Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) LP on the way out. Have ?'s

[JCyrbok]

I'm foreseeing a LP change, be it roadside, in my garage or at the Stealer, in my near future and have a few questions.



If I end up doing it with my spare, will all of the fuel in the line run back into the tank causing major hard starting for the first time? If it does is there any tricks for keeping it from running back to the tank or to make it start easier? I know the starter bump trick but it cant be that easy could it?could it?



What I'm seeing is a decrease in my HOT idle, cruise and WOT numbers over the past couple of weeks. Also my idle and cruise PSI's seem to be kinda of irratic. For instance, just prior to posting I ran 35 miles on fairly straight and level road at aprox 70. Saw anything from 8. 8 to 9. 4 psi ( which is low to begin with) with no reason (hills) for the flucuations.



ANyone know what the Stealers are using for the spec on the pumps for replacement now? I was told acouple of weeks ago by one that CUmmins says the "new" number for WOT is 5PSI

(which oddly enough was just after I told him that I could hit 5). I told him that I thought that it was 8 and he said they just ate a replacement on a truck from DC because the pump was not "dead" according to them. Then I got a headache about killing the VP too and got a not too good look back from him ETC, I know everyone else has been there before.



I would rather the Stealer change the pump under warranty ( I know! fire flack now!) But that is what the warranty is for and DC will never change the pump set up if they dont have to pay. Its kind of a principle type thing. Just like the drywall repairs that I made my drywaller do on my new house. I do drywall on the side but he was the one that messed it up to begin with, he need to be punished! LOL



ANy help will be apprecited,



J-



Oh yeah not to sound stupid but what size wrenchs will i need, for the mounting studs, inlet bracket. Is the banjo 17mm like the rest? Want to get the right size stuppies in my tool box. Thanks

 

[JCyrbok]

BTW I just turned 22K and have no performance mod's, just incase anyone is keeping track of how crappy these pumps hold up.



J-

 

[99guy]

You can loosen the banjo fitting at the VP, do the key thing a couple of times and watch that all air is purged from the lines before you build a fire in her if your worried about air in the lines after LP change.

 

[Bob4x4]

The mounting nuts for the pump will take a 13mm,the strap for the fuel line brace will take a 10mm,the banjos are 17mm. Go in from the top and don't lose any sealing washers and it will be a walk in the park.



Bob

 

[kaffine krazed]

I also recomend a 11mm in case on of the studs pulls out of the lift pump instead of the nut coming off the top. Push the 2 tabs in on the blue fuel line disconnect and pull the fuel supply line off. Remove the electrcal connector, then remove the 10mm bolt for the fuel line support and then the 3 13mm nuts that hold the lift pump on then remove the 17mm banjo bolt from the top of the fuel filter housing. If the lift pump studs stayed on the truck use the 11mm to hold the underside of the stud and the 13mm to remove the nut. When you get the new fuel pump in and all hooked up just bump the starter and let the fuel pump run until it shuts off then start the truck and check for leaks.

 

[JCyrbok]

disconnects

I know there is a quick connect on the tank side of the pump but there isnt one on the filter side of the pump? My shop manual shows quick connects on both. Kaffine Krazed said to remove the banjo from the filter housing too. ANy thoughts?



J-



DIsregard, I re-read the manual and there is just one quick connect on the tank side of the pump.

 

[Bigsaint]

JCyrbok, don't sweat the siphon effect with the fuel in the tank. If you want to assure a foward flow, be sure that your tank is full or near full. When I was changing out my last Mallory pump, I prepared myself for the usual diesel bath, but was surprised by the lack of flow from the hardline ( inbound) when I removed the pump. All the lift pump changes I did in the past were with a full tank of fuel, this time I was slightly under 1/2 a tank.



If you want to take a bath in it, do it with a full tank. Otherwise, make sure your tank is below 1/2 full. Once the pump is installed, key on ( without bumping your starter) several times to get some fuel to the pump for lubrication. After that, bump the starter several times then start cranking.



I have to re-test this theory come spring, as my compression fitting at the hardline has a very small weep at idle. You can bet I will have less than 1/2 a tank for the repair.



Scott W.

 

[monkfarm]

towpro sent me his thread of instructions on exactly how to change liftpump. I don't know how to send it to you, otherwise I would. It includes wrench and sockt sizes, and what to do once it's installed (Thanks!! TOWPRO!!!!!!. I'm sure you could find it about a month ago. It worked great!!