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Just received my Lukes Link track bar rebuild kit today in the mail. Just looking at it it looks like it is made heavy enough. Now to just get the time to replace it before we leave on vacation the end of July, seems like a ways off but with all of the other things that need to be done before then time runs out very quickly. Well enough rambling.



Paul
 
To slow

DTAUG beat me and yes $50 to your door via USPS.

A quick question to thoughs that have pulled the track bar using the pitman arm puller. How are you using the puller:eek: now that everybody is back in there chair from laughing so hard, are you hooking the mount and pushing the stud out of the mount or what?



Thanks,

Paul
 
I just installed Lukes Link this weekend. Great product. I used a pickle fork and 4lb. hammer on the tapered joint. 4 blows and it came apart. My trouble was with the 18mm nut on the other end. It has a nut on the back side that I think is supposed to have a weld tab on it so that a back wrench is not required. Well, no tab on mine. The whole assembly turned. Problem is, it is up in this little hole that nothing that will fit the nut will go through. The solution is to use a 4"(small) adjustable wrench. Close it down, slip it up into the hole, and then expand it around the nut. It just barely fit the hole, and it just barely was big enough for the nut. Good luck!
 
Timely thread, I looked at the Luke's Link and the Lindstad Alignment repair and chose the LA kit. Reason, the LA kit uses threaded adjustment for future wear compensation. The LL uses washers to take up wear. Both should work great, just seemed to me that the Lindstad system would be a little more precise. It did however cost about $20 more.



I haven't received mine yet, ordered eairler this week. Will report when I get it installed.
 
Lukes link installed

Got the kit installed today, did not take long everything came apart relatively easy and the kit went on as instructed and the best part is it worked. No more excessive steering and wondering down the road. The products in the kit are of good quality and easy to install.



Paul
 
Well, I installed the Lindstat repair kit yesterday. It's a quality kit, took about 1. 5 hours to do the RR and install the kit. The frame did spread in the process of doing the RR, a friend turned the streering wheel to the right (engine off so we could talk)while I reinstalled the left hand end of the trackbar when everything lined up. Easy deal.



I see Paul has installed his Lukes Link, but to answer his question for others benefit, I used a Pitman arm puller, had to remove a small strut located on the frame to get the puller in place, this was after I had removed the castle nut, turned it upside down and reinstalled it so the top side was even with the end of the ball stud. It pushed the tapered ball stud out with only a couple of pulls on the ratchet handle.



I trust everyone knows this, but just in case; you need a welder, bench vise, and a small angle head grinder to do this repair.



Best part is, this worked. Cost was $62 for the kit, plus $5. shipping, total $67. Now, to adjust for future wear, I remove a easly accessed cotter pin, and turn a adjustment plug to take up the wear. A five minute job.



At 80, 000 miles my truck had started having a slight lurching feel on low speed left hand turns. I was afraid the front u-joints were going bad, but after reading all the post about the track bar, decided to try this first. Now, no more lurch and it seems to drive better in all other situations as well.



Please forgive the fragmented nature of this post, but one last point; my truck had a zerk on the trackbar from the factory and I had kept it greased. On disassembly there was no noticable wear, go figure.



Ronnie
 
DT Pro Fab

I decided to go with DTs Track Bar. I was amazed at the difference it made. I changed over to this at only 1500 miles. This bar comes with a bracket for locating the straight bar at the frame. No more flexible tie rod end cheese ball design to deal with. I now have a heim joint at the frame and urethane bushing at the axle and I have the axle centered, cant do that with stock. If you are using a leveling kit, you can center your axle. If either end wears out i can rebuild it for $40.
 
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