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Lube Engineers better than Amsoil?

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I do not want to sart a war over lubrications. However, when I was talking to Roy last week (owner Mag-Hytech) he highly reccomended LE oils over Amsoil brands. The only drawback was the need to at least 100lbs of fluid at a time.

I did a search on this and could not find too much information. So, has anyone researched it or tried it?

Thanks



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1995 4X4 std cab 12 valve, original owner, 100k miles, 14cm turbo, 4" straight exhaust - gutted kitty, EGT and Boost guage, #5 torque, 215 injectors, (370's and delivery valves on the way) AFC spring kit, Pscotty airfilter, Dunrite TC and Red Butt Engineering Torqueflite TransButtyy shift kit, 3. 54 rear, 17. 5" American Racing aluminum wheels, Mickey Thompson MTX's, Rancho's RS9000's, Helwig anti-sway, Starcraft camper and assundry dodad's. Only thing faster than a 12 valve is my Ducati 4 valve
 
My experience is that you can't beat Amsoil.

Find someone who stresses their oil to a greater degree then I do #ad
 
I lost an engine, because of Amsoil. It was a gas engine not diesel and a company truck an not my personal, thanks for small favors. In my case I had kept regular service on it. Then on my last service the oil looked pail or milky. I asked the service guy why does it look that that. He said, don't worry about that keep truckin. Three weeks lated I blow the engine. What had happened was I had had a small head gasget leak and the water and antifreeze changed the consistancy of the oil and it lost he lubricating ability. You know the rest of the story.

So I have a love hate relationship for Amsoil, while I was using it it was doing all that it was supposed to, better mileage, less engine ware the whole thing. Just don't mix water and antifreeze into it. We have all blown head gasgets but you normally don't ruin a crank with conventional oil. I am a firm beliver in "Rotella T" or however it is spelled.
dean

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1993, W350, 70K miles, two toned paint, mopar tack, rhino liner,LE, club cab, 22mpg.
 
Hill, how in the heck could you possibly pin that one on Amsoil???? #ad
#ad
#ad
#ad
The reason the motor went t**s up was due to negligence. Period! Are you serious? Am I missing something? #ad


[This message has been edited by John (edited 11-05-2000). ]
 
Hill,

I'm with John on that one. Don't use Amsoil if you don't feel comfortable with it, but, any oil is going to lose lubricating ability when antifreeze/water is mixed in it. The service technician should be paying for the new crank, since he told you to keep driving it. Anytime your oil looks milky there's a problem, and you shouldn't keep driving it. Amsoil may not be the answer to everyone's prayers, but, it is a very good oil.


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Randy Jones, San Antonio, TX, 98 1/2 QC, 4X4, American Racing BAJA's, 285/75/16, Amsoil throughout
 
A-Bomb,
Do the search over using "LE 607"
I just did and there is 50+ threads on gear lube. Everything has been said before. Read them and decide for yourself.

Hill,
I tell you what, you just go ahead and mix some water and anti-freeze in that Rotella, drive it as long as you did the Amsoil and see what happens. I doubt very much the engine would last as long as it did.

If you had not been running Amsoil you would never had thought to blame it on a big oil company.

Absolute negligence on the user.

I demand an apology and your post to be edited to say,

"While using Amsoil I had a head gasket leak and even though I knew it diluted the oil, I chose to ignore it and ruined my engine through my own actions and no fault of the oil. "

THREE WEEKS!! Not bad on ant-freeze!!



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WANTED: Wrecked Dodges. 1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled
Member of TDR,LIC-ROC,GLTDR,NRA www.awdist.com
 
This nessage is for Hill

I am vey partial to Amsoil as I am a dealer. With that out of the way.

I have to agree with John and MGM as to how could you possibley pin that negligence on the maker of the oil, other than the negligence of the owner/driver of the vehicle. There is somithing to be said about oil and the loss of lubricity when water and antifreeze is added. I would feel fortunate that you made it three weeks and I hope that your last trip was to a repretable garage to do the repairs and not the service tech that told you that it was ok to keep driving. I also have to agree with HVAC on having an analysis done at periodic intervals. This is one of the things that any Amsoil dealer should recommend repeatedly, it is a must with any extended drain interval oil and not only Amsoil. That should have been the first thing that the service tech should have recommended. I wonder how he got a job as a service if he cna come up with a recommendation like that. Anyone that knows anything about the mechanical side of oil knows that it does not mix with water and if it is mixed up (as in a crank case) what the final prodect will be.

Enough of that. I am sorry that you had to replace your motor, but remember there is more to keeping an engine running well than taking the word of some service tech that gives you an answer like that. Especially if some thing doesn't look right. Maybe that should have been the time for a second opinion.


