2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Might have found a 24 valve...

[Niro]

guys I need some help, Ive was part of this forum about a year ago and recently joined back. Im in NJ and have been on the market for a cummins 94-02 for almost 3 years... <--(yes thats right) I never found one in a decent price range for me (mostly in the tens of thousands)



However recently I think I found a nice truck but wanted to ask what to look out for



the truck is a 98 24 Valve Reg Cab 197K miles

4X4, Manual trans, SLT Laramie Edition

Has 4. 10 gears, anti-spin differential, aftermarket wheels (which I dont prefer) and bedliner

It shows a dana 60 front, and dana 80 hybrid for the rear. .





The exterior looks in pretty nice condition for a salt state, there isnt any rust on the bottoms of the doors or the rockers ( In NJ I generally see this)

The passenger side door has covered holes from a door mounted mirror prior

I dont care about the body damage since my father owns an autobody.



The interior needs a few things (headliner and the driver door needs a handle)



The engine looks decent, but it looks like the intake horn (is that the right name?) is burned or stained etc...



I have enclosed some pics



by the way, I think I could pick this up for about $6500-$7000 in cash



any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Cummins724]

Not bad, but you better check to see if it has a 53 casted in the side of the engine block before purchasing. A $7000 price tag could go to a $20k price tag real quick.

 

[RPMDodge]

How does it drive, any vibration? Is the steering good? Does it go all over the place How does the engine sound? Take the hose off the turbo and look inside see if you can move the shaft. If you can, it will need a turbo soon... . Does it have a low pressure warning light or guage? The fuel injection system is not cheap in these trucks. Pull some codes... turn the key on and off, not starting it, three times to get some codes..... Its a good looking truck and a good price. Good Luck. Rick M

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Look at that air horn!! I'm guessing that the grid heaters stuck on for some reason and that caused all the discoloration on the air horn starting from the head. The turbo's pretty discolored as well. You might want to get a compression check and check that the electrical system is all working properly and there wasn't a harness meltdown.

 

[Boondocker]

Looks like the grid heater was always on, probably until it burned out. That's something you'll need to fix (what caused the problem) and replace the grid heater and air horn, especially for northeastern winters.

The front end looks a little higher than stock, like a leveling kit. Check for spacers above the springs. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it doesn't improve front-end wear or alignment.

Is it a 5-speed? You might want to make sure the 4-wheel drive works. If the crank case vent bottle is in the original location, I'll bet the radiator needs a good cleaning. Otherwise, it looks pretty good from here

 

[Niro]

thank you guys I appreciate the help



I have not had a chance to test drive it since its an hour away. . however

since Ive been out of the loop so long, and I like to speculate, was the 53 block from a certain factory? I do know for a fact this truck was built in mexico,

'

check the picture below



thank you guys for the suggestions, is there a list I can find the codes at, so this way I can bring a sheet with me when I see the truck and see what exactly they are?



Is the heatergrid an expensive part?

The air horn I would be looking to replace with a performance one anyway, so its not a huge deal. .



Do I have to worry with the coolant system like on a few other vehicles I had with high mileage about getting air in the system/overheating etc? Or is it as simple as flushing it out and replacing etc?



thank you guys so much I really appreciate everything

 

[16919]

The 53 blocks are prone to cracking not sure where they were made. Check for the codes... heres a website with an entire list to print off http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/99-01trk.shtml

 

[DCreed]

front fender paint isnt original drvr side also will need a radiator soon its corroded. check lift pump for sure also codes if time and cash permit take to a good dodge savy shop and have it looked at also take oil samples look for velcro or pump wire taps indicators of previous bombs front brakes on 4x4s are also not cheap(the hubs sieze onto spindles) . all i got off top o my head

 

[Joe Mc]

Can't pull codes on the 99 and under with the 3 Xs key deal - doesn't work. Borrow an OBDII from someone and take with you. Since it had towing mirrors and a stick I'd be wondering if the clutch is original and what it was replaced with if not, is it a 5 spd or 6 (not sure if 6 spd avail in 98) search for the 5th gear nut problem. Yeah the paint doesn't appear to match, it's got some kind of leveling thing in the front going on, some holes in the doors and a good sized "boink" in the tail of the bed - but that seems to be a good price if it doesn't have the dreaded 53 block. Check on the block for a "53" casting just under the VP above the oil pan and sometimes on the other side too around the bottom of the oil filter between it and the pan. You may be lucky and have the Mex block - better steel compounds used I beleive?

Good Luck - hey where's it at in Jersey? I'm just the other side of the Delaware from Burlington, NJ - I could go over it w/you - I have an OBDII reader . . . PM me or send an email if interested.