Making it reliable

[nymustang50]

Alright I'm trying to get ideas of what to do to make my truck last and make it reliable and efficient to last awhile and to make me aware as well of things going on with it. What I have is a 2003 2500 that I bought with 114k Miles when I bought it from a friend of mine he told me what he done to it and everything. So I'm not worried about the transmission or engine it self ill more or less worry about that bridge when I come to it. What my questions are geared for are do I need or should I get a fuel pressure gauge and a rail pressure gauge and what setup is best the banjo bolt or the filter cap one. Like I said its a 03 2500 auto its already got the pyro and boost and trans temp gauge Firestone air bags in the rear I know to use the Baldwin fuel filter in the stock location and the Fleetguard LF16035 oil filter and Valvoline premium blue. So I think I'm heading on the right track there so far. The previous owner had some fuel issues with the truck ended up having the retro fit for having the fuel pump moved from the filter to in-take design done (is that a good setup for what I plan and have going for me) btw the fuel issue wasn't solved ended up being the FCA. So do you recommend fuel gauges both or just a high pressure? If both how do you recommend the low pressure one be hooked up. My plans with the truck are to add injectors/nozzles(50/60hp tips) and arson 3 kit and a turbo down the road and a smarty and get rid of the predator i currently have and look into doing the cat 2 micron fuel filter setup as well as the stock location one.

 

[ENafziger]

Welcome to the site! Great to have you here!!!

Well, here's my opinion, which may or may not be what you're looking for.

First, you've got a great looking truck!!!

Second, if you're truly interested in reliability, don't add power! Especially, don't increase rail pressure. Increasing timing will increase in-cylinder pressure and pressure rise rates and lead to increased engine wear as well.

For reliability mods, I would stick with filtering upgrades, fluids, etc.

I don't think there's much reliability increase to be had with a rail pressure gauge, but it won't hurt. I have one, but more for performance dialing than anything. A low pressure fuel gauge could be a good idea, and I like the banjo bolt approach.

Go with a good 2 micron fuel filter, and an additional water separator if you'd like. Install a bypass oil filter. Change out all fluids to a good synthetic. Install a coolant filter. Ensure that the fuel tank vent issue has been corrected. Use a quality fuel additive (Amalgamated, Stanadyne, Schaeffer's, or a B2 blend). Install a transmission cooler if you haven't already, and possibly a Mag-Hytec deep pan.

Check head bolt torque. Check valve lash. Install centramatic balancers or Balancemasters on wheels and driveshafts if so inclined. Use a quality Oil Analysis Lab at oil change intervals.

Save your money for a quality ball joint upgrade, and a free-spin hub kit that you'll likely be needing soon.

Consider the DSSS or another sector shaft brace. Investigate air filters closely. The best bet is probably to keep the factory filtering setup. Definately do not go with K&N or the highest flow filter you can find.

Since you have aftermarket wheels, make sure the spur retaining washers have been removed from the wheel studs.

Keep all hinges, latches, working mechanisms, etc oiled. Wash all winter salt/grime from the undercarriage frequently. Keep things underneath coated with paint.

On a side note, keep a close eye on the bushwacker fender flares. They are notorious for rubbing through the paint!

These are not "fun" upgrades, but they should help with the reliability aspect some!

--Eric

p. s. I'm well aware that I've not followed the above path to reliability when it comes to the "don't add power aspect" :-laf

 

[Cosmo]

Forget about the stock fuel filter - get a FASS or AirDog filter/water separator/lift pump.

Vent your crank filter to atmosphere.

Valvoline premium blue CJ-4 is good - if you've got an 07. 5+ and need to keep your DPF clean.
Valvoline Premium Blue Classic CI-4+ is much better for your truck.

Otherwise, run the CJ-4 oil and a good additive package.

Bypass filtration is a good idea too.

 

[TCDiesel]

Fass-Airdog ,Good Pumps their filtration is NO better then rock catchers,My Bank account just kick me in the rear,It loves Fass-Airdog filtration $. Keep the factory can.

 

[nymustang50]

OK things I'm going to be doing as an update. .

Rail Pressure Gauge
Low Pressure side Gauge
Cat Fuel Filter addon
Factory style Baldwin Filter
Check Head bolt torque
Check/adjust Valve lash
Mag-Hytec transmission pan when I change the fluid
EMS offroad Free Spin hub
Coolant Filter
Steering Box Brace

Whats a good oil additive package if I have to go with the CJ-4 Oil?

What if I go with Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil? What change interval?

Oil Bypass Amsoil BMK25-EA or Amsoil BMK21-EA? What change interval with filters?

