Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Mild BOMB Suggestions?

[GGibson]

I have a Stock '96, Auto, 3. 54, Auto, Cal EGR, 100,000 mi and pull a 9000# trailer with no problems so far. In low rolling hills I sometimes have to shift out of O. Drive and would like a little more power without getting carried away with extra gages etc. if possible. Yes, I know this is a slippery slope to start on. I plan on adding an exhaust brake and upgrade the transmission, probably with ATS. I see that Donnelly recommends in latest TDR p. 15 that a torque plate, maybe injectors and a bigger turbine housing will get me in the 275-300 HP range. Maybe this is more power than I need? When I'm crusing at about 1750 rpm/ 65 mph I get tired of shifting out of OD so much.

Do you guys think a 3KGSK and mild TST plate is enough?

I see that TST doesn't recommend plates for CAL EGR's. Any way around that and keep the EGR in tact if inspections become necessary in CAL?



If TST plate isn't enough is the next step injectors or Turbine housing? Since I haven't drive any of the above setups I'm not sure how far I have to go to get what I want.

Suggestions?????

Hopefully I won't have to add gages with this mild BOMBing???

 

[Dkevdog]

I'm not going to be the only one to chime in on this, but GET THE GAUGES!!!!!!!Oo. It should be your first BOMB if not along with others. Beyond that, you are heading in the right direction. I have a "mildly" bombed 96', that used to be EGR , someone stole it... ..... no wait- "That is the way I bought this truck Officer" . Seriously though, A plate and larger turbine housing alone will get you a snappier truck with more power, and then you can play with the timing and... ..... Well you know what will happen. You will still probably have to pull it our of OD on grades pulling a 9000#er- get an EGT guage in there and you'll soon see.



Kev

 

[illflem]

Get at least a EGT gauge, if cost is the problem Stewart-Warner has these for under $60. Then slide your stock plate forward and turn the afc starwheel towards the engine. If that isn't enough go for a plate and larger turbo housing.

 

[Missouri Mule]

GGibson,

I'm not a bomber but guages boost/egt they will let you know what your engine is doing and what other upgrades you will need. But plate should do.



TST offers a 285/605 plate. With this plate there is no real need to do other mods to exhaust or turbo. I believe the 180 pump valves will handle the extra fuel. You mite need injectors but not sure I think oem injectors should be able to handle the extra fuel.

But I would get adjustalbe wastegate elbow so you can increase max boost. 30 psi is safe the factory setting is 20 psi.



Some info on upgrading cal egr valve engines (found while searching).

Member wanted to know how to replace intake manifiold.





JSmith



Registered: Aug 2001

Location: Central Valley

Posts: 155



Go to Cummins West dealer and get the 49 state intake. No blocking plate needed for the intake. Check the fitting on the back of the afc for soot fouling. you will have to remove the fitting.

This intake is not restricted like the CA version. It will cost about $70. 00. Do not worry about the soot in the head/intake manifold,this new intake will do the job,trust-me.



05-12-2002 09:52 AM





Benc

Registered: May 2001

Location: Elma, WA, USA

Posts: 8

update

I just got off the phone with my cummins northwest dealer. He cannot sell me the 49 state intake because of my engine number. He did give me the name of a shop in my area that does work with these engines, called The Power Shop. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this shop?



thanks for your input

Ben



05-14-2002 01:11 AM



Joseph Donnelly



Registered: Oct 1999

Location: Henderson, NV

Posts: 1427

It is illegal ($10,000 fine) for a shop to remove your emissions equipment. You have two choices: buy a federal intake and install it yourself, or buy an egr intake that has been milled out so it doesn't restrict the flow. You can either hook up the egr or not. The new 49 state intake is cheaper, the other way is potentially legal.





05-14-2002 03:54 AM



John L



Registered: May 2001

Location: S. F Bay Area, Ca

Posts: 26

Hey Ben-

I ordered a non-ca intake and told them it was for my 95 dodge (advice from other members). The part number for the intake is 3931516 and cost around 60 bucks.

Hopefully this helps! Also my EGT dropped about 250 degs cruising on the freeway unloaded!!





Hopes this helps.



You can use search mode (EGR* Valve -12 valve forum- 3 or more months ago) ot find more info about the egr and manifold.