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Ram-N-Prowler
Edward Council
Lake Stevens, Washington

1996 Black 2500 SLT CC, Atuo, 4. 10 LSD, Banks Power Pack, BD Torque Loc Converter (after Dyno Day My Converter is sick until after the first of the year) and Brake w/ 60# valve springs, Pyro , Boost and Trans Temp, Ultra Wheels, 285/75R16 RVT Wild Country Tires, TekStyle Tonneau Cover, Lighted Sun Visor, Power Vision Mirrors, Spray in Diamond Liner, Diamond Plate Rail Caps, Amsoil throughout
LOVE THE POWER (but want more)(a bunch),
Pull 27' Prowler TT all over Washington

[This message has been edited by RamNProwler (edited 11-05-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by RamNProwler (edited 11-05-2000). ]
 
Anyone who sees their oil doesn't look right, as in emulsified should NOT run the engine! When water and oil are mixed in the crankcase they create a milky bubbly slurry that should alarm you when you pull the dip stick.

Recommendation: Start sending samples of your oil to the testing facility of your choice. Amsoil will do this, I sent my last sample to Blackstone Labs. One of the important things they are going to look for is coolant in the oil. Chances are the water in the oil happened over some time, started as a small problem and possibly got worse. This problem (as well as others) may have been avoided if oil analysis is done regularly.
 
A-bomb,
Getting back to your original question. Which oil is better Amsoil HDD & Marine 15w-40 or LE 8800 15w-40. Both are good oils. The LE is API approved and certified http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li. cgi?n=Lubrication+Engineers the Amsoil is not. http://www.api.org/cgi-bin/eolcs_li. cgi?n=amsoil The wear rates are very close on both oils, and much lower than other oils. The Amsoil will have a 20 deg F lower pour point and a 27 deg F higher flash point than the LE oil. However the LE has a 36% better oxidation resistance than the Amsoil has.

I believe that the "LE" is the better oil unless you are in very cold temps then the Amsoil pour point would be a benefit. (or you could just use a block heater).

Sincerely, Kevin
 
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Brandon,
OilMan is 100% correct on the statement,

"Just because it is synthetic, doesn't make it better. "

There are a lot of wannabe cheap "synthetics" out there.

This statement does NOT apply to Amsoil.
 
Oil Man,

Thanks for the emails concerning LE oils, as well as other brands. Your openess about the best oils for my applications is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Hi MGM
One of these days we need to have lunch. I'll buy.

I thought I would respond to the letter you posted about the SRV test and the oils that LE has tested in the past. First of all it has never been the policy of LE to do laboratory tests and use them to sell against other companies. However if a customer has a concern and wants to use another companies oil and asks us to do comparative testing, then we will do that for that LE customer. The letter that we are talking about is one of those letters, and was only written for the customer that requested the testing be done.

In the letter that Amsoil wrote in their FAQ's, it said that the main focus of their findings is irrelevant. The main focus was the SRV test and this is what I must address in my response.

In your copy of the Amsoil corporate response you posted that the SRV ASTM D-5707 is a test used for evaluating extreme pressure (EP) properties of greases and that it is used for grease used in front wheel drive automobiles. This test can and is used for many more types of applications other than just grease. Examples;

1. In Castrol's general reference guide, page 3---9 They say "The SRV tester was developed to determine the coefficient of friction, antiwear and EP properties of lubricants under boundary and mixed film condition. Oils that they test on the SRV are;
2 Gear oils
2 Greases (not for CV joints or front wheel drive cars)

2. Plint Tribology testing equipment manual for tribologists page 13 says;
Typical applications for the TE 77 high frequency Friction Machine (SRV) are;
1. Screening Tests for Crankcase and Gearbox Lubricants.
2. Fundamental Lubricant Chemistry Studies
3. Lubricant Formulation Studies
4. Lubricity Testing for Fuels and Lubricants
5. Wear and Liquid Corrosion Studies.
6. Stick-Slip Testing of Industrial Lubricants
7. Boundary Friction Evaluation
8. Grease Evaluation for EP, Anti-Wear and Scuffing properties.
9. Friction, Wear and Failure Testing of Soft and Hard Coatings and Films.
10. Dry and Lubricated Friction and Wear Testing
11. Wear Testing of Engine components;
Cam/Follower, Ring/Liner, Piston Skirt, Valve Train, Fuel Pump.
12. |Fretting Wear Testing.

These are just a few types of tests that are done on the SRV type test machine in addition to the Grease for EP testing that was posted above.

In an article called "Machines and Methodologies for Testing Extreme Pressure and Anti-Wear Properties of Lubricants" Test machines are evaluated to find the best type of tester.

Group 1 Stationary Point of Contact
These are rigs in which the point of contact is stationary on one of the surfaces. They all have simple specimen geometries. Examples include;
Falex
4-Ball
Timken
Reichert

Group 2 Moving Point of Contact;
These are rigs where the point of contact moves over both surfaces. This includes rigs using actual gears and cams as well as twin-disk machines.
FZG
IAE
Ryder
MIRA Cam and Follower
Group 3 Stationary Point of Contact/Minimal Energy Pulse/Independently Thermally Controlled;
These are test machines in which sliding velocities are maintained at low levels in order to minimize frictional heating and in order to promote boundary lubrication regimes. They are the short stroke reciprocation rigs and the two types most commonly available are as follows;
Optimol SRV
Plint TE 77

By comparison with Group 2 machines, the Group 3 machines (except in the case of the piston Ring on Cylinder Liner contact near stroke end) do not set out to emulate the mechanics of the real contact to be investigated, but aim to simulate the intimate contact conditions in a controllable and accessible way. In this respect, these machines fulfill the requirements of an effective bench test that is they are simulators of real contacts.

