Lost my head gasket today. HELP!

[Lucas5477]

Ok so I did not put studs in the first time. This time Im going to go with the ARP studs. Where is the best place to get them? Is there anyone back in Ohio that stocks them.



1. What is the part number for a . 020 head gasket, where is a good place to get it? Are there other options for a head gasket? It is still a daily driver.



2. Once I get the head off what is the best way to prep the block to put the head back on?



Anything else I need to get or do. I had the head off a little over a year ago had the head resurfaced . 010, valve job, did a little porting in the pockets, and oringed. I do see a little heat. I never hold it there but I have been over 1600 many times. I plan on going to a set of twins in the next few months. Any help would be great. Thanks



Lucas

 

[**ICEMAN**]

PDR for the studs and gasket

http://www.piersdiesel.com/

get the marine head gasket

might as well talk to them about the twins when you call.

since it's been a year and you've been at 1600 deg a few times,,you may want to get the head checked.

 

[Lucas5477]

Called them last year about getting a gasket from them. They said to just get one local. I already have plans for twins Im going to utilize my USB, and get a BIG bottom turbo.



I would like to find the studs here in Ohio so I can get them in the next few days.



What is the part number for the marine gasket? Im sure one of the cummins store around here will have it in stock.



Thanks,

Lucas

 

[Todd T]

you should wait the purchase the head gasket until you get the head off and checked for straightness. if you wind up milling it a tad to take a hump out you will need to size your HG accordingly.



again, PDR is the best place to consult. Haisley Machine in IN. also has HG's, studs and very good support knowledge.

 

[JoshPeters]

GET THE HEAD CHECKED!!!!!



I didn't..... now I'm on my 4th headgasket in under 1000 miles.



OEM gasket... . 256,000 miles on it... . it was time, combustion into the coolant

1st one..... wrong torque specs oil into the coolant

2nd one... . leaked coolant to the outside world

3rd one with 12mm studs... . Combustion into the cooant.



I thought I was having head torquing problems. Now I'm thinking it's a cracked head. I haven't taken it appart yet again, I'm waiting for cash. I am kicking myself for not getting the head checked last time it was off. It's only around $50 in my area. It's cheep insurance!



Josh

 

[ctd8999]

Call Summit they stock the studs I believe. Thanks Steve B.

 

[Hohn]

Lucas:



If you're looking for large chargers, check out J. R. Adkins' big air HT4C and Ken's B-52 and Big Brother turbos.



JLH

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

Lucas,



I got them in stock and I can get ya a good price, give me a call 866-504-4002

 

[Lucas5477]

J. R. Already got a call from me :-laf ..... He was the first to get a call..... I was think about the BHT4C... . I think that will move a little air.



Thanks for the help guys.



Josh: Your right. I need to get that head checked. That is the fist think I will be doing when I take it off.





Stefan: I just tryed calling you.







Lucas

 

[Lucas5477]

By the way If I have to have it resurfaced. Do I need to have the oring grooves for the wire cut out more? What is the Tolerance for the O-rings? I think that they are between . 010-. 012 right now.



Is there someone close to Cleveland with that oring tool?



Thanks Lucas

 

[BPonci]

Yes you need to have your grooves recut if you go over . 005 resurface on the head.

 

[Todd T]

its recommended you go with a thicker gasket after 6 thou or so off the head. if you're still under that you should be OK using a stock gasket. much more than that and those exhaust valves may wind up kissing he pistons in the upper RPM's.



torquing the head properly is crucial.



1A. Initial torque in sequence with manual to 1/3 spec. (97ftlbs with ARP and their lube, or 127 with other brand of studs)



1B. bring torque to 2/3rds spec in sequence.



1C. bring torque to full (final) spec in sequence.



2. Warm engine with the radiator cap off



3. Cool down to 100 degrees or colder. then line torque* them to spec (ft. lbs)



4. drive about 250 miles keeping boost levels below 40 or so.



5. check or re-torque while cold to spec. dont back them off just bump to make sure they dont move and are to the proper torque. Mark them with a sharpie and if any of them move during the this (3rd) re-torque then re-line torque and drive another 250 miles and repeat step 5.



Cleanliness is next to Godliness as well.



Line torqing refers to: effectively there are four rows of bolts. start at front drivers side bolt, back off torque and then retorque to spec. move to next bolt back in that row and repeat. when you get to the firewall move to the next row inboard (toward pass side) and go from back to front. move to next row over and front to back etc. until you complete all 26