Whats this Fuel Tank Vent issue?

Power Service Diesel Kleen good?

Another Transmission cooler? if so what?

Moog ball joints?

Venting Crank filter to Atmosphere?

Do I need a Fass or AirDog pump with future plans of Arson 3/50-60 tips/bigger turbo/smarty?

I have AFE intake filter setup with ProGuard 7 filter and pre filter installed already on truck.

 

[amsoilman]

Whats a good oil additive package if I have to go with the CJ-4 Oil?



What if I go with Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil? What change interval?



Oil Bypass Amsoil BMK25-EA or Amsoil BMK21-EA? What change interval with filters?

In my opinion, DO NOT use ANY oil ADDITIVE, as any of the high quality oils already have the ADDITIVES they need!

Iwould also recommend using the Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil, and do oil analysis between 10K and 15K intervals if you go with the By-pass system, otherwise change the oil every year, if you don't install the by-pass system.





I would highly recommend the Amsoil BMK-21 by-pass, and use the EaBP-100 Element, along with the EaO-80 "FULL-FLOW" filter. These two filters are very high quality and very highly efficient filters(FULL-FLOW is 98. 7% Efficient At 15 MICRONS. EaBP-100 is rated at 98. 7% efficient at 2 MICRONS)



The BMK-21 by-pass remote mount can be mounted behind the front bumper on the passengers side, and the oil pressure supply can be connected to the OEM Filter mount on the engine, using the extra port, which is already driled and tapped. The return line from the BMK-21 can be connected to the oil fill cap using a Billit Aluminum after market cap from Amsoil(BK-1301). this cap will allow the oil to return to the engine, as well as provide a very good for drawing oil for oil sampling.

I have been doing this routine since 1991 on the Dodge/Cummins trucks I have owned, and have never had any issues whatsoever.

 

[nymustang50]

In my opinion, DO NOT use ANY oil ADDITIVE, as any of the high quality oils already have the ADDITIVES they need!

Iwould also recommend using the Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil, and do oil analysis between 10K and 15K intervals if you go with the By-pass system, otherwise change the oil every year, if you don't install the by-pass system.





I would highly recommend the Amsoil BMK-21 by-pass, and use the EaBP-100 Element, along with the EaO-80 "FULL-FLOW" filter. These two filters are very high quality and very highly efficient filters(FULL-FLOW is 98. 7% Efficient At 15 MICRONS. EaBP-100 is rated at 98. 7% efficient at 2 MICRONS)



The BMK-21 by-pass remote mount can be mounted behind the front bumper on the passengers side, and the oil pressure supply can be connected to the OEM Filter mount on the engine, using the extra port, which is already driled and tapped. The return line from the BMK-21 can be connected to the oil fill cap using a Billit Aluminum after market cap from Amsoil(BK-1301). this cap will allow the oil to return to the engine, as well as provide a very good for drawing oil for oil sampling.

I have been doing this routine since 1991 on the Dodge/Cummins trucks I have owned, and have never had any issues whatsoever.

I plan on if I do start using that Amsoil to go about 9k miles on the oil before changing it and replace the main full flow at that time then change the bypass one ever other.

 

[rscurtis]

The '03 and '04 trucks are very easy on the oil compared to the later 5. 9 and 6. 7 engines. If you want to change your oil at 9K, save if for something else, as it will have plenty of life in it.



Your CC already vents to the atmosphere, nothing to do there. The fuel tank vent kit allows the hump at the back of the tank to be vented, resulting in an increase of capacity of 4-5 gallons and a quicker fill. As others have mentioned, stick with the stock air filter assembly.

 

[Cosmo]

I have to disagree with the amsoil dealer.

CI-4+ oils were great because the additive package had certain components that were excellent lubricants and detergents - but they are known to clog DPFs on the newer trucks. This is why those great additives were removed from the CJ-4 oils. The older trucks were designed with the great additive packages in the CI-4 oils in mind, and benefit from them being there.

Much like how the truck manufacturers try to put a positive spin on the EGR, DPF, DEF systems when they're really a step backward in reliability and economy, I'd be willing to wager that the oil manufacturers are selling inferior products and claiming that they're better because they have no other choice.


And on the bypass filter thing... I did some research (until I got bored) on the Amsoil system, and decided to go with an FS-2500. What my limited research told me is that people preferred Amsoil's original setup over the newer system, which many seemed to consider a downgrade. I could have gotten the Amsoil quite a bit cheaper, but decided against it.

