Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Tread width should equal rim width. Stock size is such there’s no reason to change.
Put the truck across the CAT Scale with driver, max fuel and only gear aboard is what stays there permanently. (Get the TARE weight).
Adjust the tire pressure inside the Dodge range of the Load & Pressure Table according to scale data per axle.
This scale ticket and pressure set represents the minimums. Won’t ever weigh less and won’t ever require less pressure.
At the other end is when you’re hitched to your heaviest load. Use same procedure.
The known range of tire pressure is the thing. It isn’t big. Keep the scale tickets and L&P numbers written on them in the glovebox.
I’ve used Michelin LTX. The first two sets (50/50 town/country) covered almost 250k. Tire pressure doesn’t change once 35’ travel trailer hitched (truck is 1200-lbs over curb weight “normally”).
Those who run through tires rapidly (no choice but to rotate), need remedial drivers ed. (Never use brakes and never stop, sorta the mantra. It ain’t a Camry).
It’ll help to have the minimal-size rear anti-roll bar (upsize front one step) and change to poly bushings. Better links. Koni or Bilstein shocks every 40-60k.
SUPER STEER REAR PANHARD ROD worth considering, in addition.
Longest-lasting will be 75-series commercial-type Bridgestone Duravis at the expense of some handling/braking.
70-series is best compromise.
Get the slop out of the steering. 4WD sux on this. (Will pay off).
Put the truck across the CAT Scale with driver, max fuel and only gear aboard is what stays there permanently. (Get the TARE weight).
Adjust the tire pressure inside the Dodge range of the Load & Pressure Table according to scale data per axle.
This scale ticket and pressure set represents the minimums. Won’t ever weigh less and won’t ever require less pressure.
At the other end is when you’re hitched to your heaviest load. Use same procedure.
The known range of tire pressure is the thing. It isn’t big. Keep the scale tickets and L&P numbers written on them in the glovebox.
I’ve used Michelin LTX. The first two sets (50/50 town/country) covered almost 250k. Tire pressure doesn’t change once 35’ travel trailer hitched (truck is 1200-lbs over curb weight “normally”).
Those who run through tires rapidly (no choice but to rotate), need remedial drivers ed. (Never use brakes and never stop, sorta the mantra. It ain’t a Camry).
It’ll help to have the minimal-size rear anti-roll bar (upsize front one step) and change to poly bushings. Better links. Koni or Bilstein shocks every 40-60k.
SUPER STEER REAR PANHARD ROD worth considering, in addition.
Longest-lasting will be 75-series commercial-type Bridgestone Duravis at the expense of some handling/braking.
70-series is best compromise.
Get the slop out of the steering. 4WD sux on this. (Will pay off).
