mechanical fan clutch

[AH64ID]

You can talk yourself out of it all you want, but the OEM setup is the best at what it does… that has nothing to do with showroom performance.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

but the OEM setup is the best at what it does… that has nothing to do with showroom performance.

My point is im not looking for an OEM solution at this time.

 

[NIsaacs]

Part list being a Hayden 2791 fan clutch ($45) and Motorcraft YA225 fan($100). $150 before shipping from "Rock your Auto" in comparison to buying the $200 adapter from the vid link in OPs post, and a $70 - $120 clutch to reuse the old fan.

I am sure you have done your research on this. I have seen some of your work and you pay attention to detail. However, just so you are 100% clear on your components...

The Haden 2791 appears to fit the '94-'02 Dodge. The 12 valve ('94-'98) used a 180 degree t-stat, the '99-'02 used 190. I tried a Haden/Napa on my '01, twice, it didn't work right. I ended up buying the '91.5-'98 Mopar fan clutch with a 180 t-stat, it works good.

The Haden 2791 is a reverse rotation, your '03 is a standard rotation. I think you will need the adapter in the video?? The Motorcraft YA225 fan appears to be standard rotation. I think you will need a standard rotation fan clutch?

 

[Tuesdak]

My point is im not looking for an OEM solution at this time.

The $500 ruined fan clutch is an expensive education and now you know what went wrong with the repair. This spring thermal (obsolete design) is a step backwards for a truck you have spent a lot of money on to get perfect. The Dodge RAM cooling system with it's EV fan clutch is why a Cummins RAM is in my driveway not a GM Duramax that couldn't even get an EV fan clutch as promised on a 2008.

IMO Replace the broken shroud and drop in a OEM fan clutch like you were doing.

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

I am sure you have done your research on this. I have seen some of your work and you pay attention to detail. However, just so you are 100% clear on your components...

The Haden 2791 appears to fit the '94-'02 Dodge. The 12 valve ('94-'98) used a 180 degree t-stat, the '99-'02 used 190. I tried a Haden/Napa on my '01, twice, it didn't work right. I ended up buying the '91.5-'98 Mopar fan clutch with a 180 t-stat, it works good.

The Haden 2791 is a reverse rotation, your '03 is a standard rotation. I think you will need the adapter in the video?? The Motorcraft YA225 fan appears to be standard rotation. I think you will need a standard rotation fan clutch?

I didn't check the P/N's listed, but the alternate to the swap with stock fan + adapter, is to use the stock Mopar fan clutch for a V-10 engine and the fan for a 6.0L Powerstroke. I remember seeing a thread over on CF that mentioned this alternative, but I ended up getting the adapter, since the Powerstroke fan is smaller.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

The Haden 2791 is a reverse rotation, your '03 is a standard rotation. I think you will need the adapter in the video?? The Motorcraft YA225 fan appears to be standard rotation. I think you will need a standard rotation fan clutch?

From the offerings on RA the rotation is reverse(Counter Clock) for the clutch, The Motorcraft fan is also reverse rotation matching the direction of an OE spec fan. I've seen this parts list used on a later model 04.5+ truck with the less desirable fan shroud design, but not an early 03 04, I doubt there's a difference after the half year changes with the body style update but I'm not 100%.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I didn't check the P/N's listed, but the alternate to the swap with stock fan + adapter, is to use the stock Mopar fan clutch for a V-10 engine and the fan for a 6.0L Powerstroke.

The Hayden 2791 is the V-10 Dodge clutch referenced as well as the Motorcraft YA225 being a Powerstroke fan.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

The $500 ruined fan clutch is an expensive education and now you know what went wrong with the repair. This spring thermal (obsolete design) is a step backwards for a truck you have spent a lot of money on to get perfect. The Dodge RAM cooling system with it's EV fan clutch is why a Cummins RAM is in my driveway not a GM Duramax that couldn't even get an EV fan clutch as promised on a 2008.

