Mag-Hytec diff cover clearance

[rweis]

Installed a Mag-Hytec diff cover.



With the spacer necessary for the 2x4 3500 Dana 80 install went very smoothly.



On a different TDR thread a member suggested loosening the spare tire and pulling it toward the rear of the truck. I used a small tiedown strap to pull it back with. Provided about 1" clearance which would not have been there otherwise.



Loaded the 5er on tonight, checked the clearance before and after loading the hitch. Clearance was fine.



One note about the install.



On my 2002 3500 2x4 (born on date 01 2002) the extra hole that I was going to have to drill in the sway bar bracket was already there from the facotry.



For 2x4 make sure you get the spacer block kit.



Looks great. Fit was surpurb. Just follow the instructions. Easy.



Bob Weis



ps You do know that according to the 2002 DC owners manual YOU have to change the diff fluid to synthetic IF you PULL ANYTHING! Now who the heck is going to buy a 3500 and NOT tow something? ATBGO (And The Beat Goes On)

 

[VicR]

Bob,



I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 99 2x4 with the Dana 80. Where is the extra hole supposed to be? I was curious if I already had it too.



Also, how much fluid did you end up adding when all was said and done?



Any other tips you have for this project?



Thanks,



-Vic

 

[rweis]

Vic,



The extra hole:



On the passenger side sway bar bracket, the factory mount of the sway bar was as far forward as possible, the "kit" will put it as far rearward as possible. When you loosen the sway bar on the passenger side I had 3 holes. One hole was far forward and was for one leg of the existing sway bar mounting system. The next toward the rear hole was actually an elongated hole about 1/2 " in elongation. I figuer that the factory hole was that way to make it easy so tht they can slam in the bolt bracket and only worry about hitting the forward hole and know the next hole has pleanty of room. The rearward hole is like the most forward one, a single standard hole.



Oh, you have to take the shock bolt out. If you don't put the shock bolt back in BEFORE you bolt the sway bar back on you have to put the shock bolt in from the other side. My shock bolt needed to be ground off about 1/8" for clearance to the sway bar. IF I had done it before I bolted the sway bar then it could have gone back the way it came out.



The way it worked on mine was the block has its holes drilled. They supply 2 bolts. The block holes lined up with the rearward hole and the rearward portion of the elongated hole, and therefore I did not have to drill anything. Made it really simple. I checked alignment of the sway bar with the axle and with the block they were parallel. I did not have to remove the sway bar arm from the frame, just push it around to where you need it to go.



I wanted Royal Purple 75w-140 and it is nto available in central FL so I ordered it fron www.oiltown.com. They sell just about every conceivable oil and ship it to your door. The price was cheaper than some of the full synthetics at the loca Discount Auto even considering the shipping. I think the $$ were about $60 for 12 quarts + a standard $10. 75 shipping anywhere in the US. Total was $70 for 12 quarts or about $6 /quart.



The instructions say 8 quarts, I put in 7 1/2 and am going to check it probably tommorrow. I did not have to get any special fluid filler tube or anything. There was PLEANTY of room for the quart bottle turned upside down with the nozzle snipped off about 1/4". Was a pretty quick fill too.



I think I did make one mistake. Once youhave the cover off and drained, I think you are suppose to jack up each axle out at the wheel to drain the fluid in the axle back to the middle. I did not know that and maybe did not get as good a drain as I could have, if that is right in the first place, I don't know.



There are two option for the factory stamp marks on the sealing surface of the axle housing. One is RTV the other is J. B. Weld. I did the JBWeld. You only need the total amount of about the amount of 2 grains of rice. The JBWeld takes 24 hours to cure so you have to crank that time into the equation if you go that route. The RTV is immediate, but you have to do thateach time to take the cover off (which may be never?). The overfill of the JBWeld will need to be filed smooth. Just take your time with a long flat file, I use a very fine tooth file to remove the minimum material per stroke.



My cover fit perfectly, torqued it and not a single drip.



Anything else I can help with?



Bob Weis

 

[Mad Bomber]

Mag cover

I also have a 4X2 with the mag cover lookin good . Eric

 

[Okie-Go]

I too have one. I also used the tie down strap trick. Barry told me about it. Looks good on the rig.

 

[roadranger]

Yep, on my 4x4 with a camper on board I noticed rub marks on the Mag-Hytec.



Had to use a ratchet strap to pull the spare rearward more to get clearance. Oo.

 

[VicR]

One more question:

One more question: Any trouble getting the stock cover off? I have heard they can be a beast to get off.



-Vic

 

[John Berger]

Originally posted by Vic R

Bob,



I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 99 2x4 with the Dana 80. Where is the extra hole supposed to be? I was curious if I already had it too.



Also, how much fluid did you end up adding when all was said and done?



Any other tips you have for this project?



Thanks,



-Vic

I've got a 99 also. I'm not remembering this extra hole. I do know that my shock bolt is inverted. I didn't realize it until everything but the cover was installed. I didn't feel like un-installing everything so I left it that way. It's never given me a problem. The max capacity with that cover is 8 quarts.