Loose airbox nuts?

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My airbox is loose like the nuts have backed off on the underside. Problem is I have a 4x4 which has the plastic fender liners so I can't figure out a way to get to them without removed the liner. Anyone have any tips to get up there?



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's

 

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My '95s have no nuts. The fender has plasic grommets,the airbox has posts that snap into them. The airbox can be removed by pulling straight up. I would think the newer rigs are the same,pull it off and see whats going on,maybe a broken post?

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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Boy do I feel stupid!! There are studs coming out of the fenderwell and the nuts are inside of the airbox (covered in rubber) with a knob on the top you can turn. I just tightened those up by hand and she's all tight now! Thanks illflem.

-Steve

 

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<font color=blue>Did it start knocking this time when ya fired it up? #ad

 

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I feel stupid now too. I never found the nuts,just figured it was a loose fit,thanks Steve.

 

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No knockin' kat! Actually what happened was driving down to Scheids we got stuck in a number of traffic jams and just off of idle I'd get this vibration noise (like when a heat shield spot weld busts loose). I'd never heard it before because I usually have the stereo blazing, etc. But I had the radio off cause we were yacking on the CB. It's all gone now!

-Steve

 

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Steve, the plastic "nuts" inside the air box can become stripped very easily. The Dodge part number for these (qty. 3 required) is: 53030406 (retainer). This does not include the rubber grommet at each "nut" location. I just purchased three of these myself... it's more important that these work as intended when using the Air Bulldog air box base (more weight and leverage working against these "nuts").

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Bypass, Optima yellow tops, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Aeroquip braided s/s fuel lines, Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

 

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When I added the Pyscotty, I dropped the fender liner enough to reach in to remove the stock airbox bolts. Did not have to take it all the way out. I use a "V" shaped pry bar to pop the plastic plugs out that hold the fender liner. If you strip one or if you need to replace any of the plugs, go to Napa. One of the Napa dealers I buy from has a big Balkamp displace. All kinds of plastic clips, plugs, etc. Cheap too! They have the big round ones that hold the hood insulation fast also. (Dodge dealer could not find them for me. )