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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Major missing/knocking

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If you can see scratches in the Cast Iron Cylinder wall wait till you pull the Aluminum piston and see what it looks like.
 
Yes you can do it inframe. I built a new motor a few years ago and got a bad set of rings from total seal, I removed the head and pan and pushed out all six pistons and rods. I even honed all six holes to freshen up the crosshatch so the "good" rings would seat. you have to be creative to hone the back hole, but if you use a ball type hone and cut the shaft real short using a 3/8 cordless drill you can reach into the back 2 cylinders. If you do this DO NOT HIT the piston cooling nozzles they will break off. My guess is that a plugged nozzlr may have caused your problem so be sure to check them if you rebuild it.



Josh www.dieselperformancesolutions.com
 
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The block's gotta come out to fix that cylinder, so I guess it don't matter about the in-frame :( It is awful tight under there.



Thanks, Steven
 
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Lookin for knowledge here,, Along with Jason about thiose pistons,,



Also,, 1)why doya think the bearing lost its oils supply? 2)Given it did why did the piston get destroyed? 3) The crank does not look too bad,, is it salvageable?
 
From What I can see, The crankshaft & bearings look fine. There is some wear on the bearings, but nothing abnormal. (Yeah, I missed the Diagnosis on this one)





From What I have seen, The piston top looks pretty typical for a Diesel piston, But wow that side view looks bad.



Does this engine Have piston cooling Nozzles? Do All/Any 12V's have them in?



Possible Failures : bad/Plugged piston cooling Nozzle(if Equipped), Or, By reading the original post, we see that the previous owner had a KDP problem that he had driven for a while. It is possible that It was ran with the oil level way to low. I suppose the other possibility would be that it just failed. Sometimes things like this happen. I Hope this answers some of your questions, P.
 
yeah, everything looks good except for that skirt and rings looks a little outa wack.



But I never seen a piston that clean from the top! :)
 
Here's a good one of the cylinder and piston cooling nozzle

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Will know more when I get the block out and check the piston cooling nozzles, right now I am guessing about the same as ya'll, plugged cooling nozzle, or just one of them things. Could be too much fuel, but wouldn't the top of the piston be melted??



Thanks, Steven
 
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I have seen this problem on two different trucks, one was a bus that was over heated due to being low on water and it looked exactly the same. THe other did this on number 3 because a cooling nozzle was broken off and the port was plugged for some reason. It is good you caught it in time the motor that burnt #3 got into the block about . 050 and had to be sleeved to get it back in tolerance.



Josh



www.dieselperformancesolutions.com
 
Well, I finally got the block completely bare. And got to the root of the problem.



The #5 piston cooling nozzle was plugged, there was definitely no oil going through this sucker :eek: Rest were fine. It was plugged with either hard plastic or a non-ferrous metal (aluminum?). Wonder where this came from?



Thanks for all the help.



Steven
 
Could it be that the oil filter changes have included filling the filter with oil before installation? If so, there are threads on this site that indicate the risk of getting bits of the aluminum foil seal from the oil container into the oil filter. This then can get into the oil system unfiltered and plug small passages. I suppose it would also be possible to get bits of the plastic oil container in the system as well. Do a search on it and you may find some pertinent information.



Sorry for your trouble!



Gene
 
Wow I guess I'e had a comeuppance! I always thought that Piston cooling was only needed when the engines were worked hard. Like High boost and EGTs.



Of course I guess I dont know how this engine was run before.



Brain isn't full yet and it's a good thing too!
 
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