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Metal Fuel fiter cap w/port for sender.

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Are the metal billet fuel filter caps (Geno's sells them) as good as they look? Do they basically seal and work as well as the plastic OEM units? Is the torque the same when re-installing them?



They look great and the port for a pressure sending unit is a nice touch and makes getting a gauge that much easier for folks. Just curious.
 
Assuming it is made by the same guy I got mine from a year or so (it looks like it is)... the quality is 1000% better than OEM plastic crap. Fit and finish are as close to prefect as you can get. That thing must weigh about 2 pounds. Very nice quality...
 
Not shure about which product you mean??? Are you referring to the PrimeLoc fuel filter relocator kit??? It so, I think they are one of the best investments you can make. They replace the stock canaster type fuel filter and let you use a more convienent spin-on filter. Plus the fact that it now right there in front of you, so the job is 5 minutes instead of 2-hours.

I changed over to this setup right away when I bought my truck, it's fast and very easy to change filters now. The design is also easy to install, plus it makes you smile the hole time knowing you will never have to be reaching in thru all the mess trying to get to the fuel filter again.

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I'm refering to the OEM filter cannister lid replacement for 2000 and up trucks. From what I understand... the primeloc is not for the 24V trucks. I do think the primeloc is a great product for the 12V trucks however! :)
 
If it makes any difference, I don't think the filter attatches to the lid like the stocker does. Still it shouldn't be a problem pulling it out of the housing.
 
No... you are right the filter does not attach to the cap, but it doesn't take much effort at all to remove the filter.



Here is a picture of mine... without the sender port



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Are there any problems with mounting the sending unit right atop the filter cap? Seems like some suggest having a rubber hose length or needle valve to reduce pulsations of the gauge.



I'll also assume that mounting the sending unit on the hex takes pressure right from the center of the filter... which would be filtered fuel.
 
A TDR member makes those,Lonnie in Redlands Ca. I have installed quite a few with and without the Gauge. Very high quality fit and finish. It is the best way to add a pressure gauge on the 3rd gen's.



Bob
 
Does anyone see a problem with using one of the tapped banjo bolts and mounting the fuel pressure isolator directly to it where the line enters the CP3 pump. The isolator would be at a slight angle but there is plenty of clearance, I do wonder about the vibration issues, I wonder if the needle would bounce due to the vibrations the isolator gets from the engine.
 
GWoody said:
Does anyone see a problem with using one of the tapped banjo bolts and mounting the fuel pressure isolator directly to it where the line enters the CP3 pump. The isolator would be at a slight angle but there is plenty of clearance, I do wonder about the vibration issues, I wonder if the needle would bounce due to the vibrations the isolator gets from the engine.





I've got the Jacobs vacuum pump in the way of that location so i just replaced the banjo in the bottom of the filter housing with the sender. Works perfectly.



-Richard
 
GWoody said:
Does anyone see a problem with using one of the tapped banjo bolts and mounting the fuel pressure isolator directly to it where the line enters the CP3 pump. The isolator would be at a slight angle but there is plenty of clearance, I do wonder about the vibration issues, I wonder if the needle would bounce due to the vibrations the isolator gets from the engine.
I did exactly that and have my isolator mounted on the engine. The vibration does not affect the needle however it seems to be shaking my isolator apart so I plan to move it to the firewall.



-Scott
 
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