Miserable oil change!

[Wardog]

When changing a diesel oil filter, do you hand tighten it as in a gasser, or torque it snug?

 

[JLovas]

Hey, thanks for all the replys... Looks like warm/hot oil change is the favoriate. That's the way I've usually done it too. Its about a 6 mile drive to my farm shop, so by the time I get there the oil is warm but not too hot to be uncomfortable to change (because I usually end up getting at least a quart on the floor and another on my clothes!)



Wardog... I've always just hand tightned all my oil filters (most of my changes involve pickups, farm trucks, and tractors). Just make sure your hands are dry and that you can get a good grip on the filter and get her as tight as you can with your hands and call her good.

 

[Dean Upson]

The only problem with "hand tight" is that it can vary greatly between individuals. I used to work with a guy we called the human pipe wrench. He would have put the Cummins Gorilla to shame.



Dean

 

[DPKetchum]

Interesting about the tightness of NEW oil filters. Its not just Cummins or a certain year model. The 4 years I was at a D. C. dealer this was COMMON on ALL models but seemed more so on trucks gas or diesel. Had lots of folks come by and complain about this and some techs also. Our lube tech NEVER had a problem breaking one loose and he said about ALL of them gorilla tight:{

 

[Mathew Clausen]

Drain oil as hot as possible always for any engine. Otherwise you leave a cold pile of settled out sludge in the bottom of the pan. You want all of the contaminants suspended in the oil then drain fast.



Tightening: Most any filter for diesel engines (and any other larger machinery) has a tighten spec by amount of turn written on the filter - 3/4 turn past first seal contact is very common. I mark the bottom or side of the filter at 1/4 turn marks with a felt pen to keep track of rotation. Some filters already have the marks to help you out. Sometimes I can make it by hand, other times need a wrench. Then there is not guessing - same amount of gasket compression every time.



Mathew

 

[Detroitiron]

I change it hot because that's what the shop manual says is the correct way, and the logic behind that method has been discussed previously in this thread. Also, if I do anything to or around the engine, and DON'T scorch my fingers, well, I'm just not doing it right. Or so I'm told.

 

[CROW]

I change oil hot and use a strap wrench to break the filter loose and then use the plastic wrench that fits on the flutes at the bottom of the filter to take it off the rest of the way. I managed to break one of the plastic wrenches on a filter I had "properly" installed on the truck. I guess I am totally paranoid about getting foil from an oil container in the filter, so I but two gallons and four quarts. The quart containers are easier to handle while filling the filter and you do not have to worry about getting foil in the filter from a quart container.

 

[Wiredawg]

Removing Foil

Crow:



I always open the gallon containers and use a shrp knife to cut the foil off in one peice. Never any worries about foil.



I also have a funnel that has a metal screen in it in the event I dropped any foil in the container.



We each have our ways to protect our expensive "toys. "



Wiredawg

 

[WMcGuire]

my 2 cents, I worked many years maintaining heavy construction equipment, the rule was "HOT", main reason is not neccessarily beacuse of heavy particles, if they circulate they will eventually be filtered out, but because of water (condensation), it will separate when out when cold and being heavier than oil will remain in that last quart of oil that don't drain, water is probably more danger to your engine than soft particulates as thats where the acids concentrate.

As for precharging the filter from a quart oil container, never do it from a new one, I've seen more than one with plastic pieces and even coils from the mfg process, the spouts on the containers are machine trimmed and sometimes the trimmings don't get cleaned out.

 

[jersey diesel]

I wouldlove to change my own oil, but don't know where to to get a drain pan big enough to hold all of the the oil also why does Dodge say not to use synthetic oils. Is Amsoil all it says it is ? Tks 04. 53500 6speed. my first dodge deisel

 

[Dean Upson]

You should be able to find a drain pan big enough at NAPA or just use a cut down 5 gal pail. There have been chapters written on this forum about which oil to use, I use Rotella dino, many use other brands or synthetics. Amsoil seems to be the popular one of the synthetics.



Dean

 

[Diesel Nut]

I use amsoil and i use the K+N oil filter from Kragens. This filter has a 1 inch nut welded on the bottom of it. Makes removal really easy. Socket, couple of extentions, and no fighting with all the stuff to get in your way. And, they are pretty easy to get ahold of. Oh, and love my amsoil.

 

[klenger]

I am unaware of any restriction from Dodge on the use of synthetic oils changed on the published service interval.

 

[Dean Upson]

Originally posted by klenger

I am unaware of any restriction from Dodge on the use of synthetic oils changed on the published service interval.

I've never seen anything either, Ken. The change interval remains the same and that is pretty pricey if you use synthetic. Personally, the only reason that I would ever use synthetic would be if I lived in the far north, so unless I move to Alaska I'll stick with ole' stinky Rosemella .



Dean

 

[klenger]

With the 15,000 mile oil change interval on the 04. 5 600's, using Amsoil becomes attractive. Change the filter at 6 months or 7500 miles, and change the oil and fileter at 1 year or 15,000 miles, and you are still compliant with the factory service requirements.

 

[DPKetchum]

RIGHT!