Here I am

Mild BOMB'ing project...

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getting ready to but new truck

Interior Trim Question

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I believe the day after Christmas, I'm going to have the 12CM housing installed, replace the squashed tailpipe, put in a K&N, put in PW injectors, and move the timing advanced a little bit. Also probably going to go totally straight pipe, but just the 3 inch exhaust. If that's too loud, there's a dynomax muffler for about 95 bucks that looks good. Getting new tires that day, too, I think. Oh, yeah, replacing the carrier bearing too.



Does anyone have a pyro that's post (window pillar) mounted? I'm looking at a little pyro and noticed some time back that Geno's or <i>somebody</i> has a pillar mount for the small guages. Boost and temp would be good. transmission temp too.



If you have a 1st gen transmission temp gauge, where did you put the sender, and where did you mount the gauge?
 
Hey PW!



Yes, Genos does sell a pillar mount for our trucks. I've seen the 2 gauge pillar mount but don't know if a 3 gauge mount is available. I'm a 2 holed "Bull Frog" looking dash mounted 5 spd. guy myself!:D



If you find yourself in need of a muffler after the straight pipe experiment ... check out the 3" inlet/outlet Walker P/N 21468.



Just more places to spend money...



KEENO:D
 
there is a pillar pod i have it on my truck look's good but i find that it takes away fome viewing room when driving. other than that it's a nice piece ... . ps they only come in 2 pod...
 
I started out with the Autometer 2 gauge pillar pod but decided to bag it for the reason Cummins Kid mentioned. I am mounting them on the steering column. So far the tach and Boost are in - the pyro is next. It can be done without blocking any factory instrumentation except the trip meter - 2 inch gauges of course. I will post a pic as soon as I am able.



BTW, how do you successfully attach pictures to a post? I tried it once but did something wrong.



Ken
 
shouldnt be too loud w/o a muff. first gens are quiet. my 89 with 4 in straight was real mellow. or am i already deaf because of the 4 in straight on my 24v. :D
 
Mark, was it the carrier bearing that was causing all of the strange noises? I just installed a 21467 (kind of unsure of the #). It is a 3 1/2" in and out muffler. 30" long vs 21" of the 21468. I really like the sound. (Thanks to Joe Donnelly) ;)
 
Haven't had a chance to change the carrier bearing... and the PW Injectors are on hold, since Wentland Diesel sold them all and they are BACKORDER!!! At least, then they come in, they'll have 6 sets on hand...



The local muffler shop will be building everything past the intermediate pipe, and they told me it would be $75 with no muffler. I was wondering, for those of you who've tried it, what's the best angle / position for the tailpipe outlet to get the noise away from the cab? I noticed that on my 440, straight away from the car didn't work well, and I got a deep bass throb that rattled the whole car at some speeds.



I'm thinking that slighly downward, somewhat back, and sticking out 2-3 inches (more?) would deflect noise away...



BTW, the LS clutches chatter terrible, get worse every day. I'll have the grease changed in the differential and anti-chatter additived added as well when I do the injectors and pipe.



If that doesn't cure it... gads... it better!
 
Mark;

Put the pipe in the original position with a free-flow muffler (to avoid the rasp/homeboy sound)... Cummins w/o mufflers. . ha ha.

If it's possible. . do a 3. 5" system... do it now or later... the choice is yours.

Check with Ted Jannetty on the 1st Gen injectors from HIS source for the MOST power/streetable ones.

"pw's" may not be the choice of the application.

Drain the fluid (not grease) from your differential and fill with the proper lube/additive.

On the gages and their mounts... from my 1st Gen to my 2nd Gen... I am a believer in the dash mount pod for less reflection and more visibility.

Do what you must.

All the best to you and your new truck.
 
Originally posted by F Simkowski

Mark;

Put the pipe in the original position with a free-flow muffler (to avoid the rasp/homeboy sound)... Cummins w/o mufflers. . ha ha.

If it's possible. . do a 3. 5" system... do it now or later... the choice is yours.

Check with Ted Jannetty on the 1st Gen injectors from HIS source for the MOST power/streetable ones.

"pw's" may not be the choice of the application.

Drain the fluid (not grease) from your differential and fill with the proper lube/additive.

On the gages and their mounts... from my 1st Gen to my 2nd Gen... I am a believer in the dash mount pod for less reflection and more visibility.

Do what you must.

All the best to you and your new truck.



Hi Frank...



I've heard another truck with a 3" straight pipe, and it didn't seem to be all that loud - it had a 12CM housing, too - well, I think it was straight-piped... I don't have the money to buy a full exhaust system, it's just not possible. A 3. 5 would be nice, but I'm not going to run all that much HP... Probably not exceed 220 HP.



As far as the PW injectors... They don't smoke - since they have either the same or more holes (don't recall right now) than the originals, and no smoke is very important to me. With a little more boost than it has now, and a little timing tweak, it should run pretty good.



Found the former employer has an Autometer Pillar mount in stock, for 2 gauges... It'll be boost and transmission temp for me. Since I'm not going serious on the fuel, no pyro. At least not for now. Again, budget is limited :(



I have a gallon of GL-5 to put in the differential, plus the Chysler anti-chatter additive. If it doesn't work, then it's rebuild time, I guess.
 
