Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Making up for the abuse.

[sparks57]

Ok, so most of us here drive our trucks a lot harder than your average Joe. That being said, what can we do to our truck to make them stand up better?



Such as:

•Engine: good oil, fleetguard filters, bipass oil filter.



•Fuel system: good fuel additive for lubricity.



•Auto transmission: deep pan, auxillary cooler, DTT



•Suspension/etc. : DSS, luke's links



My old truck used to give me a lot of trouble because I poured on the power, but never looked into making the components stand up to it better... and now that I have a new truck, I want to do it right.



So, some thoughts here? I would like to here some discussion on common problem/solutions on 24v trucks and beefing up components to hold more power.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Bombing

Hi Chis, there's lots of things to help you.





1. Always use a additive (IE) stanidine or almagimated

2. The injection pump needs a good flow of fuel, getting rid of those banjo bolts and replacing it with all 3/8 or bigger line. Having a pusher pump will keep the flow going and keep the stock carter running. Better yet those FASS would help.

3. Getting rid of the stock breather bottle so there's no build up of oil in the raditor.

4. Replace the fuel filter every 10K or less

5. I know that they make a DD pan for the transmission



This just a start but it will keep you running for a while. Good luck Eric

 

[Mad Bomber]

Good P-M

Originally posted by Dl5treez

You've pretty well got a good list already. Maintain it as hard as you run it and it'll behave.



Every time I do the basic service (oil change, tire rotation, etc) I spend a couple hours looking everything over, checking for loose stuff, worn stuff, stuff that *might* be starting to give clues of problems, etc. Breaking out the drop lights & mirrors and checking it over thoroughly has helped catch a few problems that were fixed for pennies, compared to what they would've cost if I'd waited until they broke to find the problem.



Could be luck, yes, but anal retentive preventive maintenance has it's advantages. :-laf

Good point

 

[sparks57]

Sounds good guys! Keep those replies rolling!



I'm new to the second gen world, so I'm clueless on everything! Especially the front end... I'm used to leaf springs and everything simple!



Mad Bomber: what's this about a "breather bottle"?

 

[cyborg]

Originally posted by Dl5treez

Maintain it as hard as you run it and it'll behave.

. :-laf

Nicely spoken.

I love driving performance vehicles (Ram CTD is one). I get what I want and drive them hard. But I take care of them and they last.



Iwould rather maintain them at home, than fix them on the road.



Example: Some people don't realize changing power steering fluid prolongs pump life, big time.

I like this site because it collectively educates and shares wisdom learned by other peoples mistakes/misfortunes.



But then again, some people buy a new truck every two years, so why maintain it when you won't have it.

 

[Joe Mc]

CB - Gages, gages, gages. MHO - "fuel psi", "EGT-Boost combo" and especially since you have an auto "trans temp". This would be 1st thing after you've changed all your fluids & filters. This is just MHO as far as the fluids go. I'm guessing you got it at a dealer, regardless, I like knowing what kind of liquids I'm running down the road with vs. guessing that whatever the dealer/previous owner put in will be OK till it's time to change it.



Yes the infamous weak link (auto trans) they're really OK until you start whipping on em, from what I can tell as mentioned by others here. Mine is stock as far as no engine/trans performance mods. However, like any auto high temps and old fluid will do em in, so the DD pan and good new fluid (of the proper type) changed every 30k minimum (if you can hold out that long) will make all the difference.



I think my gages, tri pod A pillar mount, DD pan and muffler eliminator cost me just about $700 +/- from Geno's and a leisurely weekend to install. It's been almost 3 years so I could be off a bit.



Good luck with your 24V.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Bottle

Originally posted by CB_Parker

Sounds good guys! Keep those replies rolling!





Mad Bomber: what's this about a "breather bottle"?

Take the bottle off the front of the motor and extend the line down with 3/4" hose below the front axle. Also take the line off the filter housing and go buy a longer piece and get it below the axle. I tywaped them to the front suspention.

 

[sparks57]

Oh, I see... . thanks Mad Bomber!



Thanks again you guys!



And yeah, I know all about gagues... my first gen was a pretty hot (for a first gen anyways ) so I know what it takes.



This is why I love this place... keep on giving opinions guys!

 

[sparks57]

What about the wildcat kit for reduced stress on LP and VP?

 

[sparks57]

I've been looking through the archives and I STILL have not found any difinitive solution to the LP problem... relocation... pusher pump... FASS... PE 4200...



But no clear answers.

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

No doubt about it... . seat covers

 

[Mad Bomber]

Pusher

Originally posted by CB_Parker

I've been looking through the archives and I STILL have not found any difinitive solution to the LP problem... relocation... pusher pump... FASS... PE 4200...



But no clear answers.

STAY AWAY from the PE Rip even stopped selling because of failier rate. I had the carter pusher pump with AN -6 lines worked for 3 years no problems. IMHO I'd get rid of ALL the line between the tank and VP44.

 

[Sticks]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

I've been looking through the archives and I STILL have not found any difinitive solution to the LP problem... relocation... pusher pump... FASS... PE 4200...



But no clear answers.

That is because they all seem to work OK (PE4200 exception noted. Not all of them are bad, they just had an unacceptable failure rate)



As with anything, every design has it's flaw.



Relocation - cheapest, takes a little creativity to make the bracket and an extension pigtail, still uses the OEM LP. I'd say the failure rate gets cut 75% - 85%.



Pusher pump - Two pumps, if one goes, there is a chance you are still dead in the water, now you have to figure out which pump died. OEM in stock location, failure rate gets cut 75% - 85%.



Fass - very expensive, good replacement fuel supply kit, to new to say anything about reliability yet.



Fuel pumps fail. All of them. The trick is to just keep the frequency down to a minimum. The only way to cure the problem is to get rid of the LP all together and mount the fuel tank on top of the cab so you are gravity fed.

 

[sparks57]

I don't want to turn this into another lift pump thread...



BUT: relocation and reducing the amount of angles and increase the hose size from tank to LP to VP will probably do the trick?

 

[sparks57]

Originally posted by Ol'TrailDog

No doubt about it... . seat covers

Yes! I already notice that I slide my rear across the edge of the seat on entry/exit (these things are TALL!) and I bet it'll wear out the seat quick.



Plus, I work at a laminated beam manufacturing plant right now to save so I can go back to school... and after work I'm covered in saw dust... I HATE getting my seats dirty!