I'm also going to have to disagree with TCdiesel - you're saying that Fleetgard filters are no good? A 7-10 micron filter is better than a 2 micron filter, when most engine wear (including injection pump and injectors) is due to particles in the ~5 micron range that flow right through the factory filter?

 

[rscurtis]

To be clear, the 15/40 diesel and marine is a CI4+ oil, not the newer CJ4.

 

[amsoilman]

I have to disagree with the amsoil dealer.



CI-4+ oils were great because the additive package had certain components that were excellent lubricants and detergents - but they are known to clog DPFs on the newer trucks. This is why those great additives were removed from the CJ-4 oils. The older trucks were designed with the great additive packages in the CI-4 oils in mind, and benefit from them being there.

I think you should re-read my above post! I did not even mention the CJ-4 oil! The Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine 15W-40 oil is rated as CI+4.

 

[Diesel Thunder]

Nice rig. Welcome.



These are great ideas from others, and here's my take on it...



1) Fuel Tank Vent Issue

--On some trucks from the factory, a small rubber hose was left off of one of the nipples on the top of the tank. This was a serious problem as the location of the missing hose was in an "inset" area on the top of the tank. When water/dirt/snow would collect in this area--this would get into the tank--not good.

--Solution? I got fuel rated hoses and placed on the exposed vents and T'd them together with a cheap fuel filter on the end (this allowed them to breathe and prevented any dirt from entering)



2) Oil: I like CI4+. Like others have said, the CI4+ oil had better additives in it that were not compatible with the 6. 7 DPFs, thus the new CJ4 oils. You can still find plenty of CI4+ oil today (albeit in much less quantities). Just call your local big truck shops/dealers and find out who their oil supplier is and call them. I still buy Shell Rotella CI4+ in 5 gallon buckets. Try to stick with CI4+.



3) Bypass Oil Filter: I like the idea, but haven't yet jumped on it. I change my oil every 5-7K with good oil analysis results. There are many 3rd Generation Cummins Dodge owners that have 300-400K miles on their engines/trucks without a bypass filter--so I have been a little reluctant to mess with a good thing. I am not against them, but I am a little leery of shunting the "blood" of your Cummins through extra lines/fittings etc; however, many members do it all the time, so... .



4) Suspension: I too am going with the solid steel steering brace and plan on a full Carli suspension set up this fall. Use quality suspension components--they are peace of mind down the road. Many here like Carli/Lorenz/Kore components. For ball joints though, I don't think you can do better than Carli's ball joints--although pricey, they appear to have done their homework on these, and I plan to install them this year as well.



5) Fuel Filtering: Like others have said, extra filtering is a very good idea. I went with Glacier Diesel's Fleetguard 2 Micron in addition to the factory 7 micron filter canister. It is a great kit and very easy to install. Clean fuel decreases wear on injectors and prolongs life...



6) Coolant Filter: Great idea and I am adding one this month to mine. I just completed a full flush of the coolant system on mine with approximately 27 gallons of distilled water and then with new HOAT Fleetguard coolant. I strained everything I drained and found a small amount of sand (table spoon amount) like material that was apparently from the casting process during manufacturing. So a pretty good idea in my opinion...



7) Powersteering Fluid: Often neglected. Change it!



Others will chime in... .



Congrats on a great looking truck.

 

[Cosmo]

To be clear, the 15/40 diesel and marine is a CI4+ oil, not the newer CJ4.

I think you should re-read my above post! I did not even mention the CJ-4 oil! The Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine 15W-40 oil is rated as CI+4.

That definitely changes things.



If you have ready access to CI-4+ oil, use it and you won't need an additive.





I never really got on the Amsoil bandwagon but if they've got a relevant product I may just get some. CI-4+ oils seem to be impossible to find locally. I'd attempt to get my local dealer to stock bulk CI-4+, but I get the feeling that they don't care much about the enthusiast market.

 

[ENafziger]

Whats a good oil additive package if I have to go with the CJ-4 Oil?

What if I go with Amsoil 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil? What change interval?

Oil Bypass Amsoil BMK25-EA or Amsoil BMK21-EA? What change interval with filters?

Whats this Fuel Tank Vent issue?

Power Service Diesel Kleen good?

Another Transmission cooler? if so what?

Moog ball joints?

Venting Crank filter to Atmosphere?

Do I need a Fass or AirDog pump with future plans of Arson 3/50-60 tips/bigger turbo/smarty?

I have AFE intake filter setup with ProGuard 7 filter and pre filter installed already on truck. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

As Wayne said, the Amsoil HD Marine 15-40 is a very good oil. If you're pretty much stock, I wouldn't run any additives, as they are not cost effective and won't give gains. If you upgrade to a performance cam someday, you may consider adding 2 bottles of ZDDP per oil change.