Originally posted by Deezul 1

My friend took out PW injectors and replaced them with Lucas I believe and there was a big power difference.



And how much does it smoke? Currently, my truck makes no visible smoke at any speed or throttle position. I pretty much want to keep it that way. It may mean I have to tweak the aneroid (diaphragm) to get less fuel when I don't have boost, to prevent smoking. I'll tolerate a mild haze coming out when I'm working it real hard, but that's about it.
 
I have to chuckle when I read all the different opinions about where to place the gauges. Not slamming anyone, just that everyone will have a favorite place. I had the 3 hole "frog eye's" on the dash but the roads around here are pretty crappy and with the rough riding truck, there was a stretch of freeway where I had to put my hand on the gauge pod to keep it from jumping off the dash. I was worried about the gauges being damaged so I got the 2 hole pillar mount and moved them. (Sold the dash pod). That took care of the vibration problem. They are a little harder to read IMHO, but they don't vibrate.
 
injectors/dashpod

Mark, I got my "PW" injectors from Tim Scheid at City Diesel. The were about $350... I'm using a banks three guage dash mounted pod to pyro, boost and tach. HTH, Alan
 
Somebody has some used power wagon injectors in the Engine and Trans stuff classifieds (TDR) with only 5k on them. $250 shipped. Price may even be negotiable, who knows... .
 
Mark:

You and I are on the same page regarding the smoke. I've been setting up my (previous) 1st and 2nd Gen for optimal power, streetability, low end grunt, top end breathing and minimal smoke or haze to accomplish all of this (whew).

Proper timing and the appropriate pump adjustments for fuel delivery amount and rate, along with an intelligent injector choice will accomplish the all the above.

You and I both are aware of the "wonderfulness" of excessive smoke, carboning, fuel wash, etc. It's just good again to actually read about the concerns you've expressed.

I understand where you are coming from regarding the exhaust pipe issue.

Good hunting in your search.

Frank
 
smoke?????

What is the big deal about if it smokes or not? i allways thought the mor power the more smoke I can get mine to smoke {low boost} where I cant see lights behind me, AND I LIKE IT, HEHEHEHEHEHEHE. bUT REALLY WHATS IS THE BIG DEAL. ****** Justin. :eek:
 
Power wagon---- When you said adjust aneroid (diaphragm) to control smoke are you talking about starwheel adj. Also is 650-700 rpm ok for idle speed when it calls for 800 rpm's. I need to slow it down because of creep with lower stall tc.
 
The "aneroid" is the cummins term for the entire boost compensation / smoke prevention device.



It has 3 adjustments - stop screw, star wheel, and plunger position. Adjusting the 'aneroid' means any/all of them.



And to be honest, no, I wasn't talking about the diaphragm OR the star wheel, I was talking about the stop screw, which sets the travel limit upwards ( it adjusts the minimum amount of fuel under no-boost conditions).



The diaphragm is turned to choose a different "slope" to the boost/fuel curve. The star wheel is adjusted to change spring tension which will determine when (how much pressure) plunger (diaphragm) movement begins, and the set screw is the "stop" for setting the minimum fuel. Unless your pump is very badly set from the factory, none of them should need much of any tweaking. Turning up the fuel screw raises all of them somewhat, and changing injectors moves the true fuel delivery upwards again. If I turn the fuel screw and change injectors, and find that harsh jabs on the throttle generate smoke, I merely need to back off the screw on top until it stops. Boost will then still bring the fuel back up appropriately, with only a little bit of extra "lag".



If that won't do it, the pump comes off, goes onto the test stand at the pump shop, and gets it all set near the specs again, but this time incorporating the lower no-air setting and making sure small amounts of boost increase the fuel (star wheel adjustment). And then, you have to make sure that full boost gets full fuel - that you have enough change for the amount of plunger movement (diaphragm position). Change either the star wheel or diaphragm position, and you ahve to start all over on the test stand to get it right - each changes all the other adjustments a bit.
 
Hey Power Wagon!



Good luck on the work on the new truck next week. I am getting ready to put my 92 up on stands sometime in the next couple of weeks for a lot of work.



I will be pulling the transmission to fix a leak. While it is out I am going to remove the engine oil pan to repair a bent area and weld in bungs for an oil temperature gauge and a return line for the bypass filter I will be installing. While I am at it, I will install new rod and main bearings. A new rear seal also.



I have a new set of PW injectors and a 16cm housing sitting on the shelf that also get installed. I got all my bends this week for the 4" exhaust I am going to fabricate. This will have a #17225 Dynomax muffler and a polished stainless steel 5" tip.



The timing cover is coming off for a look at the dowel pin and installation of a new front seal.



Then all the front suspension bushings get replaced with urethane. While I'm at it a new set of springs now waiting in the garage will go in. I am also installing a oil cooler and filter on the power steering system.



Then to the rear to update the brakes to the 3" setup. I have a lead on a limited slip unit that will be installed if the deal goes thru. A receiver hitch gets installed also.



As you can see I have a lot planned. I finally have all the parts on hand and the time to get it done. In addition to the above there are some other smaller items to get done, like new door hinge pins, new door weatherstripping, etc. .



As I said, good luck on your work next week! I'm not going to be in any big hurry to get mine done. I will just have to drive my Ford van for a while.



Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!





:) :) :)
 
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