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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission manual hubs

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need advice on next step??

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Body styles

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fuel/wear

It'd just make sense, if all the gears ARENOT spining around, & the extra stress

it'd take off the steering, ie, the cv joints, axle shafts, etc not beinging turned by the wheels... You'd get better fuel econ, & possibly less wear on those

"off -shore" ball joints Dodge uses. ( my ball joints are gone @ 40 K)

so, ANYONE know any source for lock out hubs?> Please?
 
i saw an article in 4wheelparts mag i think that went over the conversion. I though it was pricey as well, but then again on both my trucks i have axle disconnects so except for the inconvience factor when the vacum lines need replacing i was not that intrested.
 
the mpg gain will be marginal at best. your driveshaft isnt always turning, as mentioned. (unless you are calling the U-joints in the axle "CV joints", which they are not. . the front driveshaft uses a CV. . ) the drivers side stub turns, and the spiders usually take up the movement. It does not turn the driveshaft.

Off road unlimited had the first kit. it is like 1700 for the conversion, but you still have the crappy dodge axles (not really dana 60 axles!!). You can do the upgrade, and with the 35spline 1. 5" real dana 60 shafts, its like 3,000$. I have seen high pinion ford axles in a few dodges, and that is what Im gonna do when the time comes. Pretty much any dana 60 ford axle from the 70's and up should work, with a little cuttin and welding of spring mounts. Just stay away from the dana 50 in the super duty's, its not much better than ours.

the kits do use real wheel bearings, though. not the crap unitized stuff we have now.

--Jeff
 
I dunno what everyone always complains about. I've had all three, and this is the best truck, not just motor, of the 3 Ive had.

If you wanna compare front axles, the 60 we have is still better (IMO) than the Dana 50 in the fords. and its way better than the junky IFS in the chevys.

Fords have just as much problem with their unitized bearings than we do.

If you dont like how fast the track bar wears out, go ride in a leaf sprung ford. you'll run back to yours.



anyways, hubs are not needed on our trucks really. the 60 shafts that arent really 60 shafts seem to hold up just fine to the motor. So why should they spend more to make parts overkill??? It works fine for its intended purpose. My only real complaint is the ball joints, and the track bar. those are flaws. But hey, the cummins had an even bigger flaw: KDP. thats still mucho better than replacing injectors in phords. ;)



--Jeff
 
I have heard rumors of being able to swap knuckels with Ford Dana 60's built before 98. You still have ball joints, but would gain a selectable hub and servicable bearings.
 
MKoth said:
I have heard rumors of being able to swap knuckels with Ford Dana 60's built before 98. You still have ball joints, but would gain a selectable hub and servicable bearings.

Now this sounds interesting, anyone have any more info on this?
 
edwardsd said:
KDP?



Only "flaw was Ford, for NOT using Cummins. .

I hear that is susposed to Change come 2007.

I also heard the easter bunny is going to have a alternative marriage with Santa Claus, and starting in 07', they will make a new holiday called Eastmas on August 15th.



Oh yeah, they will use a cummins powerplant in their sleigh.
 
No one has mentioned this, so I figured I should...



Could it be that Dodge doesn't put manual hubs on our Cummins powered trucks (& thus, all their trucks, as most 3/4 & 1T Dodges are Cummins powered) b/c the torque of the Cummins would destroy virtually any manual hub made? As an avid four wheeler for many years, I known that the weakest points in most 4x4s are the manual hubs. In fact, one company sells a product called "hub fuse" that is designed to break before destroying your hubs. Given the ridiculous torque even the earliest Dodge Cummins trucks had, a full-time hub seems like the most logical solution.



Don't get me wrong. Axle companies could build a hub that would stand up to the Cummins, but it would be prohibitively expensive. Frankly, early locking hubs weren't created to save mileage, but to reduce wear & tear on the front axle. Most of the parts then weren't designed to provide continuous service. The stub axles rode in brass bushings or on tiny needle bearings. The u-joints were tiny. Given that both tires turn the same speed most of the time on our Dodges, very little wear occurs in the differential itself, except on the 2 carrier bearings & pinion bearing. The stub axles ride directly in the same bearing that supports the frontend. Now that a substantial front diff is used (instead of a weanie Dana 44 or the like), it should last as well as the rear diff.



In my book, the only reason to consider manual locking hubs would be if you installed a limited slip front differential, such as a PowerLok, Auburn, etc.
 
More then likely the reason that full time hubs are used is cost and simplicity. A quailty manual hub will be much stronger then the CAD set up.
 
sigh

You do bring up a good point, with all the pwr the Cumminshas, I doubt if it'd ever notice if the hubs were spining or pulling the diff or anything.

I remeber that Milemaker @ on time, made a "limited slip" type goodie to use the 4wheel drive on hard suface, was a cool idea, but it didn't sell so it was dropped.

That WOULD have made it eaiser to get all the power to the road.
 
The Dynatrac kits (3 of them) are the best option. They are expensive and will disable the ABS. All the Ford swaps I have seen are F350 axles suspended via leaf springs. If you want something really special look at Fritz's axle . That's pretty much a Ford axle that's been worked over.



With all that said, I don't like our axle configuration either, but it's given me nothing to complain about. I've found it reliable, durable, and quite easy to use. Yeah, the ball joints wear, but I'm with pwerwagn, go ride in a Ford and you'll run back to your link/coil Dodge.
 
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