Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Hello, this forum had the most hits for MaxBrake information, so I am depositing what I have learned. My controller stopped working automatically (the manual lever still worked; also, the display is all but unreadable). Unfortunately, MaxBrake is long gone. I bet there are a few people out there still using one, or wondering what they have and doing an internet search (that is what brought me here). Returning what I learned to the hive.
Unfortunately, I did not write down the Honeywell part number for the pressure sensor; I remember how readable it was at install, I may have even taken a picture of it, but that is gone. Or at least unfindable. I did find the core product line, MLH. https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/pro...ensors/industrial-pressure-sensors/mlh-series
Why? Because I found my connector was not only corroded (at the sensor) but a wiper inside the socket (the sensor has 3 conductor pins) had collapsed. It may have been alright, had I tried to 'calibrate' the controller before replacing the connector, so your mileage may vary. I decided to replace the connector, as this is my Wife's horse carriage puller. Remember pictures and paintings of the horses doing the pulling? Not in my house. The horses ride.
Found that the connector used is commonly used by GM and Ford. You can buy the connector and sockets (sockets are not always included with the connector), crimping tool (you can use a plier, but this is one of those things you will likely use again). Or, you can buy a replacement pigtail. Oh. Napa was pricey, but in my hand that day. Other sources are a lot cheaper, even for name brands, but online means waiting. Napa called it a an EC89 pigtail. Or, another model to search for: ACDelco PT2319. There are at least 2 wire size ranges of connectors. As the MaxBrake wire is Cat5 (or similar) they are 22-24ga. So make sure you get the lighter one. I didn't buy the PT2319, so no idea if that is the smaller gauge wire.
Connector line was originally GM>Deloc>Delphi, now Aptiv. https://ecat.aptiv.com/product/12110192
The term "metri-pack 150" will get you what you are looking for. Get the smaller terminals for the lighter gauge.
A few inches from the end of the original cable two wires are soldered together. Keep that in mind and take a picture prior to replacing the connector. I found the wires thin enough to crimp in the provided (red/pink) connectors in the pigtail kit. YMMV. I also used the 3:1 preglued heatshrink (my rare Harborfreight purchase that works). FWIW, 3:1 heat shrink is much easier to use than the old standard 2:1.
I also took the controller apart to inspect (largely to look for any defects: cold solder joints, smell of smoke) the display and the photocell. There is a write up here to replace the photocell with a 100 ohm resister (adjust as required). I didn't, nor did I find a simple way to identify it (to replace it). The display is stupid cheap (to replace). Also found in another thread on this forum. The photocell keeps the display bright enough for the ambient light (brighter lamp for brighter ambient light). I will likely order the display, even though I suspect the photocell is the culprit (or aging of some other part). The display is literally a plug and pray part.
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product/cfah2002atmijt-20x2-character-display-module
For now, I can shine a flashlight into the slot the manual lever slides in (the photocell is located next to the opening). My Wife will not find this acceptable.
Anyhow, after assembly the unit was not working any better (still no automatic brakes). Sad. Finally remembered I could calibrate it. That was a "duh" moment. It worked. Though I had to trust -- my instructions indicated there should be a "T" symbol and press the brake until I got "45" after it. I made whatever number changed when I applied the brake "45" and called it good (took a couple of cycles, as I am not sure how it collects the "45" -- when I exceeded it by much, I started over).
Hope you got something out of my story (sorry it's long). If you have any replacement part numbers (there may be 2 sensors, iirc, one for electric brakes, one for hydraulic; not really sure), etc, please post them.
I talked to Di, the former dealer mentioned in many entries. They disposed of the parts they had a couple of years ago, though she was very nice to talk to, and may have a couple of cobwebs of information to be gleaned.
Enjoy!
Unfortunately, I did not write down the Honeywell part number for the pressure sensor; I remember how readable it was at install, I may have even taken a picture of it, but that is gone. Or at least unfindable. I did find the core product line, MLH. https://sps.honeywell.com/us/en/pro...ensors/industrial-pressure-sensors/mlh-series
Why? Because I found my connector was not only corroded (at the sensor) but a wiper inside the socket (the sensor has 3 conductor pins) had collapsed. It may have been alright, had I tried to 'calibrate' the controller before replacing the connector, so your mileage may vary. I decided to replace the connector, as this is my Wife's horse carriage puller. Remember pictures and paintings of the horses doing the pulling? Not in my house. The horses ride.
Found that the connector used is commonly used by GM and Ford. You can buy the connector and sockets (sockets are not always included with the connector), crimping tool (you can use a plier, but this is one of those things you will likely use again). Or, you can buy a replacement pigtail. Oh. Napa was pricey, but in my hand that day. Other sources are a lot cheaper, even for name brands, but online means waiting. Napa called it a an EC89 pigtail. Or, another model to search for: ACDelco PT2319. There are at least 2 wire size ranges of connectors. As the MaxBrake wire is Cat5 (or similar) they are 22-24ga. So make sure you get the lighter one. I didn't buy the PT2319, so no idea if that is the smaller gauge wire.
Connector line was originally GM>Deloc>Delphi, now Aptiv. https://ecat.aptiv.com/product/12110192
The term "metri-pack 150" will get you what you are looking for. Get the smaller terminals for the lighter gauge.
A few inches from the end of the original cable two wires are soldered together. Keep that in mind and take a picture prior to replacing the connector. I found the wires thin enough to crimp in the provided (red/pink) connectors in the pigtail kit. YMMV. I also used the 3:1 preglued heatshrink (my rare Harborfreight purchase that works). FWIW, 3:1 heat shrink is much easier to use than the old standard 2:1.
I also took the controller apart to inspect (largely to look for any defects: cold solder joints, smell of smoke) the display and the photocell. There is a write up here to replace the photocell with a 100 ohm resister (adjust as required). I didn't, nor did I find a simple way to identify it (to replace it). The display is stupid cheap (to replace). Also found in another thread on this forum. The photocell keeps the display bright enough for the ambient light (brighter lamp for brighter ambient light). I will likely order the display, even though I suspect the photocell is the culprit (or aging of some other part). The display is literally a plug and pray part.
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product/cfah2002atmijt-20x2-character-display-module
For now, I can shine a flashlight into the slot the manual lever slides in (the photocell is located next to the opening). My Wife will not find this acceptable.
Anyhow, after assembly the unit was not working any better (still no automatic brakes). Sad. Finally remembered I could calibrate it. That was a "duh" moment. It worked. Though I had to trust -- my instructions indicated there should be a "T" symbol and press the brake until I got "45" after it. I made whatever number changed when I applied the brake "45" and called it good (took a couple of cycles, as I am not sure how it collects the "45" -- when I exceeded it by much, I started over).
Hope you got something out of my story (sorry it's long). If you have any replacement part numbers (there may be 2 sensors, iirc, one for electric brakes, one for hydraulic; not really sure), etc, please post them.
I talked to Di, the former dealer mentioned in many entries. They disposed of the parts they had a couple of years ago, though she was very nice to talk to, and may have a couple of cobwebs of information to be gleaned.
Enjoy!
