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Maximum recommended fording depth?

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lift pump

Calling All Transmission Guru's. HELP!!!!

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Does DC publish a recommended maximum fording depth? What depth of water have you driven through? Any recommended waterproofing mods?



Land Rover lists 18" as their maximum fording depth, but I driven my Defender 90 through 3'+ with no ill effects on many occasions (see pic).



I'd just like a bit of comfort before I take the plunge!
 
Picture

illflem How were you able to post this size picture? I get stopped every time I try to post over 2 X 2 inch.

Denny
 
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Illflem, you got to do something 'bout your driveway... . :D





(looks like he prefers the "windows down" mode)
 
Boy I don't know about the stuck stuff,BUT,I'd say he has definately taken the phrase "GOIN FISHIN" to a new level that I do not want to try,,Windows are probably opened to allow the truck not to be affected by the side current so he can stay in one area to fish... ... .
 
AHHHH YES.....



Fourwheeling! Now we are on a subject I can REALLY add to. Although I haven't really gotten under this truck and looked for hoses and other openeings, here is what I suggest. Get under the truck and follow up the hoses from the Axles as well as look for vents on the Trans & T- case. Where ever these openings are is the deepest you can fordge water. But, take into consideration that when you are moving the water will be a higher and lower in some areas as the water moves around in and about the chassis. If you know the depth of (or height there of) you know about how deep you can forge water with out the the ability of intake to the houses. Keep in mind that as things are spinning in the drivetrain (axles, trans & T-case) these parts create a vac. in the components and will suck in water through the hoses and other openings.



I've enclosed a link to the "Photo" page of my Blazer site which includes LOTS of wheeling pic's. the funny thing is, I bought this truck (ram) to tow my blazer with! Enjoy!



Corey

Blazer Photo Page!



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(You may have to "right click" & (show picture)



Oh, bye the way, This is my 88 K5 Blazer, 4" lift & 33" Tires. Poor thing, didn't quite make it through the "Puddle". After the truck sat in the "puddle" for about 4 hours, it took 4 days to get the truck back in running condition. As the engine cooled, it sucked water up through the exhaust into the Cylinders, filled the powersteering, Trans, T-case Front & Rear axles. The only fluid in the truck that didn't need to be changed after it was all said and done was the Coolant & Fuel. I had no ideas that the engine was hydrolocked and went through 3 starters before pulling plugs to cycle the engine to pump out the water!
 
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I remember the service manual saying the oil in both differentials should be changed whenever water goes above the axles. Seems like enough of a PITA that I wouldn't want to go that deep.
 
Oh, one last thing...



On my blazer, I'm planning on getting some thin PVC and running a line from the rear axle area all the way to the front in the engine compartment and up to the top of the fire wall. Then running rubber hose from the axles, T-case & Trans to the PVC and using that as a line for the vent and have the opening high up in the engine compartment to prevent water from getting in the lines. Plus, you can also put some type of check vavle to prevent water from coming in if it gets too deep. Something like a Scuba Snorkle with the anti fill vavle thingie!



Corey
 
Illflem

I tried the mud trick once. Its hard to get your truck to float when the front axle has more weight on it than an entire Chevelle.

Cost me 90 bucks. and that was after trying to pull it out with my other truck which weighs less than a Chevelle. Physics... what a Bi@#h

Nice pick . Almost looks like you are moving. :D :)
 
Originally posted by CoreyPerez

... and have the opening high up in the engine compartment to prevent water from getting in the lines. ...



Don't forget the crankcase vent!

Shoot. Why not route all the vents (and air intake and exhaust to the top rear of the cab? Then you should be able to drive in 3-4 feet of water! Oh, right. You'd have to seal up everything electrical. But you have a 12V. You could wire up the fuel shutoff and turn off the key.



Hmmm. That would be a sick thing to do to an old 1st gen. Strip out the electrics except for the battery and starter. Strip the interior and put in some plastic boat seats. Install the snorkel kit. Take the doors off. Get a boat registration for the truck. Then drive the truck up and down the rock-bottomed creek/river nearby. That would give new meaning to the term 'marine diesel'! Who says a boat has to float on the water?



Fest3er
 
Fest3er you joke about this but the guy who held the record for the largest grizzly bear ever shot had his title stripped recently for using a home made rig like that. He was using it to cruise up Alaskan riverbeds while hunting. They said in the process he destroyed salmon hatching areas.
 
Got to bear in mind a hot case (axle, trans, engine, etc. ) cools quickly when surrounded by deep water. If not vented properly, it's going to suck that junk in through an otherwise good seal. They are made for keeping oil in, not water out under a vaccuum situation.



BTW, good picture, man!
 
I took my 97 through a pond that was oh about 3 1/2 feet deep, when the truck had 6000 miles on it. Had to drain the transfer case, both axles, and my dealer replaced 100% of my ignition under warranty. at 80,000 miles my rear axle bearings turned to dust and took out both axle shafts (this was a half ton truck) and that's when i found out my frame was bent..... so after $1500 for the rear axle repair I traded it in on my new truck... this one is getting babied a little more... :cool:
 
I've read that if you actually go deep enough to suck water into the intake of a diesel engine, the result is much more likely (compared to gasser engines) to be a catastrophic engine failure due to the high compression ratios. If someone knows this to be untrue, correct me, I won't flinch.

Part two of the equation: Rebuilt gas engines can be had for 1k to 2k for many brands. Rebuilt diesel, you're probably starting around 4 to 5k.

Each person must make their own decisions about how to use their truck, but it is prudent to remember that you have a lot more $$$ on the line than our gasser friends. For this reason, I'm VERY conservative about what I try to cross.
 
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