Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
the fix that works
Low cost ,simple to do.
Now copy after reading have been postint this for Mo's/years and past on to other non members when i pass a D/Chevy owner i can tel buy the eng(if running) if it is a auto or stick.
First if your unit is a aprox build date of mid to late july/early august 98 when you remove the rear cover you will find what is called the split nut with a set screw/ refered to the as a clamping bolt... ie. the factory fix.
I field tested it pre production and it preformed better Aprox 18,000 miles. In my case,I will add I installed a new main shaft to spec's for a fair test and it Held longer than the nut installed in 96,(first factory try at a repair) build date was late may.
When mine let go in aug of 96 i reused the flat face nut that i drove to a shop (not d/c) and got the use of there hoist and mech/tools to help.
I sent the parts man after a can of starting fluid and a small botttle of red lock tight,he also had to stop and pick up a lent out old style spanner wrench. The nut is round and has 4 slots.
I/we reinstalled the worn nut (after cleaning the shaft threads with a thread chaser,which i had on board.
Here is the step's
1 with the tail section removed spray down the nut and shaft area to remove lube film--Blow dry with shop air.
2 apply red lock tite to threads of shaft and nut,install
torque to 300-310 ft lb--here if you have the service manual
it will advise if you did want to purchase the miller tool #
6743 and had a 3/4 drive torque wrenchyou can tighten best way you can , ie old style spanner , then using a hammer and blunt chisle drive it tight
#3 and this is what WILL keep it in Place. Taking a 3/16 center
punch go up the nut a thread or two and with a 3 lb
hammer give it a tap to set the mark then put your back
/arm into it. . repeat at least 8 times around the dia. of the
nut. Remember what you want to do is drive the nut threads down into the shaft threads.
1 B. not knowing the nut you have it should look like a castle nut with out the slots... ..... It is also the nut that was superceded by the split nut kit now at you d/c out let. or call std trans and request the tapered nose NV nut ,think it is # 1875 (buryed in tax records)
Do you have to replace 5 th gear ?? No , i didnt at first,and ran it for 168k with only staking the nut 4 times,the repair was a n attempt to get me home, when i talked to the mfg'r with my results i found they had already cut a keyway in the shaft and tryed to stake once into the cut. . but didnt work and was comming out with the split nut set. I told them (after the split nut test) they didnt make up there mind to keep it in place,and i suppose they were worried about removeal by some inexperanced tec/parts cost/main shaft.
Do you need to replace the fifth gear NO... . I repeat,NO...
I posted this a couple weeks ago bruyed out there in ciber land
Low cost ,simple to do.
Now copy after reading have been postint this for Mo's/years and past on to other non members when i pass a D/Chevy owner i can tel buy the eng(if running) if it is a auto or stick.
First if your unit is a aprox build date of mid to late july/early august 98 when you remove the rear cover you will find what is called the split nut with a set screw/ refered to the as a clamping bolt... ie. the factory fix.
I field tested it pre production and it preformed better Aprox 18,000 miles. In my case,I will add I installed a new main shaft to spec's for a fair test and it Held longer than the nut installed in 96,(first factory try at a repair) build date was late may.
When mine let go in aug of 96 i reused the flat face nut that i drove to a shop (not d/c) and got the use of there hoist and mech/tools to help.
I sent the parts man after a can of starting fluid and a small botttle of red lock tight,he also had to stop and pick up a lent out old style spanner wrench. The nut is round and has 4 slots.
I/we reinstalled the worn nut (after cleaning the shaft threads with a thread chaser,which i had on board.
Here is the step's
1 with the tail section removed spray down the nut and shaft area to remove lube film--Blow dry with shop air.
2 apply red lock tite to threads of shaft and nut,install
torque to 300-310 ft lb--here if you have the service manual
it will advise if you did want to purchase the miller tool #
6743 and had a 3/4 drive torque wrenchyou can tighten best way you can , ie old style spanner , then using a hammer and blunt chisle drive it tight
#3 and this is what WILL keep it in Place. Taking a 3/16 center
punch go up the nut a thread or two and with a 3 lb
hammer give it a tap to set the mark then put your back
/arm into it. . repeat at least 8 times around the dia. of the
nut. Remember what you want to do is drive the nut threads down into the shaft threads.
1 B. not knowing the nut you have it should look like a castle nut with out the slots... ..... It is also the nut that was superceded by the split nut kit now at you d/c out let. or call std trans and request the tapered nose NV nut ,think it is # 1875 (buryed in tax records)
Do you have to replace 5 th gear ?? No , i didnt at first,and ran it for 168k with only staking the nut 4 times,the repair was a n attempt to get me home, when i talked to the mfg'r with my results i found they had already cut a keyway in the shaft and tryed to stake once into the cut. . but didnt work and was comming out with the split nut set. I told them (after the split nut test) they didnt make up there mind to keep it in place,and i suppose they were worried about removeal by some inexperanced tec/parts cost/main shaft.
Do you need to replace the fifth gear NO... . I repeat,NO...
I posted this a couple weeks ago bruyed out there in ciber land
