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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) lots of smoke still.............

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) upgrade tweaks

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Code 1689

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another reason why the 40's don't last as long is the compressor wheel is larger than a hx35, and the shaft is similar to the hx35. with the extra mometum of the larger wheel, when you snap the throttle closed, and all that boost wants to spin that compressor wheel backwards, it creates alot more stress on the shaft, and that is why you see more 40's go than hx35's
 
I AM HAVING THE SAME SMOKE PROBLEM. MY 97 WITH AN HX40, 370 MARINE INJCTERS, TST #10 PLATE, AND 4'' EXHAUST, NO MATTER WHAT I DO EXHAUST TEMPS ARE HIGH AND SMOKE IS BLACK. SLIDE THE PLATE BACK AND TEMP GOES DOWN, BUT POWER FEELS SLUGGISH, AND IT STILL SMOKES LIKE A BATTLE SHIP. COULD USE SOME HELP. I DID JUST ORDER AN AFC SPRING KIT FROM TST TO SEE IF IT WOULD HELP.
 
First of all, take the CAPS LOCK off.

Next, everywhere I hear those 370 injectors are pretty heavy smokers. But what are the guys who don't smoke heavily with them running to get the EGTs down as well as the heavy smoke?
 
Originally posted by ADSmith

It can flow way more at the same boost pressure because there is less backpressure on the exhaust side of the HX-40 than there is on the 35. This allows the cylinder pressure to be much lower when the intake valve opens, which means more fresh air gets in.

So would you say I am running my turbo at an inefficent range for my engine? Should I adjust the wastegate to open earlier to lower the boost? My smoke is good, it clears up after the turbo spools up and engine rpm gets past 2000. The engine still feels like it is pulling pretty hard with all that boost at the top end.
 
Originally posted by JGheen

So would you say I am running my turbo at an inefficent range for my engine? Should I adjust the wastegate to open earlier to lower the boost? My smoke is good, it clears up after the turbo spools up and engine rpm gets past 2000. The engine still feels like it is pulling pretty hard with all that boost at the top end.



Its possible that you could make a little more power by setting the wastegate to open sooner - the backpressure goes sky high when you get much over 30 psi on my truck. One thing you might check since you have the Banks Twin-Ram is the gaskets. I had one on my truck and the cheap paper gaskets they sent with it broke and I had a fairly serious boost leak. The smoke would clear up around 2000 like yours but was sluggish and smoky below 2000. I took the pieces back off and reinstalled with a thin layer of RTV and haven't had any problems since, and I can get full spool-up of the turbo at 1500 rpm.
 
Originally posted by ADSmith

Its possible that you could make a little more power by setting the wastegate to open sooner - the backpressure goes sky high when you get much over 30 psi on my truck. One thing you might check since you have the Banks Twin-Ram is the gaskets. I had one on my truck and the cheap paper gaskets they sent with it broke and I had a fairly serious boost leak. The smoke would clear up around 2000 like yours but was sluggish and smoky below 2000. I took the pieces back off and reinstalled with a thin layer of RTV and haven't had any problems since, and I can get full spool-up of the turbo at 1500 rpm.

What would a boost leak have to do with what we are talking about? I know for sure I do not have a boost leak, being the gaskets are brand new and they have RTV on them as well. My engine is not sluggish at all but somewhat smokey down low, but that would be due to how my AFC is tuned which I could turn the wheel back a bit to get some reduced smoke.
 
Smoke Issue

With my setup on my 96 ctd, the only time i get real bad smoke is when i have no boost built up or i have the hammer down to the floor board. I can pull 10,000 pounds on my gooseneck trailer with no egt issues. Oo.
 
Well i got the spring kit installed in the afc housing and the results are impressive. lot less smoke and desent power before bost. i have not messed with the timing yet. how do you adjust it and what should i set it at.
 
Make sure you don't have any leaking hoses and the waste gate is not opening too soon. A Turbo Air Guide (TAG) or TAG-II may also help to reduce the smoke.
 
I have a major boost leak. I had one at the output of the turbo. The two parts with the o ring where not seated. I fixed that. Now my secound leak is at the bottom of my inter cooler. I have removed it and water tested it. The leak is right at the tune to tank connection. I think I will try to sand plast it clean and epoxy it for now. Unless one one else has a better idea. I need to put the truck back together today for work tomarrow.



Anyone that thinks thay don't have a boost leak and haven't pressureized the system are nieve. I was sure I had them all fixed before. Man was I wrong:eek:
 
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After farther looking I have aleast 10 tubes leaking. I have concluded that even a temp fix is hopeless. I am reassembling the truck for now. And will look for a new inter cooler next week. Any one know that to get? I was thinking of a 24v but do I need to get that from the dealer?
 
A used one scares me. Mine looks great till you pressure test it. I would really hate a secound bad one. What are some sources for new ones?
 
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Would the 89-93 CTD intercoolers work, or to that matter, be more efficent than the stock 94-98 intercoolers?
 
Ditch the 191 DV's if you want to control smoke with the 370's. I had and H2E and at 45# with full fueling and a #4 plate it would still go black behind me. At MM last year I dynoed over 500 with lots of smoke, but reduced fueling for daily driving and dynoed at just over 400 and still had plenty of smoke when I rolled the loud pedal too fast. With 191's and 370's you will have a lot of low end smoke, that is how my stoopid pump is set-up and even with the twins it smokes big time when given fuel too fast with the loud pedal.

Bruce
 
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