Here I am

Competition Master Cutoff / Fuel Cutoff

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Competition ODRA Diesel Drag Races June 18

Competition Joe Angilo Comp Racer Close To Passing

Just read the 2005 DHRA rules. I don't pull with DHRA because there not out this way yet, but I would like to lean in that direction. I also don't have much help out here when it comes to seeing other pull trucks in the higher classes. My question is were can I find the items listed below? are they availible through one of the diesel guru's EEP, Haisley, Schied ? if not, and I need to fabricate something, does anybody have a picture ?



Master Cutoff:

A sled- and driver- operated spring loaded emergency air shut off is mandatory. The cable must terminate into a two inch diameter steel ring.



Fuel cutoff:

All trucks must be equipped with a driver operated fuel shutoff capable of blocking fuel flow to the injection pump. A three way dump valve is recommended.



BBD
 
Scotty the three way valve is easly found... Summit/Jegs or others have themusually in the racing parts area with the AN fittings and fuel line stuff



no help on the other ? here sorry



also a parts Mfg. who makes very high end and high quality is Peterson Fluid systems. . I used them for many years on Sprint Car and Super Modified parts . . look here



http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/plumbacc.html
 
Willyslover,



I like those valves! I'm assuming that since you can't run the fuel lines in the cab to the valve, is there a cable that can be run through the firewall to activate the arm? Maybe like a choke cable or something?





I too would like to see some different air cutoff setups and kill switches on a 24V!
 
Last edited:
Scheids rail has an awesome air kill on it. Don't know if anyone has a pic or not.

I imagine it would cost as much as a turbo! :{



The main problem, is getting one that that will work with an air filter. Most set ups have them on the non pressure side, before the turbo, the trouble with that, is if you blow a charger, it may ventilate itself, plus run on your engine oil.



If you put it on the intake side, the shutoff would be much smaller, but slamming shut the intake with a pile of boost, will do bad things to the turbos.



Maybe a BD back off valve would work in conjunction, on that side.



That is another area, that is wide open for innovation.
 
Last edited:
Gary thanks for the link but I was thinking with the P-Pump something electrical to trip the fuel shut off selinod, and I have a switch in the cab for the Haisley aux fuel part already.



I might have to shift into fabrication mode for the air cutoff. Think of the money one could make selling those to the sled pulling guru's :D



BBD
 
Here is the Guilitine (sp?) shutoff we use on YE OLDE FORD :D

photo page

I can make and sell these also. but theyre easy enough to make. just be sure to have enough spring pressure so it doesn't get part of the way down and get stuck by the vaccum of the charger. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Air shutoff? Photo of Home Made dragster one.

Try this:



I built one that is in the pressure side. Simple butterfly, and snaps shut as soon as the morse cable is pulled and the spring pulls it shut.



Big debate:



Put it on the inlet side of the main (LP) turbo. It slams shut and sucks the compressor wheel into the housing. Maybe.



Put it as close to the engine as possible, and it is in a smaller pipe, and in the event of a turbo failure, the engine should not be able to run on oil.



My Opinion? Either one works fine, but with a P Pump? Run one. Stick one rack without one, and you will have a thrill.
 
The valve that I use looks like a overgrown nitrous solenoid. This valve is available from Kinsler fuel injection. 248 362 1145 Currently I’m testing a larger version , of this electrical valve manufactured by G C valves and will report the results back to NHRA , I am proposing that this fuel valve become mandatory on any diesel engine with a mechanical fuel injection pump . a pull cable is simply not going to pass NHRA’s test of hitting the master kill switch and everything going dead.
 
Pullers tend to rely more on mechanical shutdowns, rather than electronic gizmos.

Of course, we have more power, more boost, more fuel, than drag racers, and are stressing the trucks more.
 
sbentz said:
Try this:



I built one that is in the pressure side. Simple butterfly, and snaps shut as soon as the morse cable is pulled and the spring pulls it shut.



Big debate:



Put it on the inlet side of the main (LP) turbo. It slams shut and sucks the compressor wheel into the housing. Maybe.



Put it as close to the engine as possible, and it is in a smaller pipe, and in the event of a turbo failure, the engine should not be able to run on oil.



My Opinion? Either one works fine, but with a P Pump? Run one. Stick one rack without one, and you will have a thrill.



Scott, how about a dampening the closure rate? That is, a hefty spring guarantees it closes, but a dampener would make it close 'slowly' in, say, 500ms. A 1/2 second should be enough time to control the pressure drop in the intake. Of course, if you've hit the ESO, you've also likely pulled the chutes and maybe even shifted to neutral, and by the time you finish that, the air shutoff has closed anyway, so the 1/2 second isn't much of a delay.



N
 
COMP461 said:
The valve that I use looks like a overgrown nitrous solenoid. This valve is available from Kinsler fuel injection. 248 362 1145 Currently I’m testing a larger version , of this electrical valve manufactured by G C valves and will report the results back to NHRA , I am proposing that this fuel valve become mandatory on any diesel engine with a mechanical fuel injection pump . a pull cable is simply not going to pass NHRA’s test of hitting the master kill switch and everything going dead.



Say, weren't you standing there when McBride was talking with Arnie, Danny Gracia and Eric Lowe about NHRA's lack of air and fuel shutoff requirements for diesels? Have you ordered an air shutoff yet? Just hearing the stories about what happens when a diesel runs away makes me want to install an air shutoff in my grossly underpowered pickup truck *just in case*; I can't imagine any diesel racers with any significant power *not* having an air shutoff.



N
 
I talk with Eric Lowe weekly , I on occasion talk to Danny , but uslay about rules for other gas projects I will have a air shut off in the future , but the fuel is what I’m working on now , still the NHRA RULE book states that the motor should stop running when the master kill switch is pushed in the rear of any race car.
 
Using any air flow "interruptor" is all you need to do. Use a throttle body, an air flap, upstream, downstream, but somewhere. I agree, that the concept that NHRA would like to see is that on any sub 11 second (approx) race vehicle should shut off when the battery disconnect gets hit. That would require an electronically activated Air Interrupt. I am working on a simple way to trigger ours when the battery shutoff is pulled. An electric fuel solenoid valve by itself will eventually shut the engine down, maybe 10-30 seconds later. Not a bad safety idea, though.



I JOKINGLY discussed using a Holley Dominator upstream of the LP turbo, holding it wide open duing the run, and shutting it for emergency, but the issue is getting enough airflow. Would have been cool. I just thought it would be a great conversation piece, a carb on a diesel. The "RE's" would have a head scratch over that one.



RE's? Resident Experts. You know, the hopped up Honda Civic (has a 4" rusty chrome exhaust tip) driving, know it all, that points out all of the components on the diesel engine to his girlfriend who has NO INTEREST at all in any of this, and points to the injector lines, and says that they are the "NOSS" lines, calls the turbos "superchargers" and claims to have the fastest street car in his dorm. Right... The only running car in the dorm.
 
HoleshotHolset said:
Looks like a throttle body...



Accufab makes some nice ones... they ain't cheap, though. $300+



Matt





I had my 12V run away, but lucky for me, it was under the turbo's when it went WOT, even with the key shut off. Chris (www.relentlessdiesel.com) was able to manipulate the TCC, and get the truck stalled.



Good thing for me! That's a new motor with $6K of goodies in it! I think $300 isn't a bad deal at all!!!



Merrick
 
About 2 years ago Jeff had a throttle stick on his race truck at the shop. The results was internal destruction. Changes have been made.



. . Preston. .
 
Back
Top