 600.
 
Originally posted by sag2



But the bottom line is, the dealer is not going to stay in business if he can't make a profit. That is why he he is in business. So you need to agree on a price that is fair to all parties. If the dealer thinks it is fair, then he will sell it, if not he will send you packing. Many times you see posts where the dealer would not sell, and they went and purchased the "identical" truck for less. Some times that might be true, but in other cases the second dealer was just a little smarter than the purchaser, and he sold the "identical" truck and still made a comfortable profit.
sag2: hit the nail on the head (IMO) especially with this last paragraph. I feel that your best bet would be to find a high volume sales dealership to get the best deal. I say best deal, the best for you that is, your still going to get it in the south end if you did know the true factory to dealer price they pay. My truck MSRP for $38,265. 00 and after back an fourth dickering they brought out the piece of paper and showed me this is what we have in the truck $34,000. 00 bottom line this is what we paid for it from the factory. I told them I don't by that "basically calling them liar's. Ended up getting the truck for $31,800. 00 and they still made a good profit or they never would have traded. You would not believe the amount of people that walk in and only want to know "How much will my payments be" . A dealership loves those kind of people, they hate people like me that give them trouble. People don't fall in love with those vehicles, like my Dad always said there's always another one down the road. :-laf
 
invoice price is not the whole story. i used kbb.com and it was almost penny for penny equal to what the DC invoice price was. HOWEVER, the first dealer i went to said he had to add an "advertisement" charge that was almost $600 and that it was not negotiable. needless to say i went to another dealer. watch out for all the "add ons" after the initial price. prep, title and plate, documentation fees and others are added at the end. some are negotiable. tax is not. there is at least one member here who is a DC salesman and will treat you right if you are ok with taking delivery at his store. wish i would have joined TDR about 1 month earlier so that i would have found this out before buying mine. i am not unhappy with my deal or my salesman, but i would have liked to weigh the additional option before buying.



by the way, turned over 800 miles on the truck yesterday. i am still convinced that this IS the right truck. i am constantly looking for places (read as excuses) to drive it! haven't got the wife to commit to TIM yet.



jim
 
Holset-- I've had several dealers print the 'invoice' and give it to me. The easiest I've found and it turns out to be almost exact every time is to take MSRP x 10. 5%. Take that amount off of MSRP and you have invoice before all the holdback, incentives, etc. One invoice in my hands now has MSRP of $40,100 and invoice at $35,842. Hope this helps a bit.
 
Holset,



If the truck is loaded multiply the MSRP

by 12 Per Cent (. 12) if the truck is not loaded

multiply it by 11 percent. With the 12 percent

you will be a few dollars under invoice, if

the dealer won't take it, add 200 dollars to

your price. (11%x40,000=$4400 off MSRP)

When you come up with your price tell him you

will not pay any additional charges except

tag transfer and the sales tax. They will try

to add $398. 00 for paperwork etc if you allow

them. Also ask about 2 years of free lube for

filling out the Chrysler Customer survey that

you will be receiving, promising them that you

will give them some "attaboys".

Now if you have them bring in a truck from some

other dealer, your deal is busted for the "holdback money" or at least half of it stays

with the other dealer.

I did this with a young sales manager on a Sat.

afternoon and he took it in 10 mins, in addition

I received my $2,000 rebate. He even gave me

$700 more than anyone else for my old 4cyl. jeep.



Sanders
 
My 04 had MSRP 37,555 and invoice 33,692. Subtract 2500 rebate and 500 farm bureau, add sales tax. In some places, add document fee and title fee. Some dealers will go into holdback ($1103 on my Ram), some won't. At that point, you need to weigh in convenience, existence of the correctly optioned truck on the lot (and one that passes your checks of clutch, shifter, engine smoothness, vibration, etc. ), dealer reputation, etc. You might be better off getting a couple more or fewer options and buying locally where the dealer is good and you know an excellent service tech, even if the discount is not quite as steep. You might find that when warranty time comes, the dealer is more helpful to a loyal, repeat customer than to someone who saved a few hundred buying elsewhere.



