Major oil filter problem

[KEpperly]

Im sure im the only one that had this problem. Just did an oil change on my vibrating lemon. I tightened the oil filter as tight as possible by hand then a half turn with the wrench and it was leaking oil all over the palce about 2 gallons down my drive way. i then go to walmart (in my other car) and get 3 more gallons of oil and a new (****y fram) filter tighten it up all the way, drain the rest of the old new oil and pour in 3 more gallons same problem oil spilling out where the filter mounts. So i take the pass inner fender out and get 5 more full turns on the filter with some giant channel locks. What the hell could be my problem here. In order to tighten this filter it has way more turns then any other filter i have ever done or seen in my life. Not to mention it spun on the normal amount before the five extra turns. Im going to change the filter again and look for problems tomorrow but i was already late and this extra hour here wasn't helping me No the rubber from the previous filters was not left be hind. and no i didn't cross thread the filter but if i need to change my oil like this i will just light it on fire soon after i get back from my Massaging ride to and from south carolina

 

[Simplysmn]

Well number 1 Never run a Fram filter on your truck there Junk for a diesel engine I Always run a dodge filter and have never had any problem's maybe it's the filter ? good luck on finding out what it is Man .

 

[KEpperly]

guess i should be more clear i never run frams but on a sunday at 6 pm ill try what i can get. the frist filter was not a fram but my fav K&N and i don't care if they suck i just like the 1 inch nut on the bottom of them. deffinitly not a problem with the filter. do the treaded parts on the filter housing (the thing mounted to the block) have problems backing out. when i first started it i figured i didn't tighten the filter but to my surprise it was 1/2 wrench tight. since i tried tightening it first and it was tight I thought it was the filter so i went out and got another one and alot more oil. but i still had the same problem. Just to make this eaisier im just a back yard mec but I did mange to build a 10 sec car in it to so i have learned alot over time and am very capable.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

The write-up sounds like a few too many turns may have taken place.
Briefly stated from the manual:
1, Fill filter with same type of oil to be used in the engine;
2. Apply light film of oil to sealing surface before installing filter;
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort the threads or damage the filter element seal.
3. Install the filter until it contacts the sealing surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an additional 1/2 turn,

I have been able to put, by hand, 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns on a filter after sealing surface contact. Getting the darned filter off during the next oil change was a challenge. If you are cranking it as tight as you can by hand then mechanically adding 1/2 turn you are in a major over-torque situation. The filter can be tweaked way out of shape. With a really hefty case of "gorilla grip" you can even wreak havoc on the threaded boss and possibly damage or $trip the aluminum oil filter adapter. Hopefully the oil filter will be the weak link.
I know I learned my lesson years ago - tighter is not necessarily better.

BJ

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

If you had someone to assist in starting the engine you should easily be able to see where an oil geyser of that size is coming from - gasket, filter housing, adapter, etc.

BJ

 

[RWinzen]

I've been running Fleetguard filters since 1995, nothing else. We currently have 2 - '03s and 1 - '04, spin the filters on by hand and have never had this issue. I have never needed a wrench to remove them either.

 

[HBarlow]

I would go to a local Cummins or Dodge dealer and buy the proper filter. Remove the Fram filter and throw it away immediately and promise never to buy another one, inspect the threads and mounting surface for double gasket, or debris. Clean the threads and mount surface, and install the Cummins/Dodge filter hand tight only.

 

[Jim W]

I also have seen over tighten filters on engines and they will leak, once they leak you can never tighten them to stop leaking. The threads are an interference fit for tightening, once spread they will not tighten. You could have also damage the threads on the oil adapter, on the engine from over tightening. These will need to be checked for the proper thread gage and pitch to ensure that the a new filter will thread on properly and tighten correctly.

The heavy equipment manufacturing company that I worked for before retirement even specified a low assembly torque for proper filter tightening on the oil filter install. This is to ensure that the filter was never over tighten and to insure leaks would not occur from over tightening and damaging the threads on the filter and adapter on the engine.

Good luck

 

[EB]

I'm sure you have checked, but did the rubber gasket from the original filter stay stuck to the housing. As many times as you turned it, it sounds like that might be the problem and you can turn it as tight as you want, it will still leak. Pull the last one you put on and see if there is one (rubber gasket) still struck on the filter housing.

 

[KEpperly]

Guess no one likes to read this where i said "No the rubber from the previous filters was not left be hind. and no i didn't cross thread the filter " I do check this every time i change the filter along with wiping off the matting surface to make sure everything is ok.



The fram was removed with . 000001 miles may be less. it was put on to move the truck from the bottom of my drive way to the top.

You guys are all really against fram filters but i like it over nothing so I can keep oil in my motor.



Maybe i did overtighten it, but i don't think so as the one that came off the first time came off with the braking the seal and it just spun off by hand. I need a wrench as im very week or it will leak.

The leaking problem was caused by the filter being very far away from the mating surface. Deffinitly not leaking from being tight.

it was a $60 dollar water fall pouring from the filter adapter. to the filter gap.

The treads look really good. Of the 80% I can see really well the far back treads feel ok to the finger nail test. I did not check the tread pictch as i do not have the proper tool.

the 3rd new filter treaded on smooth almost all the way but then gets real tight before it can seal.

After looking at it I think the smartest thing to do is just buy a new filter adapter

 

[B.G. Smith]

Bet you are going to have a hard time finding a new adapter. It (the threaded adapter) must have unscrewed when you removed the original filter and didn't screw back in when you installed the new ones. Usually the screwed adapter has a hex shoulder between the filter threads and the threads that screw into the housing on the engine. If you can get to it you might try removing it and see, the threads might just be crossed there. bg

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

KEpperly,
You can try looking at the threads with a small mirror and flashlight for a visual of the threads. Also, get a nut the same size and thread pitch as the filter boss and run it up as far as you can to see if it goes all the way to the top. If it binds before running the full length of the boss (oil filter adapter) the threads are probably damaged and will require a new adapter if it can be purchased separately. Gen 2 oil filter adapter part # is 4429 355 (from the '02 Parts catalog). I don't know if it is the same for a Gen 3. Hopefully it's not the threads in the oil filter head that the adapter screws into.
Good luck with your fix.

BJ

 

[BILLUA]

Guess no one likes to read this where i said "No the rubber from the previous filters was not left be hind. and no i didn't cross thread the filter " I do check this every time i change the filter along with wiping off the matting surface to make sure everything is ok.

Hey, sorry. Some of us put 14 hour days in and maybe miss something in a post... Honest mistake trying to help out.

However, your continued insistence on using a Fram is the real mistake.

The reason Frams are specifically not recommended for these trucks is because the materials it is made out of break down under the corrosive elements found in diesel oils.
But hey, it's your truck!

Good luck

 

[BrianJ]

Ok enough on the Fram folks. While I agree on the thoughts shared on the Fram (and K&N) filter media, he only put on the Fram to get by because of the severe leak with the original filter. Also, while much has been discussed on the filter MEDIA of Fram filters, I have never heard of an issue with them threading up properly or leaking such as the OP is experiencing.



It seems to me you are having issues due to severe over-tightening of your filters, as many turns as you are adding with a wrench you could have easily damaged the threads and filter base. 3/4 turn is all that is needed once the filter gasket touches the mounting base, much more than that and the filter is getting over-tightened.



In the future, to assure you get the proper fit and filtering capacity, you may want to source the fleetguard stratapore filters witch have a "fluted" bottom which will accomodate a filter ratchet head ($5 from the local auto parts store) for easier removal (as stated, no matter how weak you shouldn't need help via mechanical means to tighten the filter).