In his conclusion he said, "Group 1 machines (4-ball, Falex, Timken, Reichert) do not provide an adequate emulation or simulation of real contacts subject to boundary or mixed lubrication regimes. It is not necessary to emulate the mechanics of the contact in order to provide an adequate bench test simulation for assessment of lubricant/additive performance. A third generic group of bench test machines is identified. These machines are primarily simulators and not emulators. These machines provide better experimental control and more flexibility than the latter two Groups. This allows greater insight into the processes taking place within the contact zone. "

He further states that " The capabilities of the test machine groups can be summarized as follows;"
Machines---Real Contacts Emulated---Real Contacts Simulated
Group 1---------Nil ---------Nil
Group 2-----Gear Cam/Follower-----Nil
Group 3-----Ring/Liner-------Gear Cam/Follower

References;
1. Plint M A Alliston-Greiner A F: Extreme pressure and anti-wear properties of lubricants: A critical study of current test methods and suggestions for the future.
2. Bell J C: Critical physical conditions in the lubrication of automotive valve train systems: Tribology international Vol 24 No 2 1991
3. Mills T N and Cameron A: Basic studies on boundary, EP and piston-ring lubrication using a special apparatus: ASLE Transactions Vol 25 117-124.
4. Cooper D and Moore A J: The influence of boundary films on lubricant anti scuffing performance.
5. Alliston-Greiner A F: Testing extreme pressure and anti-wear performance of gear lubricants: ImechE Vol 205 June 1991
6. Cooper D and Moore A J: Wear control in automotive diesel engines: Austrib 94 Perth.

So as you can see the main focus, wear and EP findings are far from irrelevant and do show the difference between lubes as stated by the references I've listed above.


In addition to the above references I'll post a copy of an e-mail that I sent to an independent lab asking about the SRV test.

Hi Kevin!
The SRV is EXCELLENT for testing gear oils, greases, all sorts of lubes and materials... far more versatile and repeatable than any bench test around. Expensive, but WORTH IT!
For gear oils, I recommend you run both step and wear tests in oscillation mode. ASTM tests are a good starting point, but ideally you want to match an application's Temperature (C), Contact Pressures (psi), Stroke (mm) and Frequency (Hz). We can write a custom CAP (computer aided programming) to help you evaluate gear oil performance and optimize additive synergism's. You will receive charts showing coefficients of friction at each temp, load, or frequency range, plus we can measure wear scars and provide digital photos showing the results. SRV is a great sales tool, as well as product development tool.
Mark Adams
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Dinwiddie <KDinwiddie@socal. rr.com>
To: info@tribologytesting.com <info@tribologytesting.com>
Date: Monday, August 28, 2000 10:40 PM
Subject: Questions on the SRV for gear oils

Can the SRV be used for testing on gear oils for Wear, EP, and Coefficient of Friction? Is it as accurate as the 4-ball test? Would the test be called ASTM D-5707 and ASTM D-5706? Your expertise would be greatly helpful.
Sincerely,
Kevin Dinwiddie CLS
Lubrication Engineers Inc.

I believe that I've made my point that the SRV test is more accurate than any other bench test and is widely used for evaluating gear oils as well as other products and not just for greases. Given that the SRV test is accurate and used for gear oils, then the accuracy for the evaluation between the Amsoil and the LE gear oils stands as accurate and shows that the LE has many more times (30. 33) less wear than the Amsoil product. These test confermations are not an embarrassment but further affirms that LE uses the best tests and does not skimp on the quality of their products or the tests that they use.

Sincerely, Kevin
 
must not have got the christmas amsoil gift pack form your wife Gene?????????????????


let the aggression out

i just reread this and i think the key is the blown head gasket thing

gotta love that one... ... ... ...

at my shop, no one cares about the company trucks we service, (drivers). The only ones who care are the co. truck owners and my techs who try to keep em running

B... ... ... ... ... .....
 
As an Amoil dealer, I simply *must* say that nothing beats Amsoil lubricants: they can't be sliced, diced, whipped into a foam, frozen or boiled. #ad
#ad
#ad


[Disclaimer: in case it ain't obvious, the preceeding statements are pure mouse droppings. ]

As a fellow TDR member, check the other threads comparing various lubes and decide for yourself. Post specific questions on the comparisons if you have any. Whichever lube you choose, let us know how it works out.

Which is better? Perhaps you'll end up holding your nose, closing your eyes and grabing one or t'other. #ad


I chose Amsoil because I'd heard more about it for more years than any other synthetic, and because I decided it exceeds my needs.
So far, it's working out OK for me. Vanilla dino oil *is* good enough for our vehicles. Synthetic is as good or better for our vehicles.

Fest3er
 
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