When you buy out-of-state, check the states' policies on sales tax. You might end up paying taxes in both states.



Best wishes on your search.
 
Last edited:
You might find that when warranty time comes, the dealer is more helpful to a loyal, repeat customer than to someone who saved a few hundred buying elsewhere.



Words of wisdom right there. I'll pay a few bucks more, and get good service down the road.
 
Whoa!



I never expected this kind of response...



I won't single anyone out as all it would do is waste time and eat bandwidth - but you all have given me very good advice.



I justified paying $100 or so more for my TIG machine in hopes of being treated well by the shop. It payed off in a HUGE way... they gave me discounts on all sorts of stuff.



I have been overlooking this scenario of slightly overpaying because the difference between buying a TIG machine and buying a truck is HUGE. I'm the type of person that is ALWAYS skeptical of car sales representatives. I have heard way too many horror stories, and way too many good stories... . and I don't want to end up being violated in my southern region.



IF I buy a brandy-new truck, this would be my first new vehicle... and only the second vehicle I have ever bought from a dealership (I bought the VW from a used-car hawker... ). All other vehicles I have ever bought were thoroughly used and abused and were all private-sale. There's a lot to be said about buying vehicles through both channels... and I'm not quite sure I get the warm and fuzzy feeling when I walk into any dealership... as I know there's a commission hanging over the head of pretty much everyone I will talk to.



I'm being especially cautious and skeptical during this researching phase because this is my first new truck... . AND I tend to get giddy when I see a 3rd Gen... . even if it is just sitting in a parking lot. :-laf The first salesperson I talked to really picked up on that... and pressured me into buying a truck on the spot. I'm really glad I was smart enough to walk out that night. I even declined a brochure... because I knew all I would do is pour over it and memorize it... . and end up drooling on it. :-laf



The research continues... . and thank you for your comments. You all have offered some valuable information that will help lead me down the path...



Matt
 
Like others. . suggest starting with your new states DMV office and see what are the laws re. importing a new rig into your state. .

tax penality, registration issues [must have so many miles ?? . . like komiefornia] ...

then after that lesson. . internet shop and have printed "offers" in hand when shopping dealers. . Places like Melton, Dave Smith,tommygun ect ect. .

then of course do the internet build up on the sites and get the "invoice price"... deal from knowledge and you be much better off in the dealerships.



I was able to come within $200. 00 of the lowest internet price here in Calif... . it would have cost me additional $$ for plane fair and time/travel to go out of state and + tax penalityies and having to register out of state. . so was worth it to buy here.



HOMEWORK HOMEWORK HOMEWORK Matt my friend LOL
 
In my experience "Fighting Chance" http://www.fightingchance.com/ has the best most accurate info. For $30 you can order a packet that lists all codes, invoice, and sticker price. They also provide you with a host of other very useful info. I have used them successfully on 2 occasions. The first time I used the "fax attack" method, never even spoke with a salesman and got a super deal. The fleet manager couldn't figure out how I got all their prices. I ordered their info for the 2004. 5 and am using it now to get a new truck.



Good Luck! Paul
 
Paul:



I checked out that website and read all of their information. Thanks for the heads-up!



WI is pretty lenient on most vehicle registration rules... but I better check that out in case I buy out of state...



Matt
 
Paul:



As an example... if I were a resident of Massachusetts (which I used to be... . ) and bought a vehicle (new or used... ) in New Hampshire (a no sales-tax state... )... I would pay the tax in Massachusetts (5% of BLUE-BOOK value... not what the Bill of Sale says... ) when I went to register the vehicle in MA.



For all I know WI could nail me with fees or something like what "willyslover" mentioned on the page before this... if I bought the truck out of state.



Matt
 
Matt,



Thanks for the info. I hadn't really thought about that stuff. Seeing as today is a holiday I should call the DMV in WA tomorrow cause I'm on the verge of buying today from out of state. Time to get nervous?



Paul
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top