Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Low oil pressure at Idle

[Cody Gamble]

Thank you guys A TON by the way. There is no one else I can ask and nowhere else I can go for wisdom on these issues. TDR is a great resource.

 

[Tuesdak]

Inspect the breather on top of the valve cover for being flooded with oil.

Have a way to shut off the air off if the engine runs away.

 

[BigPapa]

Inspect the breather on top of the valve cover for being flooded with oil.

There is no “breather” on the valve covers. This is a 12-valve.

 

[Cody Gamble]

Well I decided to tear apart the engine and inspect everything again. I dropped the pan and found this 2 mm ferrous shard among the normal run-in shavings. This, oddly is the 2nd such magnetic shrapnel I’ve found in this engine. Back in July, before final assembly and BEFORE running it at all I found very similar shards inside the governor bowl of the P Pump while installing 3k springs. I posted a question about it on here TDR too. I ended up flooding the gov housing with clean oil and running a magnet inside. It came away clean so I continued with the build. Now I find more of the same…This pump has been messed with too…the safety wire securing the gov housing access bolt was Mickey Moused up. I’m real confused now though bc everything I personally did to this engine is checking out fine so far. Pic with the calipers is the new shard from the oil pan. Pic with the pencil is from the p pump gov housing before the engine was assembled or ran. What brand gaskets you guys recommend for when I reassemble?

 

[NIsaacs]

I would go with Fel-Pro.

 

[GAmes]

It's been quite awhile since I went gasket kit shopping but the only complete ones I have found in the past are Cummins upper and lower kits. If Felpro makes a kit I would use one.

 

[Tuesdak]

When you tore it back down any indication in the combustion chambers of where the oil may be coming from?

 

[Cody Gamble]

When you tore it back down any indication in the combustion chambers of where the oil may be coming from?

I’m not that far yet. I had to organize my shop etc. I’m going at this like a detective—sterile environment, note taking, bagging evidence—literally. All I’ve done is take off appendages. Most notable thing I’ve found so far is old filter media in the oil cooler and galling in the oil cooler housing from the pressure regulating valve. In the pic the junk I tweezed out is in the gasket “window.” Finger is pointing to where I found it.

 

[Cody Gamble]

There were some fine metal particles in the bottom of the fuel filter can as well as in the oil filter but nothing I think that was out of the ordinary. The concerning chunks (1 to 2.3 mm) were isolated to the oil pan and are ferrous metal.

 

[Tuesdak]

Most notable thing I’ve found so far is old filter media in the oil cooler and galling in the oil cooler housing

Given the debris found I would inspect the current oil filter for failure and then tear the engine completely back down with the purpose of cleaning every single oil passage. Debris clogging an oil squirt is a known way these engines die. I don't know if this step was skipped or this area missed, but, clearly it needs more attention.

Valve guides or rings (cylinder condition) is the major ways oil enters the combustion chamber. Did the ring gaps line up? Having cracked and burned a hole in pistons in the past I add this as a way oil gets in... This much oil should be pretty clear as to where it's coming from.

 

[Cody Gamble]

The engine is completely torn down. Here is what I’ve found: 1. Moderate galling in oil filter head from Pressure Regulating “cup.” 2. Pressure Relief Valve spring in Oil Filter head seems a tad weak. 3. #3 rod bearing scored from debris passage. 4. Light vertical lines (can’t even feel them) in all cylinders. 5. Piston 1 and 6 have had several light valve strikes. ( cam issue? I previously replaced the gear bc the old one broke several teeth when the KDP fell out. It was lined up with the 0 and 00 upon install). All valves and push rods looked fine too. I’m stumped.

Low Oil P maybe from the galling and the PRV. Re the oil ******* out the turbo exhaust—it’s not coming from the cylinders as they were spotless above and below the pistons. I think it’s being drawn in past the valve seals or from the turbo by negative pressure since the cac tubing wasn’t hooked up. Only a guess. Feel like a bought a lemon..

 

[Cody Gamble]

Valve guides had less than .004 play. Everything looked really good except for the above. Oil was coating everything appropriately but there is some seepage occurring from the stem seals when I did a leak check.

 

[Cody Gamble]

All PCNs were present and no evidence of combustion gasses passing the rings. #1 did have some spillage of gas beyond the top ring but it was caught by the intermediate ring. All rings were oriented “TOP” up. … and everything passed torque checks.

 

[GAmes]

Did you measure piston protrusion? The valve marks on the head could be from the deck being shaved which requires a thicker HG.

 

[Tuesdak]

I don't like the looks of the cylinder and wonder if you got low spots: the dark areas. Did you clean the piston crowns? Otherwise they look "oil washed" clean from oil getting by the rings due to cylinder problems. The scratches don't help, but, IMO they wouldn't pump that much oil out.

The turbo doesn't provide boost at idle. Pressure or vacuum in/at the intake doesn't pump oil out.

My 2003 had a cylinder sleeve that was moving and a similar but long dark spot. It caused the engine to literally knock. Below was after being punched 0.20 over and 500 miles later.

 

[GAmes]

My 2003 had a cylinder sleeve that was moving and a similar but long dark spot. It caused the engine to literally knock. Below was after being punched 0.20 over and 500 miles later.

What sleeve? The 5.9 is a parent block, no sleeves to move.

 

[Tuesdak]

What sleeve? The 5.9 is a parent block, no sleeves to move.

My observation is the cylinders may be out of round in some places.

My 2003 had dropped a valve seat or other debris in cylinder #1 and #1 was sleeved as part of the half-assed repair the PO had done. They had slapped this head back on.

 

[Cody Gamble]

I did measure piston protrusion. .021 #6 and .024 #1. I did not have any machine shop work done as everything checked w/i spec. I used vernier calipers though bc I don’t have the money for micrometers. This was a budget build. Biggest lesson learned: NEVER buy a disassembled engine. I have an appointment with the machinist to properly measure the block n crank n rods now. Thinking everything may be undersized. Thinking the valve strike is either from the cam being off degree from the KDP or if I did the lash process wrong (only used the timing pin for #1 TDC. No wire hung/ did not peen the crank).

 

[Cody Gamble]

I’m an idiot. I just realized those crescent marks were from the sockets. I used to temporarily suspend the head above the block during install. I took detailed notes during the process and: see pic from 4/2024. So the only issues I’m actually working are the low oil P and oil spattering out of the exhaust.

 

[BigPapa]

I think your oil issue is from the severe overfill.