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Lowering the rear

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Manifold tapping gone bad - help

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My dad has a 3500 SLT 4x4 w/ Camper Package and we need to know if any of you guys have any good ideas to lower the rearend.





We have considered using the blocks off of a 2wd. Would this work or is there a better way?





We need to know of a sure thing that is going to work so we can get to hauling!!!
 
Check TSB's

I think there is a TSB for this condition - you may even get the dealer to do it for free. I'm pretty sure it does exactly what you're considering.



Try to cut and paste this (sorry it's not a link):

http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/index.html



Look under suspension, but I think it says camper package must be removed.
 
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Rear lowering TSB

Has anyone had this done yet? I saw this listed in the last TDR and was curious about it. I wouldn't mind having the back sit lower (or level) with the front end. But I'm a letting hesitant to have it done, since she does level out whenever I put a load on her. I'd hate to drop it down empty, then have it sit even lower in the back with a load.



Anyone have any feedback on this one?



Thanks,



Justin
 
Will the dealer perform this modification to the rear suspension under warranty? If so what do you have to request from the dealer? Is it a must for you to have a trailer to want this done or can you claim that you have one to get the work done? I now these kits run about $600 or so and include blocks, u-bolts and new shocks.
 
Since there is a TSB, I assume it would be done at no cost (I think Brand F has similar TSB. ) I'm not sure how far back they will go for model year/miles. I wanted mine to sit level also, but I decided to lift the front to match instead and put some proper size tires on it (for my purposes anyway!):D



Give them the TSB # and tell them you're *gonna* buy a trailer to haul. (Can't pick up the trailer without lowering the truck first, right?) Might want to be sure before you have it done though. I never heard of a dealer 'undoing' a TSB at no cost.
 
lower rear end

I have responded to this problem several times but here goes again... ...

I had my 3500 lowered 4" at a spring shop. They made new blocks (2") and used new u-bolts. Total cost $130 in Anchorage.

I then replaced the shocks myself with 2 whl. drive models at a cost of $105.

Total cost= $235.



I have driven it 60k miles w/o problems. 40k was towing a 14k 5th. whl.



Good luck.
 
Jack has proved it can be done. 4WD blocks are around 4. 5", 2WD around 2-2. 5" so the drop will be something like 2-2. 5" (about level with the front unloaded) if you go that route.



Whatever method you decide, remember you may have to remove overload (camper package) springs, and don't forget to use the small spacer between the U-bolts and the top leaf spring.
 
Some have said you have to remove overload springs; do you have to remove the rear stabilizer bar that comes with the camper package?



The blocks for a 2wd are shorter, but it also looks like the linkage that attaches the stabilizer bar to the frame is shorter; if you replaced that linkage also (one on each side, I think) could you retain the stabilizer?
 
Why do you have to remove the overload springs? The overload springs sit on top of the main springs and the riser block is under the main spring. Putting in a shorter riser block should have nothing to do with the overload springs.



Kevin
 
2 inch rear spacers

I made my own 2 inch spacers out of 1x3 solid flat bar. Welded two together and drilled a hole on top and welded a tit on the bottom like what the origanal spacer had. Took a piece of bushing stock that would fit over the ubolt threads and cut to the proper length. That way you can use your old ubolts. Leave your helpers in place. Mod makes the truck sit level and works great. I did have to adjust my headlites down alittle. I do use air bags to keep the truck level when carring my 945 Lance truck camper. Have had this mod for two years and all is well. Sure does look great at all times. Have no front tire ware.
 
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