Your oil change intervals as well as bypass filtration all depend on what power level you're shooting for. If you remain somewhat stock on power, the Amsoil bypass kit along with Amsoil HD Marine 15-40 should allow you to go with 20k mile + oil changes; however, I'd recommend oil analysis before doing so. If you get larger injectors, Smarty, etc, everything changes. Soot loading will become a problem. You probably will not want to use an Amsoil bypass due to the cost of frequent filter changes. I would recommend 7,500 mile changes and an OilGuard bypass or FS2500 or Frantz. Again, Wayne has given very good advice for stock-like power levels. However, as your power level goes up, your change intervals MUST come down. At the extreme, those over 800 hp will rarely go over 2 - 3k miles without changing. Those over 1,500 hp usually change every 300 feet.

The fuel tank vent was described very well above (the answer by Diesel Thunder).

No, don't use Power Service. It doesn't help with lubricity. You need something to add lubricity if you're running ULSD. Stick with what I listed above. As a side note, I ignorantly ran a PS/MMO mix for about 2 years. I probably did more damage than good.

No, don't go with Moog balljoints. Go with Carli if you can. If not, go with Dynatrac or XRF in that order.

If you're going to go with larger injectors, larger single turbo, CP3 upgrade, Smarty, etc, you should probably have a lift pump upgrade. I personally like the Raptor pumps as well as anything, but AirDog, Fass, etc are good as well. This however is not necessarily conducive to the original intent of this thread (reliability).

--Eric

 

[rscurtis]

The fuel tank vent was almost described well. My '03 did not have any vent on the rear section of the tank. I did once see an '04. 5 that did have the situation you were referring to. If your truck does not have a rear vent, intalling one that tee's into the main vent is a worthwhile addition.

 

[Prairie Dog]

The fuel tank vent was almost described well. My '03 did not have any vent on the rear section of the tank. I did once see an '04. 5 that did have the situation you were referring to. If your truck does not have a rear vent, intalling one that tee's into the main vent is a worthwhile addition.

What does the extra vent do for you? I can use a high-flow pump at OTR truck stations on the highest speed when filling my tank without any trouble.

 

[ENafziger]

What does the extra vent do for you? I can use a high-flow pump at OTR truck stations on the highest speed when filling my tank without any trouble. <!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

Two different vent issues are being confused here.

One involves a TSB on some 3rd gen trucks, where the vent line(s) on the tank were allowing dust/dirt/sand/etc to get into the fuel tank. The fix is to put an inline fuel filter on the vent line.

The second issue being talked about here is a re-routing of the fuel line to eliminate the couple gallon "empty" air space in the top of the tank. Without this mod, you can usually put another 2 or 3 gallons of fuel in very slowly after the pump kicks off. With the mod, the full amount of fuel goes in very quickly, and kicks off when the tank is truly full. The downside, is that if you are on a steep grade or in very hot temperatures immediately after a true fill-up, that some fuel may leak out.

--Eric

 

[Prairie Dog]

Thanks Eric, I have heard of both those issues and I should have read through more carefully. I decided to leave mine as is. With a wife and kid in the truck, I have to stop just about every hour anyway. .
Thanks again,
Scotty

 

[Cosmo]

Yeah I never really understood the appeal of adding a hundred gallons in the bed coupled with a 50 gallon replacement tank.

Ok, so I can now drive 1500+ miles on a single fill up - but I have to use the bathroom, get up and walk around, eat, etc. I don't mind stopping every two to three hours, which is certainly nowhere NEAR 1500 miles.

 

[ENafziger]

Yeah I never really understood the appeal of adding a hundred gallons in the bed coupled with a 50 gallon replacement tank.

Ok, so I can now drive 1500+ miles on a single fill up - but I have to use the bathroom, get up and walk around, eat, etc. I don't mind stopping every two to three hours, which is certainly nowhere NEAR 1500 miles. <!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message -->

It just depends how you use your truck! Many people use their trucks as a truck such that it makes sense. If you're in the transport business, it's hard to make ends meet if you stop every hour or two. I know I've hauled heavy before to the point that I was getting 6. 5 mpg... and that makes for < 200 mile range!

This past July, we took a trip to Alaska, and in preparation I made a 90 gallon auxilliary tank. I sure was glad I did!!! At best, I would've been force to pay over $6/gallon for diesel at remote outposts... and at worst, I would've been stranded FAR from anything if I had simply relied on the stock fuel tank.

--Eric