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Lorenz suspension install tips?

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I’m going to be installing the Lorenz leveling kit this weekend on my rig and I’m planning on getting it aligned afterwards. Anything special I should tell the alignment shop (i. e “more caster” or “less caster”, etc. ).



Also…anyone have any tips (already know about unbolting the track bar from the top bracket) to make the install go smoother? Do you recommend installing the springs first and then the longer end links or vice versa?
 
I’m going to be installing the Lorenz leveling kit this weekend on my rig and I’m planning on getting it aligned afterwards. Anything special I should tell the alignment shop (i. e “more caster” or “less caster”, etc. ).



Also…anyone have any tips (already know about unbolting the track bar from the top bracket) to make the install go smoother? Do you recommend installing the springs first and then the longer end links or vice versa?
I've never had mine aligned since having the Lorenz kit. Perfect tire wear,etc. I'm afraid an alignment shop will goof it up.
 
Yeah, I have a few tips.

Unbolt the end links before you jack the truck up and let the front axle droop. If you don't the nuts/washers will come flying off with such force that you'll have to look for a while to find the pieces.

When you take the stock coils out, there is a rubber disc that goes between the top of the coil and the factory coil bucket. Make sure to take this rubber out, and install on top of the new coils.

Get a partner to help you.

Finally, don't get too crazy at all enjoying your new kit, or you'll end up with a bent front axle housing.

Have fun!!!

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--Eric
 
Eric,what is the heat gun for ?

:-laf Just because I'm good at causing more problems for myself!

The wheels I went with have a 5. 71" backspacing, which probably would've allowed the 37" Toyo's to clear fine; however with the fender flares on there, I couldn't even turn the steering wheel half a turn!

I ended up doing some fender trimming, and had to use the heat gun to "mold" the inner fender to fit again. Then, I had to slit the fender flares, heat them up to re-mold them, and use a plastic welding kit with ABS rod to patch things up again.

It turned out really well, and kept me from having to buy a set of control arms. All your offroading pictures pursuaded me to go with a set of the Carli Long Travel air bags. So, the money I didn't have to spend on the control arms went toward the Carli's, Air Zenith compressor, 5-gallon tank, dakota digital gauges for the bags, etc! Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have it together...

--Eric
 
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I just ordered the Bilstein 5100 System last night. I am planning on putting 325/65 17 tires on. Will they rub at all? I'll be keeping the stock rims.
 
Nice truck.

Yeah, I have a few tips.



Unbolt the end links before you jack the truck up and let the front axle droop. If you don't the nuts/washers will come flying off with such force that you'll have to look for a while to find the pieces.



When you take the stock coils out, there is a rubber disc that goes between the top of the coil and the factory coil bucket. Make sure to take this rubber out, and install on top of the new coils.



Get a partner to help you.



Finally, don't get too crazy at all enjoying your new kit, or you'll end up with a bent front axle housing.



Have fun!!!



#ad




#ad






--Eric
Very nice looking truck by the way. Wheels and tires look fine.
 
I just ordered the Bilstein 5100 System last night. I am planning on putting 325/65 17 tires on. Will they rub at all? I'll be keeping the stock rims.



The 325's may kiss the control arms on full lock. Keep an eye on those 5100's for rust



Bob
 
Got the Lorenz kit in this weekend along with the new tires and wheels. Truck looks WAY better and it rides better. I also spent about 3 hours on Sunday washing it and cleaning out the inside…now it’s raining…. that’s how my luck goes. It ended up lifting the front end about 3” so now it sits more or less in line with the rear. My passenger side tire does rub a bit on the inside of the fender well when at full lock towards passenger…nothing a little trimming won’t cure though.



Overall install went pretty smoothly. Only issues I had were the new sway bar end links were a PITA to install and the truck does pull to the passenger side a bit now. Not sure why though. The two best tires (as far as tread depth goes) are up front and they are pretty close to the same, but the drivers side does have a bit more tread. Tire pressures are the same too. Guess I need an alignment. Other than adjusting the tie-rod to change “toe in and toe out” what other front end alignment adjustments can be made to these things?



I’ll see if I can get some pictures posted up later this week.
 
Winch Ready again.

Thanks for the words. It'd look alot better with some of those Winch Ready bumpers you found! Maybe one day...



--Eric
I was impressed with Dixie@WinchReady's product knowledge. As mentioned earlier, Winch Ready distributed Road Armor until recently. She's chuck full 'o bumper knowledge. :)
 
So I took the rig to Big-o tires this morning to have it aligned. After fussing with it for about 45 minutes the guy came in and said that it’s as good as he can get. Said that the caster adjustment was already maxed out and that there is no camber adjustment. They adjusted the toe a little bit, dropped my air pressure to 35psi at all 4 corners and took $110 from me. I get in the truck and drive off…. feels exactly the same as before... still pulling to the right. :mad:



They gave me the alignment printout sheet and here’s the numbers:



Front left

Camber: Specified range -. 3* to . 8* Mine: -. 6*

Caster: Specified range 4* to 5. 5* Mine: 3. 6*

Toe: Specified range . 05* to . 15* Mine: . 08*

SAI: no range Mine: 13. 7*

Included Angle: no range Mine: 13. 1*



Front Right

Camber: Specified range -. 3* to . 8* Mine: -. 5*

Caster: Specified range 4* to 5. 5* Mine: 3. 7*

Toe: Specified range . 05* to . 15* Mine: . 06*

SAI: no range Mine: 13. 2*

Included Angle: no range Mine: 12. 7*



Cross camber: specified range -. 5* to . 5* Mine: -. 1*

Cross caster: specified range -. 5* to . 5* Mine: 0. 0*

Total Toe: specified range . 1* to . 3* Mine . 14*



So what the hell does all this mean…besides the fact that I paid $110 and really got nothing. When I look at this it reads like I should have some more caster adjustment available? What’s next?
 
The big Toyos almost always amplify the Dodge tendency to rt drift. Go to a more knowledgable shop and install an ofset ball joint.



Bob
 
You need more caster, at 3. 7 your not into the min settings yet.

To off set the crown, it's been my experience that you need . 4* more caster on the passenger side.
 
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