 

[SlyBones]

I too vote for gauges first.



A 230/605 plate is OK place to start. OK with EGT's except maybe under full load, long grade etc. going bigger than 230/605 will get EGT concerns and require those gauges. 275-300 HP with little/no airflow improvements and no gauges is a problem waiting to happen, IMO of course. After the plate the GSK is the best $$ you can spend.



This should be a nice improvement for towing. When I was at this level, it towed my 26' TT with gear and all ( 15K GCVW ) great. Since then its been purely the bug.



Also consider that if you go anything much beyond the 230 plate and the GSK you will need a transmission. My stock transmission lasted 2 weeks. From there work on air flow improvements to reduce EGT's.



The short version is,



Fuel, Air Flow, transmission, Fuel, Air Flow, Tires, Fuel, Air Flow, Fuel, Fuel, Tires, Fuel, Air Flow

 

[SlyBones]

OK thinking about it, that was the longer version. This is the short route to distruction.



604-888-4159 and as for a stupid pump, injectors, cam, ported head, exhaust, air intake system, turbo and gauges.

 

[Reddog1]

GGibson



I too am a newbe at this BOMBing stuff. Knowing the EGT is probably the most important info on your Ram. After installing my Pyro, I had to change my driving habits, especially with a load. This was with no mods.



I have modified my stock plate, and its position, with positive results . With this simple change, you must know what the EGTs are. I also changed the AFC spring; you must know what the EGTs are.



Your post suggests you have 100000 miles on your transmission. If so, you probably will be scattering transmission parts with after market mods. The exception would be the 3K GOV kit . This will help your transmission, not destroy it. I installed it in my 96, and I was impressed.



I installed a #10 plate yesterday, still dialing it in. The 370 injectors are on the bench, waiting their turn.



I would suggest you call Piers, you would not be disappointed in the information you will receive.



How far are you from Sacramento?





Wayne

 

[GGibson]

Thanks to you all

Thanks to you all for the good info. It has been a real help. Reply to Reddog1. . I'm about 5 hours south of Sacramento. One question still nags me. .

If I do a mild BOMB, say about 40-50 HP, am I kidding myself or will this be enough to keep me from dropping out of ODrive on some the the low rolling hills, the ones that you hit at about 65mph/1750 rpm and then you have to shift out of ODrive just before you get to the top as the rpm slowly creeps down

 

[Cummnzpowr]

REDDOG!

Hey Wayne:

Looks like i gave you the bombing bug after we slid your stock plate huh? so you like the 3000k gov springs? I might suggest you get rid of that #10 plate you just bought and swap for a #5 or #6... because your automatic transmission pump will run better with one... i shoulda held onto my #5 ... . anyway, take care, see you maybe in Tulare huh?

 

[SlyBones]

GGibson

Stock your engine was rated at 180/420 at the flywheel. Probably only 130-140 at the tires, with the auto transmission. Stepping up to a #8 plate should give you the 230/605 RWHP. My personal experience was that this towed a 15K GCVW load nicely.



Even then, you still may want to consider locking out the OD on the long grades. High boost, low RPM's, big load, etc is not a great combination for the stock transmission. - Keeping the RPM's up will help the transmission live longer and help keep the EGT's lower. The difference will be instead of running with your foot to the floor barely holding 60, you will be at less than 1/2 throttle holding 60-65 with ease and have room to spare.



http://www.piersdiesel.com/CamPlate.htm



Again I always vote for gauges first. At the 230/605 level you should safe for 90% of the time. While my stock transmission only lasted 2 weeks, many get by for a long time at this level. There are also things that can be done to the stock auto to increase line pressure. This will help in that department as well. Do a search or call DTT ( or vendor of your choice ) and see how.



If you need to be budget minded, nuke the cat, get a inexpensive 3" walker muffler, and a K&N for the air box. This would help the air flow department. Less that $150 total.



My $0. 02

 

[Snow man]

GGibson,towing in oD at 1750 under heavy load in OD is not conductive to long trans life,. If you go with the TST plate I can almost guarantee you you will slip the stock trans easily on OD before it needs to kick down,especially if you drive granny style,and ease into it its even worse for it,pull it into 3rd,wind it out (3K GSK) or go a little faster/get a smaller tire,since you are right on the edge of lugging it pulling a hill.