2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Loud squeak, right front, 4x4 only

[KRStone]

Guys, driving home in the blizzard tonight, a squeak started.

its drivetrain, not engine.
its only when rolling.
its faster when rolling faster
its only in four wheel drive
it sounds like the right front of the truck

due to the blizzard, I can't go out and do any troubleshooting.

what would squeak only in 4x4???

 

[samsonite01]

Unit bearings can squeak. But so can other things. Are you in 4x4 when it happens. Dose it stop and start or is it constant. Dose it stop when brakes are applyed?

Probly a unit bearing, not to bad to replace. Ball joints and shaft joints are good to do while your in there.if needed.

 

[KRStone]

The unit bearing is spinning the entire time though, not just in 4x4.

It happens when moving, in 4x4. *I don't remember if it goes away when the brakes are applied.

 

[Killer223]

there is torque on the u-joints. check the front drive line u-joints and the axles ones. if you can't think of them ever being replace it's best to get it before it leave you stranded with a even higher repair bill.

 

[samsonite01]

Try applying brakes while holding speed. Brake shoes can break in peices and squeak aginst the rotor. I have also bent the dust shield into the rotor while out playing in the snow before. Just had to pry it back off the rotor. You would feel a jerking wobble in truck while trying to turn if it was a shaft joint. You would feel a vibration if a drive shaft. Jack up front of truck SAFELY and spin the wheel. It will be obvious whats wrong.

Is it more like a squeal?
How many miles on truck?
Have any front drivetrain parts been replaced?
Do you work on your own vehicles?

 

[KRStone]

260k miles.
I do my own work.
In the last 4 yrs, i have replaced one of the unit bearings, both outer u joints on the front axle.
Never touched the front transfer case output propeller shaft u joints, i wonder if it is one of those? *I have never done that type of u joint.

I will check my records for which unit hub bearing i have replaced.

The sound was a rhythmic squeak, not constant, not intermittent. *Frequency increased with speed.

I will get under truck tomorrow (day off) and post an update or more questions. *Thank you for helping. *Got to get it fixed and on the road.

 

[samsonite01]

I hear you man. Im doin ujoints in rear this weekend. My fronts need replacing also.

Sounds like you have it narrowed down. On my 2001 the ujoints on the double cardan were 1350s and the diff side was 1355. Only couple thousandths different. A 1350 will fit but will be loose. Check what you have to make sure. Iv heard of people mistakingly putting a 1350 in place of a 1355 cause it will fit and feels right only to experience premature failure that tricks you in to thinking something else is wrong leading you on a wild and expensive goose chase. Ha

 

[KRStone]

Parked it in 2x4, crawled under, spun the front driveshaft and that is where the squeak is coming from.

Can't feel any play in the joints.
Couldn't pinpoint the squeak with a long handled screwdriver as a stethoscope.

As far as I know, they have never been replaced. I have the service history for life of the truck.

I have never pulled the front driveshaft, and I cannot find my FSM.

Is it as simple as marking them with paint pen, and unbolting?

 

[fest3er]

Rust on the ujoints (axle or D/S) at/near the seal is a strong clue they need to be replaced.

Also, if you had the bearings off, you *might* have installed the dust shield backward which can cause squeak-squeak, too.

 

[samsonite01]

Mark everything. Yank it out. Press out olds, press in news. Do the ball socket to. Not to hard with a bench vice. If you did your front shaft joints you shouldnt have a problem. Word of advice, never start beating on things. With a vice and common sense the job is easy.

 

[KRStone]

I will pull the pan from under the crossmember and try and pull the shaft tomorrow.

I think I will take the rear driveline off for new joints and bearing as well, they are also original.

 

[fest3er]

Be prepared for the D/S bearing caps to be *very* difficult to press out. Mine were original (300k miles) and had kind-of rusted in place. One or two of the crosses had to be cut out to make any progress.