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lug nut torque

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can anyone give advice for the torque on lug nuts on a dually. Should you use the lug wrench, torque wrench, or air gun ... and will the air gun make it too tight to fix a flat w/ on the road? thanx.
 
I don't know what the value is supposed to be for a dually, but ALWAYS use a torque wrench, and NEVER use anything but a torque wrench. You can get a Craftsman for about $75 to keep in the truck.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member
 
sully,145 ft/lbs on the dually,135 on a single eight lug. I use an air wrench set on low torque to run the lug nuts down then a torque wrench in a criss-cross pattern to the final torque. Another trick is to cut part of the male end of a cheap socket extension off for an adaptor and use a cordless drill to run the nuts down. Antiseize on the lug bolts is also a good idea.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 02-19-2001). ]
 
OK, I realize that I am a horrible person, but I use the gun on the Blazer rims all the time. I end up switching the tires on it somewhat often, as I run 35s on the street and 39. 5 on beadlocks off road. I lightly run up the first 2 or 4 and then zap all of them, using a criss cross pattern.

The Dodge has aluminum rims, therefore I lightly run them up with the impact and then get out the torque wrench.

Flame on,

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits
 
Pete,I do the same on a four stud coupe,but not on my Dodge. Main danger when zapping them down with an impact is warping the brake rotors. I watched a tire monkey at a local tire shop hammer down dually lug nuts one at a time,in a circle. I didn't say anything though,it was a PSD.
I watch them the whole time when it's my truck though,most times they even ask what I want them torqued to,wonder what would happen if I wasn't there?
 
I try to avoid letting anyone tough my truck, when I have to take it somewhere I watch them like a hawk. I also know enough guys who work at shops that I can usually take it to someone I know. The rims I have would be easy to gouge if you put a deep socket on them too far.

Pete
 
Took mine to Discount Tire once last fall, cause I was lazy. Was really surprised when they actually used a torque wrench. #ad


Best part was the price... FREE!!! #ad


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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 anti-spin, 265-75-16 LTX’s (There ain’t no such thing as options, cause ya gotta have it all, including: DC’s dead cow/vinyl interior and don’t stop anti-lock brakes. ) Stock, but not for long. Oops, too late. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)
 
Does the anti-seize on the studs change the torque values? I remember some torque values in the past that specified "wet"/"dry" values.

When I rotated my tires for the first time at around 10K two of my wheels where starting to bond with the mounting surface on the discs. In the old days when we mounted mag type wheels we used to wire brush the mounting surface and apply a little anti-seize to the contact surface. Is that a good idea with the truck?

One more question. Does anyone know the specs on the studs? One of my studs was slightly munged and I think I might want to buy a die to clean it up. Can't afford the whole set right now.

Thanks,

Dave D

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2001. 5 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and transmission Temp in an Autometer Dash Pod, Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless
 
I use a light coating of grease on the hub surfaces to prevent corrosion. I always wipe the surfaces and reapply the grease when rotating wheels. The first time I rotated wheels the rear brake drums were already stuck to the hub. Had to hammer them loose. Can't help you with the stud spec. I torque to 145 ft-lb.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.
 
Just finger tight 'em...


It's amazing how many tools can fit under the back seat... including a torque wrench.

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2001, 3500, 5sp, 3. 54LS, 4x4, pyro and boost on the A-pillar, 165 watt backup lights, Thomas powered on-board air system, Grovers.
 
I carry a two foot long piece of 1. 5 inch PVC pipe under the back seat with my torque wrench to use as a leverage bar. I rotate my on tires on our dulley and without the PVC pipe that torque wrench will wear you a** out torquing down those lug nuts to 145 pounds.

Wayne
 
The 145 number is what everyone does, I assume because that's what the books say... BUT...

The lug nuts have 129 printed on them. Hmmm.

I torque mine to 129 since that's what's printed on the nuts.
 
When you add anti sieze to the threads you need to back off the torque number about 15%. I'm not sure of the exact percentage. The manual gives a range for the 2500 of 120 to 150 ft lbs. , and for the 3500 130 to 160 ft lbs. I use anti sieze and go to the lower range of 125 ft lbs on my 2500 4x4. I was nervous because of the aluminum wheels, and didn't want to eat up the seat with the cone style nuts. I've never had a lug nut loosen yet.
 
Illflem,
Why is there so much difference in lug nut torque between 1st & 2nd generation duallies?
I'm pretty sure that the torque called for on my 93 is 325 ft/lbs, not 145.

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93 Maroon/Gold D350 CC Dually,5sp,LE trim, A/C,Raven cab height w/contractor side windows, PW inj. , K&N in OEM housing w\altered added inlet, class IV receiver hitch, Maroon cloth 60/40 '97 F150 bench seat, KYB shocks,& behind the seat,not yet installed: Moog upper & lower ball joints, PST poly graphite upper & lower control arm bushings and Praise Dyno Brake pads & shoes.
 
One thing to watch out for is if you have center caps that install from the backside of the rim.
Whenever you replace them with new ones(tend to rust out)you will need to retorque the nuts after 25 or so miles,it takes awhile for the new center cap to seat in,it's a smash fit.
 
Mel,325 ft/lbs is about what most tractor/trailers call for. Seems like a lot to me for our little trucks,the lug bolts would need to be much larger to take that kind of torque. Wonder if you have a misprint,I'd be afraid of breaking the studs with that much torque.
 
I always take mine to Wally Mart. $6 to get them rotated, and they use a torque wrench. I also watch them closely. This is the only thing I trust them with.

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Y2K, 2500, 4x2, QC, 3. 54 LSD, Auto, patriot blue. K&N, silencer ring put back in. 14000 miles as of 1-05-01. best milage:28. 5 mpg. transmission reflashed
 
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