I'll answer both threads.
The blown up battery:
The driver side battery probably was low on electrolyte and the level got low enough to uncover the plates in one or more cells. The cell(s) shorted causing lots of heat, Hydrogen and boom.
If possible (not easy on sealed batteries) check the fluid level in each cell and add some steam distilled water if necessary. On these no maintenance batteries, the level only needs checking every few years unless the charging system, in the truck, is overcharging (boiling out) the battery. To check the charging system, start the truck, put on everything that draws current, i.e., high beams, AC with blower on max, window/mirror heaters, etc., and measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a volt meter, the reading should be approximately 13.8 to 14.3, depending on temperature. Now turn off all the current consuming devices except the engine and measure again. The reading should be within that range. Too low or too high, have the charging system looked at by someone competent in electrical repairs.
Cold Winters:
The capacity of lead-acid batteries is temperature dependent. Cold reduces their capacity, for example, a battery at 72ºF fully charged has 100% of its current capacity to start your truck. At 0ºF it only has 50% of its capacity, hence why we have two batteries. The battery's internal resistance goes up as the temperature goes down. When it comes to charging voltage, colder temperatures mean higher charging voltage. I have measured my truck, in the warm weather the voltage is about 13.8, in the cold weather it is closer to 14.3. The engine computer is connected to a temperature sensor under one of the two batteries and sets the charging voltage (alternator output) accordingly. A trickle charger whose output is about 13 to 14 volts would not overcharge the batteries no matter what the temperature.
Happy starting!