Lowering 4wd truck

[drifter]

I am in the early stages of getting a FW. My truck is a 99 quad 4WD Shortbed. Sits about 56" high at the rear. I have been looking at the Dodge lowering kit (to expensive) and studied what others have done.

In my observation of the problem it appears to me that you could just remove the overload springs and block. That would drop the rear 2" (might even be able to use the original U bolts). Now with that said install a set of 5000 # air bags to level up or serve as overloads when needed. Just an idea.

Just purchased an almost new Reese slider hitch for 200. 00 compete with mounting kit etc. . Sitting on the floor until we figure out which FW we will get.

 

[Jumbo Jet]

The overload springs sit above the regular springs and do not contribute to the ride height. The block below the regular springs - 5" on my 2002 - can be replaced.



I replaced my 5" block with a self manufactured 2-1/2" block and lowered my 4x4. I adjusted the steering caster and have traveled 42,500 miles with no problems.



Place a 2-1/2" block between the overload and regular springs to keep the overload spring capability.



My truck rides about 2" higher in the rear than the front. Second 4x4 I have lowered. Total cost was about $50 for material.

 

[klenger]

I had the dealer lower mine under warranty using the TSB. I really like it. I think it's an improvement wheter you tow or not.

 

[Forrest]

I made a couple phone calls & dropped in on some 4WD shops ... got the big :-laf when I told them I wanted to lower it. Everyone that goes in these types of shops wants to raise them. Felt like an old f&@t.

 

[ropinfool2]

Hey Klenger, What TSB are you refering to? I also would like to lower my truck a little, just a little to accomodate my 5ver better. Thanks. John

 

[klenger]

The TSB I had done is for the 2nd Gens. I don't know if they have one for the new ones or not. Here's a link to the 2nd gen TSB.



http://www.klenger.net/dodge/tsb-lower-rear-axle.html

 

[drifter]

Yep you are right. The overload stuff is on top of the stack. . My lower block is 5" tall. How about going to "Trucking" magazine and ordering a 3" lift block and replaceing the 5" block with it ?

It looks like if you maintain the height (with air bags) at 2" lower in the rear you would be about level going down the road. Mine has a 2+ " rake unloaded. TNX for the reply.

 

[wcoomes]

lowering 4x4

Would you want to follow this TSB before buying a truck camper as well?

 

[Loren]

Drifter,



I assume from your comment about the hitch sitting on the floor until you decide on a fifth-wheel trailer that you will decide where to mount it on the truck depending upon the trailer hitch configuration. This would be a mistake.



A fifth-wheel hitch should be mounted either directly above or slightly (2" or so) forward of the rear axle. If you think that you can mount it behind the rear axle to allow towing a fifth-wheel trailer with a short-bed truck, you will find that the rig will be unstable.



I realize that I am leaping to a conclusion here and that you may not have meant this at all, but I want to be sure that others don't get the wrong idea about where a fifth-wheel hitch should be installed.



Loren

 

[Ron Bissett]

Some trailers have provision to raise the trailer , and its easy to reverse the springs on a fiver with a kit from dexter for spring type axle . If you get a different set up then lower the truck could be way to go . Read post on raise trailer . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KYOo.

 

[Texas Diesel]

It's easy to do. Get shorter lift blocks or have yours cut down. This will require new shocks and removal of the rear stabalizer bar, the stabilizer bar is part of the camper special package and is only needed if you have a high center of gravity load (cab over camper). I took mine off just for the ride improvement, much nicer ride now even with the FW in tow. I would suspect you will have a lot less axle wrap (That annoying back and forth surging) as well but havnt taken the time to get them cut down, it's a winter project.

 

[CraigJohnson]

Lowered 97 2500

My truck (1997 2500 4x4) was too high for me too and so I lowered it myself. First, I went to autozone and rented a coil spring compressor and compressed the spring, used a zizwheel and cut 1 round of the coil off. This lowered the front about 1 to 1. 5 inches. I wouldnt cut off any more due to the tension of the coil spring increases. Landrum Spring told me that I added approx 75 to 150 lbs of tension to the spring. I didn't care because one day I will add one of them heavy bumpers and the extra spring capacity will in handy. Next, I removed the large spacer blocks from the rear and manufactured a spacer block out of 2. 5" square tubing (1/4" thick). The trick here is to drill two alignment holes for your spring perches to sit in. I rounded off a bolt head and put it in one hole and left the other hole open. Painted them black and put them and and now my truck rides has about 1" rake, drives and corners great, and the 5 wheels looks and seems to pull better. As far as the ubolt length, you just can't shorten the ubolt because you will run out of threads and you can't tap them because the thread diameter is larger than the rest of the ubolt. So, I got a pipe reducer (3/4 to 1/2) and used them as temporary spacers. (I later purchased the proper length u bolts from a trailer company for about $10. 00). I am fixing to get rid of the 285/75/16 D load tires and will put on some 265/75/16 e load range tires. I am also considering removing the rubber cushing in the front springs to futher lower the front. Right now I have approx 1" clearance between the front end and the bumper-stop. That equates to about 4 to 6 inches of travel at the wheel which is enough for me. I have not reqretted doing this mod, and the only cost was a saturday morning of my time.