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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Low fuel pressure

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) drive line seals

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) non egr

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Today, driving away from a traffic light I thought the truck was low on power, so I looked at the gauges and the fuel pressure was about 5lbs. Normally it is 13-16 lbs.

So, I stopped and turned it off then restarted it and normal pressure. Then drive away and it was fine until I coasted to a stop. It dropped to 5 again. I kept repeating this till I got home. About 15 restarts total. Then I got near home and it quit acting up.

Now, it is not the filter. ( it wouldn't recover with a restart. )

The power is definely down with low pressure.

I don't think it ever dropped while the engine was above 1500 rpm.

Can anyone explain what is going on?
 
sounds like the lift pump is starting to fail. mine did the same thing 3-4 times then the check eng. light came on with a circut code for the lift pump. cycling to key fixed several times till it died all together. ended up changing my pump on the side of the road.

don't let it go that far imo ken
 
I am prepared to put an aftermarket pump on the truck. I'd like to be sure the lift pump is the problem before installing the real pump.

I hope someone explains the failure in this pump. Why does it re-juvenate with the cycling of the key?

Then after the truck is fixed, I'd like some one to explain why dodge fixed the old design pump that would go a million miles!!!

It looks like they went from " cheap and proven " to " cheap and walking".

Progress.
 
Originally posted by fox

Then after the truck is fixed, I'd like some one to explain why dodge fixed the old design pump that would go a million miles!!!

It looks like they went from " cheap and proven " to " cheap and walking".

Progress.



Because Dodge never had to fix/replace the "old" ones, that = no $$ in they're pocket, with the "new" LP they charge $330 or so + installation to replace, that = big money.



If thats not the reason, I'm stumped also.



Later, Rob



Call Doug @ www.smokindiesel.com when/if you need a pusher-pump.
 
when i took my pump apart the fuel side of it looked fine. the electrical side was cooked. the brushes were gone. as far as longevity my new pump has 31,ooo mile and 18 psi idle. 12 wot,purchaced from cummin's around 150$. so far so good:) ken
 
Some time ago when other members were talking about these pumps ,I went ahead and bought the Aeromotive pump, filter and pressure regulator. Part # 11203, 12303 and13301.

Should I go ahead and put it on? If so would you leave the original ? Or replace it or remove it?

Of course the aero-pump will be a pusher at the tank.

Also did you reuse the original line from the tank or install a new bug in the tank?

Thanks.
 
Rob, it would be nice if these 24 valve motors still had the lobe on the cam so we could put the correct pump on !
 
Fox... . as others and Rob has said I too believe it to be a failing lift pump. If you have no mods, take to dealer for replacement warranty... After replacement warranty, look at your pressure again... it should be around what it was before, 13 + psi. I wouldn't necesarly install the pusher pump until you do up grades, ie. larger injectors, fueling boxes etc. when you do these up grades you will notice a drop in fuel pressure, and perhaps at that time you add the pusher pump. The pusher pump will make up the loss of pressure due to the up grades... . The pusher pump will help the lift pump and hopefully extend service of the lift pump, however, some day it may fail again. At 50,000 miles I'm on my second lift pump... . Its great you have a fuel pressure gauge and I would recommend everyone whether bombed or not should get one to monitor their fuel pressure... . get it replaced quickly to avoid damage to the injection pump, and have a total failure.



Steve
 
There is a thread about a 4100 up at the top of this section (Has anyone with a 2002 lost their lift pump?). Looks like a permanent fix is in the making. The web page even has choices based on psi output. Starting to look like a good lift pump fix finally.
 
Just to up date every one, today, it did it 5 more times but only after it was warmed up. Not sure if that is important but time will tell.

Later in the day I changed the filter, second time with this truck, and it was dirty looking. More so than the first filter change at about 8,000 miles. Tomorrow will give me more input.

Just out of curiosity, I wander if this is a algea problem and if a biocide would change anything.

Btw the truck is modified, and I would rather fix this at my own expense than have the dealer/techs scratch a fender like the last time. It is hard to trust people who don't know that battery acid is bad on metal parts. Even the guys that I have hired that didn't finish high school probably know that.

More tomorrow!
 
Lift Pump Being Replaced Under Warranty

Where did my power go? It used to just pull harder and harder until I let off the pedal… Well, at the KC Dyno Day Sunday, one of the attendees had a FP gauge on a long tube. Hooked it, taped it to the windshield and onto the road. OMG!!! 7 lbs. at idle and pegged 0 fast when I put the foot into it! :--)



Next morning I called the dealer where I bought my Ram (Melton’s in Claremore, OK), told him I had 7 lbs at idle and asked about the warranty situation (he’s well aware of the “improvements” I’ve made on my Cummins). He said not to worry – the lift pump was something he always kept a couple on hand, and that since it comes just before the effects of my mods (like the tap on the VP44 wire that he’s seen), he said no problem – warranty work covered 100% - he’d put my name on one and set it back for when I hit Tulsa next week, and since I’m travelling, he’d be sure it’s first thing that they take care of. Now that’s service! He told me that almost any dealership SHOULD replace under warranty if no mods were placed between the tank and the lift pump, but not all dealers played by the same standards. :rolleyes: Duh!



Bottom line, it should be warranty work since very few mods affect the lift pump – but ya gotta know your dealer. (Thanks, Larry Melton!:cool: )
 
Todays up-date. After changing the filter yesterday the pressure dropped once right after but has not done it at all today. Go figure!!. I am still concerned with it .

I suspect the pump is weak and the filter was getting plugged which made the pump work hard and it got hot. Or the pump just had a good day before it gives up.

I have the new pusher pump ready to go and just need the time to put it on.
 
Lift Pump Pressures

OK... . The drama continues with FP pressures. This morning in about 30 degree weather I went to start my truck (Not plugged in) & she fired right up as usual..... I looked at the FP gauge & it read 11 PSI & then dropped to 0 PSI. Stayed there for about 1 minute & then rose to 5 PSI. After about 5 minutes it climbed to 11 PSI.

Drove 330 miles today & @ idle I saw on average:



11 PSI @ idle

9-10 PSI cruising @ 70 mph

5 PSI +- @ WOT.....



All day @ idle it seemed OK, but this morning it was like it was dying.....



What do you guys think?



Clay
 
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