IMO Replace the broken shroud and drop in a OEM fan clutch like you were doing.

She's not perfect but nearly 100% on functionality. I just need a temporary solution to be able to make some towing trips. If a used early 03 04 parts truck comes up I'm open to dropping an OE shroud and clutch, but just not an OEM "new" unit at this time. Wound is still fresh for that paper weight.

 

[Tuesdak]

She's not perfect but nearly 100% on functionality. I just need a temporary solution to be able to make some towing trips. If a used early 03 04 parts truck comes up I'm open to dropping an OE shroud and clutch, but just not an OEM "new" unit at this time. Wound is still fresh for that paper weight.

Dealer had a difficult time finding the part number for the shroud on my 2003.
New big part is: 52028912AF
The small bottom part is: 52029081AD

Sawsall to remove the old shroud and the new one was flexible enough to go in without major surgery. I wouldn't bother with a hard and brittle used one.

 

[NIsaacs]

From the offerings on RA the rotation is reverse(Counter Clock) for the clutch, The Motorcraft fan is also reverse rotation matching the direction of an OE spec fan. I've seen this parts list used on a later model 04.5+ truck with the less desirable fan shroud design, but not an early 03 04, I doubt there's a difference after the half year changes with the body style update but I'm not 100%.

View attachment 137232

I think I have figured out my confusion. Some descriptions of the fan clutch says left hand nut and some say right hand. Right hand nut equals reverse rotation to keep the nut tight. Left hand nut is clockwise and again keeps the nut tight. Don't mind me

I did find that Napa lists both for an '03. One is probably a typo and part of why I am confused.

CCW clutch

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM281661?impressionRank=1

CW clutch

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE77600711?impressionRank=3

 

[CharlesinGA]

A smooth fan pulley means it is reverse (to the crank) rotation. My '03 built Jan 6, 2003 uses a reverse rotation fan. Smooth pulley. the threads on the fan hub are standard RH thread. I just reinstalled it today during my radiator replacement. Spin it on, took the 36mm wrench and hit it several times real hard with a dead blow hammer, then for good measure I used a heavy bronze hammer. This makes the fourth time I've had the fan off for various reasons.

Charles

 

[CharlesinGA]

Dealer had a difficult time finding the part number for the shroud on my 2003.
New big part is: 52028912AF
The small bottom part is: 52029081AD

Sawsall to remove the old shroud and the new one was flexible enough to go in without major surgery. I wouldn't bother with a hard and brittle used one.

I'm having a hard time understanding that. Go to Mopar Parts Giant dot com and enter the VIN and its right there. Main shroud is described as "upper" and its $114.67 and available, and the lower section is DISCONTINUED. The two push pins are easily found on auto parts boards. The fan is 52028878AB
FAN Cooling for $112.92. Rock Auto shows the fan clutch as listed in the post above, 52028879AF, discontinued by Mopar.

I'm just very careful about reassembly that everything is in the correct place and that the fan cannot touch the clutch harness.

Charles

 

[CharlesinGA]

Buy a genuine Cummins thermostat. When I flushed the system I stupidly took the original Cummins thermostat and took the innards out of it so water could flow freely and the t-stat housing would still be sealed. When done, I got more stupid and against my better judgment bought a NAPA thermostat. It ran about 200 after that and it never before touched the 200 on the gauge. Then, the thermostat started sticking and the temps rising enough to kick the fan on, then the t-stat would pop open and temps dropped suddenly. This happened on the way into Franklin NC from the north, did it one more time before I got home. (I've never had luck with aftermarket thermostats and temp sending units on other vehicles, so I drove the 50 miles to Cummins South Atlanta and bought a new 190 thermostat and the gauge stays nailed on 190 now.) That was 2020 and I am not touching the t-stat again till I have a problem.

Cummins number is 5292744 and was $52.42 in July of 2020.

