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Making it reliable

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Welcome to the site! Great to have you here!!!



Well, here's my opinion, which may or may not be what you're looking for.



First, you've got a great looking truck!!!



Second, if you're truly interested in reliability, don't add power! Especially, don't increase rail pressure. Increasing timing will increase in-cylinder pressure and pressure rise rates and lead to increased engine wear as well.



For reliability mods, I would stick with filtering upgrades, fluids, etc.



I don't think there's much reliability increase to be had with a rail pressure gauge, but it won't hurt. I have one, but more for performance dialing than anything. A low pressure fuel gauge could be a good idea, and I like the banjo bolt approach.



Go with a good 2 micron fuel filter, and an additional water separator if you'd like. Install a bypass oil filter. Change out all fluids to a good synthetic. Install a coolant filter. Ensure that the fuel tank vent issue has been corrected. Use a quality fuel additive (Amalgamated, Stanadyne, Schaeffer's, or a B2 blend). Install a transmission cooler if you haven't already, and possibly a Mag-Hytec deep pan.



Check head bolt torque. Check valve lash. Install centramatic balancers or Balancemasters on wheels and driveshafts if so inclined. Use a quality Oil Analysis Lab at oil change intervals.



Save your money for a quality ball joint upgrade, and a free-spin hub kit that you'll likely be needing soon.



Consider the DSSS or another sector shaft brace. Investigate air filters closely. The best bet is probably to keep the factory filtering setup. Definately do not go with K&N or the highest flow filter you can find.



Since you have aftermarket wheels, make sure the spur retaining washers have been removed from the wheel studs.



Keep all hinges, latches, working mechanisms, etc oiled. Wash all winter salt/grime from the undercarriage frequently. Keep things underneath coated with paint.



On a side note, keep a close eye on the bushwacker fender flares. They are notorious for rubbing through the paint!



These are not "fun" upgrades, but they should help with the reliability aspect some!



--Eric



p. s. I'm well aware that I've not followed the above path to reliability when it comes to the "don't add power aspect" :-laf
Eric,is Amalgamated available only through the website? How much is it running you? Thanks.
 
It just depends how you use your truck! Many people use their trucks as a truck such that it makes sense. If you're in the transport business, it's hard to make ends meet if you stop every hour or two. I know I've hauled heavy before to the point that I was getting 6. 5 mpg... and that makes for < 200 mile range!



This past July, we took a trip to Alaska, and in preparation I made a 90 gallon auxilliary tank. I sure was glad I did!!! At best, I would've been force to pay over $6/gallon for diesel at remote outposts... and at worst, I would've been stranded FAR from anything if I had simply relied on the stock fuel tank.



--Eric



Ok... when hauling legally I should say. If you're hitting 6. 5 mpg you're either WOT 24/7 or you're way over weight. :-laf



But traveling in remote areas I can understand it, most guys I see though? City slickers.
 
I have hit 6. 5 pulling My 4 Place Snowmobile trailer Crossing ND,MT,WY,CO,SD 70/75 at times trying to stay ahead of stroms. . The head winds will suck up your wallet and blow all your profits out the tail pipe. . ugh. .
 
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Eric,is Amalgamated available only through the website? How much is it running you? Thanks. <!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

I've personally never run Amalgamated. I've read good things about it in one of the TDR issues, and elsewhere. At the time, it seemed it was only available mail order in larger quantities.

I run Schaeffer's Diesel Treat, and supplement with about 1 gallon of B99 per tank when I can for additional lubricity. I'm sure you've seen the lubricity study on fuel additives that detailed wear analysis. The summary of the study was that a 2% bio blend did more to increase lubricity than any additive available. There are however, many other reasons to used a fuel additive other than increasing lubricity; thus, my use of the Schaeffer's as well.

--Eric
 
I have hit 6. 5 pulling My 4 Place Snowmobile trailer Crossing ND,MT,WY,CO,SD 70/75 at times trying to stay ahead of stroms. . The head winds will suck up your wallet and blow all your profits out the tail pipe. . ugh. .



That's pretty horrible. I averaged about twice that towing a 14k+ pound trailer from Seattle to Tampa, every tank was 11-14 all the way across, speeds kept to 65-70ish.
 
Cold Air is more dense, -0*s couple with 30/40mph head winds = 6-8MPG. Avg 10-13MPG @ 65/70MPH. Avg W/O Trailer 17-20MPG. Best recorded 22. 5 @ 65MPH
 
That's pretty horrible. I averaged about twice that towing a 14k+ pound trailer from Seattle to Tampa, every tank was 11-14 all the way across, speeds kept to 65-70ish. <!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Weight doesn't seem to effect fuel economy nearly as much as aerodynamics. The worst fuel economy I ever got was pulling a 3,000 lb load that was EXTREMELY un-aerodynamic. It was much worse than other loads grossing 25,000 lbs!

Cold Air is more dense, -0*s couple with 30/40mph head winds = 6-8MPG. Avg 10-13MPG @ 65/70MPH. Avg W/O Trailer 17-20MPG. Best recorded 22. 5 @ 65MPH

Great info Todd!

--Eric
 
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