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Low Dyno #'s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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2wd alignment specs

My 1st gen on ebay

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The star wheel is turned down. I can tell that the needle is doing what is should on the pin. The throttle is all the slack I can take up on the pump and pedal. I fill both 5" stacks till about 20lbs boost. Its just a have at 35 lbs. I didnt use my head about the brake trick on the dyno. Max tq was at 1800, 4th gear was 35 mph to 73 mph and 5th was 45 to 105. My pump is turned til it comes off of a high rev slow(about two and half turns from stock. I didnt go to tdc when i turned the pump i just put it 1/8th in above the factory mark.
 
Has the high idle screw been backed out ot get full throw on the throttle shaft? They were limited in a stock setting.



What rpm was peak HP not TQ? Where did it start defueling?



The TQ number is consistent with 280 to 290 HP but a lot will depend on how many rpm's you can get. I take it those were actual numbers not corrected.
 
Peak hp was at 2200 and started dropped fast at 2500. Thats about all I can get is about 25 to 2700 rpm under a load. The high idle screw has been removed completly.
 
From the numbers it sounds like you are either running out of fuel or the pump is just lazy on the top end. Thats probably why you are only seeing a max of 35 psi. HP is a function of rpm so with the stock gov spring you should that peak at 2600 to 2700.



How many miles on the pump?
 
Prob the factory pump. Thinking of swappint to p-pump or 14mm head and rotor but havnt decided the pros and cons between the two??? I guess im getting tired of the three digit torque #'s.
 
You can hit 4 digit torque with a 12mm head, 14 may be better, but I am no expert in that field. 14mm heads like lots of fuel flow, I hear. I think new springs and a gov modification ala Greenleaf would help you. You should be able to hit the mid to upper20s RPM before power drops off.



If you go P-pump, it wont be a "true" 1st gen anymore ;)



Nice tq-hp ratio, though. Wish I had 800ft-lbs and only 230hp; that'd be awesome.



-DP
 
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