Charles

 

[Ozymandias]

Buy a genuine Cummins thermostat. When I flushed the system I stupidly took the original Cummins thermostat and took the innards out of it so water could flow freely and the t-stat housing would still be sealed. When done, I got more stupid and against my better judgment bought a NAPA thermostat. It ran about 200 after that and it never before touched the 200 on the gauge. Then, the thermostat started sticking and the temps rising enough to kick the fan on, then the t-stat would pop open and temps dropped suddenly. This happened on the way into Franklin NC from the north, did it one more time before I got home. (I've never had luck with aftermarket thermostats and temp sending units on other vehicles, so I drove the 50 miles to Cummins South Atlanta and bought a new 190 thermostat and the gauge stays nailed on 190 now.) That was 2020 and I am not touching the t-stat again till I have a problem.

Cummins number is 5292744 and was $52.42 in July of 2020.

Charles

Couple weeks ago I installed a MOTORAD 190° FAIL-SAFE Thermostat and it works like a champ, engine temp is exactly the same as befor.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Came back to this thread looking for part numbers and I can't seem to source the lower portion of the shroud. No superseded P/N, discontinued everywhere I look including Ebay. Saw a few trucks being parted in my area but people are asking crack prices for plastic just as old as the vehicle it came off of.

I was able to find the upper on MPG(Mopar Parts Giant) but the lower is non existent. Anyone have any leads? Else I'll start looking into a Flexalite E-fan unit and return the OE Clutch I just got from RA.

I've got a plastic battery tray leftover from a project that I could cut up and fenagle, but id be in the same circumstance that lead to the first clutch harness being cut.

These trucks are getting old.

 

[AH64ID]

If you do go the electric fan route be advised that it will severely lower your cooling capacity. They don't move nearly as much air as the OEM fan. I recall threads of folks overheating running them many years ago.

 

[Tuesdak]

I measured a fan on Trailblazer SS in place radiator restriction and hood closed and it would pull over 10,000 CFM. Gasoline engine and shallow blade angle. Diesel fans have a larger diameter and more aggressive blade angle. Thus more CFM.

Electric fans are rated free standing without restrictions. Do you see any 12V “Light Duty” cooling fans rated over 5,000 CFM? Two at 5000 CFM is light duty gasoline engine cooling. Great for 1/4 mile at the track.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

If you do go the electric fan route be advised that it will severely lower your cooling capacity. They don't move nearly as much air as the OEM fan. I recall threads of folks overheating running them many years ago.

The alternative options are either a mechanical fan clutch or electric retro fit, The plastics aren't being made any more and they're the securement method preventing the harness from contacting the blades.

My cooling capacity isn't factory. A larger radiator and coolant bypass have been managing my temperatures really well even before I did a mechanical fan clutch conversion while the OE fan was dead in the water.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I measured a fan on Trailblazer SS in place radiator restriction and hood closed and it would pull over 10,000 CFM. Gasoline engine and shallow blade angle. Diesel fans have a larger diameter and more aggressive blade angle. Thus more CFM.

Electric fans are rated free standing without restrictions. Do you see any 12V “Light Duty” cooling fans rated over 5,000 CFM? Two at 5000 CFM is light duty gasoline engine cooling. Great for 1/4 mile at the track.

If you've got other options to share feel free. I doubt China is going to pick up a near obsolete part for a specific year range of a specific model of truck in the US to mfg. I was quoted $250 for a used shroud just as old as mine from a parts truck. I only need the lower piece.

 

[AH64ID]

The alternative options are either a mechanical fan clutch or electric retro fit, The plastics aren't being made any more and they're the securement method preventing the harness from contacting the blades.

What about making one out of sheet metal?

My cooling capacity isn't factory. A larger radiator and coolant bypass have been managing my temperatures really well even before I did a mechanical fan clutch conversion while the OE fan was dead in the water.

It’s not the cooling capacity, it’s the airflow. The OEM radiator has plenty of capacity, just lacks airflow when the fan is failed or undersized.

Out of curiosity, what’s the volume of your cooling system with your radiator? It’s a Mishimoto, right?