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lubing front drive shaft

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Ok, so I bought the NAPA adaptor and found the lube point. The problem: The cross member is in the way, I'm going at it at an angle, and I'm not sure if any grease is actually going into the joint. I'm getting plenty of grease on the outside but on the inside, I don't know. #@$%! Any tips?



Oh, I took some pre-lube pics. I'll load them tomorrow.
 
Did mine for the first time two days ago. Bought the part specified in another thread (#715-1200 I think) and ran into the same problem with the crossmember. That adapter is too long, too straight, and has un-nessecary parts. Instead get adapter #715-1215 and 45deg. zerk fittings P/N 715-2013. I will try to post pics. Turn the driveshaft so that the fitting is at about 10 o'clock and you can hit it with no problem. No grease should come out at the fitting. If it is, then you are getting none inside. Wiggle the needle around until it is seated correctly-you will see grease coming out behind the front u-joint. A one-handed grease gun is a nessecity in my opinion. I used large medical type q-tips to clean up the excess from between the u-joints.



Bryan
 
I slid the skid plate aside, and like you said, the long needle fitting for the hand gun won't do it ( will not seat ). I have wrestled with this thing too long and I thank you for your pics and advice. Maybe I can do it with the parts you have shown. Thanks again for the descriptive enlightenment .
 
Thanks, Heavy Metal I'll try that! I was thinking of trying to find a 45* or 90* fitting but this combined with the shorter adapter will work great! From one Bryan to another (also with a "y", y would it be any different? ;) ), thank you.
 
I had to have the CV joint replaced on mine about 20K back. They used Spicer joints with "normal" zerks. There is absolutely no way possible to get a gun on them at all. I can't even get at them with a wrench to take them out. My solution: drop the skid plate, pull the 4 bolts on the back end of the shaft, grease away. It's a major pain, but it works. I know, "why didn't you just replace the zerks when you had it down?" Well, I didn't have any on hand nor do I have the right end for the gun. Maybe next time... yeah right. :-laf
 
I bought this one at NAPA and used a tubing bender to adjust so that I could push it dead on the dimple.
 
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Here's what I did. After reading a lot of posts, and finally finding my grease fitting I thought I didn't have, I went to auto zone and bought their syringe type grease needle. I mean sharp like a 10ga. cattle poker. Put it on my flexible hose and stabbed it right in. Went in about a 1/4" and then pumped away. After a few pumps a little lube came out the back of the joint. Bam, finished. You don't have to try and hold in place. Stab it in, and it stays put til' you're done.
 
Here's what I did. After reading a lot of posts, and finally finding my grease fitting I thought I didn't have, I went to auto zone and bought their syringe type grease needle. I mean sharp like a 10ga. cattle poker. Put it on my flexible hose and stabbed it right in. Went in about a 1/4" and then pumped away. After a few pumps a little lube came out the back of the joint. Bam, finished. You don't have to try and hold in place. Stab it in, and it stays put til' you're done.



You might be on to something here because if you poked a hole in all 4 boots the grease would be distributed evenly. I have heard that u-joints with zerks will not grease all 4 sides and the joint will eventually fail because of the one or two sides that don't get grease. My only concern here is that with the frequency that this joint requires grease that the boot will somehow fail because of repeated stabbings.
 
You can actually slide the 'cattle poker' needle in under the the boot clamp. I grease the joint with the needle fitting and then touch up pushing it under the boot clamp. I also marked the spot where I push it under and use the same place every time. It is easier with a one-handed pump as well. This joint is def a PITA, something better needs to come along.



CD
 
I actually stabbed it into the "fish eye" fitting itself. Not the boot. Was concerned about contamination/wearing the rubber out also. Grease seemed to come out fairly evenly around the joint though. Bottom line is, I figure it's good for quite a while with minimal treatment; then when it finally goes I'll get a greasable upgrade later.
 
I to have an 05 with a january build date, it has the lube point. I also use the hypodermic needle style greaser, no muss or fuss slides right in an out with no excess leakage. no need to use adapters 45 offsets or removing cross members.
 
I have one of those grease needles, thanks for the info Walker. I've been having trouble getting the grease through the "fish eye", I'll try my needle next time.
 
Glad to help. I think more people would use this method if they knew about it. Simple once you find the fitting.
 
I bought this one at NAPA and used a tubing bender to adjust so that I could push it dead on the dimple.
In issue #55 on page #44 the NAPA Part # is 715-1213 for the 4 inch grease needle adapter that is pictured here that was bent with a tubing bender. I had to actually show the photo to the counter sales person. Hope this helps others.
 
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