Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Mechanical Fuel Pressure Guage in Cab???

[rbagley]

Mechanical Fuel Pressure Guage in the Cab???



Simple question. Is it OK to do this. Give me some plus/minus's.



Thanks.

 

[Rob Thomas]

I have two in mine, SS line and permatex #2 sealant with no problems. I also have a needle valve on each, which eliminates the pulses in the gauge, and if needed, shuts the fuel off to the cab in case of a leak.



Downside, there is a chance to get fuel in the cab if you have a leak. Take your time, make good connections, and you should be alright. You can also use an isolator, this acts as a snubber, and a saftey, since the tube from the isolator to the gauge is filled with glycol, not fuel, however, there have been to many problems with the isolators for my liking.



Upside, mechanical gauges are the most responsive, and accurate types of gagues available, no senders, or elecrtronics to fail.





Rob

 

[swampinboy]

Not recommended to have fuel in the cab for leak reasons, however, from what I understand there is not a real good alternative. The isolators and electric gauges have there own problems. I am planning on using mech in the cab, down under dash. I am going to install a needle valve under the hood and use high quality line. This is a topic discussed often here. If done right either should work fine, but have heard to many problems with isolators and vibration and inaccurate readings. To be honest, I would rather have a fuel leak in cab where I would know immediatly ( and shut off thru needle valve ) than one under the hood that I may not catch until the next stop. Just remember it is easier to do it right the first time than to explain to everyone why you didn't. seeya and I am sure you will hear other opinions.

I see Mr. Thomas just beat me to it. Oo.

 

[Shovelhead]

No problems with mine going on 3 years.

Not a drip since the original install.

Mounted mine on top of the dash.



Ed

 

[CFAR]

2 years no runs, drips or errors.



A mechanical gauge should have a snubber. (needle valve)

A mechanical Autometer Ultralight will cost about $35. I originally bought a kit with isolator, ($120) isolator never installed. I read about failures and didn't want to feed the vp44 glycol mixed with diesel.

I ran braided stainless, but you could use the plastic tubing and fuel line hose over that. You will smell diesel if you have a leak.



LOL

 

[moremph]

where would you get aneedle valeve what would this be original used for. What about the stainles steel braided hose. Thanks Travis

 

[RCone]

Everything that Rob Thomas said. The key is a SS braided line and a good gauge. I bought my 30psi Isspro Marine Gauge from Rod at Wildcatdiesel.com. I figured that if it was good enough for marine use should work well in cab with a measly 15-16psi. I do have a needle valve on mine also right where I connected it to the tapped banjo off of the bottom of the fuel filter. Diesel in cab not good, messy, but not that flammable. With isolator antifreeze in cab not good either. Take your pick. HTH.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Originally posted by moremph

where would you get aneedle valeve what would this be original used for. What about the stainles steel braided hose. Thanks Travis

www.grainger.com has the needle valve 1/8" NPT male one end, and 1/8"NPT female on the other, about $4.



www.summitracing.com and the like have the SS hose in various lenghts, with the fittings already on, or you can buy bulk hose and make your own with Aeroquip fittings.





Rob