I bolted it to the frame on the drivers side right before it (the frame) starts to curve up for the front end. Nothing was hard about it, just time consuming because there was no proven knowledge on the idea, and no one was for sure if the regulator was needed. Wasn't sure if the pump would be noisy or not, so I put a small piece of rubber between the pump and frame... the pump ended up being very quiet, but quiet to me and quiet to you could be two different things. I removed the factory lift pump (3 nuts and its gone). I cut the power plug in and spliced in some longer wires to run to the new pump... nothing difficult, just a hot and ground wire. I also removed all the banjo bolts (injection pump/fuel filter) on the fuel system and bored the tiny holes out to about twice their original size for better flow.
There are two fuel lines running from the tank to the engine. The top one is RETURN, and the bottom one is SUPPLY. They are aluminum lines 70% of the way to the engine from the tank, then they turn to a plastic line with rubber covers on the outside. I cut and spliced into the aluminum part of the lines. Nothing fancy. I am not going to go with any 1/2" fuel lines. That's too much money, and I have plenty of fuel now, that I need not worry.
Off the top of my head, here is what you will need. Not exactly sure on the NPT sizes (lots of cold and pain medicine in my head right now) but you will get the point.
3 foot of rubber 3/8" fuel line, 2 foot would probably do. I always go big.
10 hose clamps for the 3/8 line.
2 barbed 3/8 "T". One for the RETURN line, and one for the SUPPLY line. I will think of the rest as I type.
BG220 Electric fuel pump (street version) and regulator.
The pump takes two big o-ring style fittings. I dont know what size, I had a couple that worked in my private stock at home. I ended up rigging it up so that the end result was 3/8" barbed fitting on the "IN" side, and 3/8" barbed fitting on the "OUT" side.
The regulator has 3 holes (IN, RETURN, P/O). The "P/O" is a pressure gage port. I blocked this hole off with a pipe plug. On the RETURN and IN holes, I put 3/8" barbed fittings on each.
Cut the bottom fuel line about 6" from the new pump and connect the pump "IN" port and bottom line with a couple hose clamps and 7"-8" of rubber fuel line. On the "OUT" side of the new pump connect it and the other side of the bottom line you just cut with more rubber hose and hose clamps. You now have plumed the pump inline with the "SUPPLY" line to the engine.
Go forward about a foot and cut the SUPPLY line again. Put a barbed 3/8" "T" in place utilizing the rubber hose and clamps again. With the "T" facing up, run a rubber hose from it to the "IN" port of the regulator, which is mounted between the RETURN and SUPPLY lines to the engine. Now go to the "OUT" port of the regulator and run some hose up to the "RETURN" line. On that "RETURN" line cut it and plumb in the other barbed "T", and hook the hose from regulator "OUT" to it.
I 'm sure I made it sound more complicated than it needs to be, but all you are doing is putting the pump on the SUPPLY line. Putting the regulator on the SUPPLY line down stream from the pump. Run a hose from the regulator OUT port to the RETURN line. The hardware you use to accomplish this is up to you.
Once you have it all set up, adjust the regulator so that the injection pump sees about 12-13 psi of fuel.
Let me know if you dont get any of this.
------------------
Always ready to help!
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, DDI's, straight piped, boost, pyro and fuel pressure gages, Hot Power Edge, EZ box, race transmission, Barry Grant fuel system, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires, Snap On diamond tool box, Marine Corps window sticker, Semper Fi!
1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple Black, 340 car w/air. Good clean car, super stock springs, Weld Prostars, shaker hood, strong 340 with a 727/4000 stahl, 4. 56... . Bombs away!
NRA Life Member
My Diesel Page
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
