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Missing Oil Plug Washer

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I pulled a good one today when I was changing my oil. Seems the washer on my oil plug fell off and I put it back on with out it. Didn't notice it until I was cleaning up and I found it in my drain pan. Then I checked for leaks around the the plug, and guess what, it was leaking a drop or two every minute. I had to drive to the store to get more oil, because I figured I would never be able to take the plug out, get the washer on it again without losing alot of oil. So I just had a $15 flush or oil. Moral of the story, Pay attention to what your doing!! Even the simplest of jobs can cost you money when you goof up.

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1999 FLAME RED 2500 SLT, QC, 4X4 AT, 3. 54 AGATE LEATHER
 
Well, ahem, I did that just last fall. Got in a hurry, and you all know the rest. Same scenerio, a few drips here and there, and I knew I had to put the washer back on. I took the plug out, held a rag tight on the hole, put the washer on the plug, and slapped it back in the oil pan. Lost just under 1 quart.

After all of that was done, I told a fellow NW BOMBer about it. He said next time to try this(What next time???): Remove the oil fill cap, and put a vacuum hose on it. Turn on the vacuum and then remove the drain plug. Almost zero oil will drain out.

If anyone tries this, post and let us know if it works!

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Rob Hanson
1999 "Big Red", 3500 SLT QC 4X4 6 spd, 4. 10 LSD, Braided SS fuel lines, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins E-Brake, Blue Box, DD3 Injectors, Banks High Ram and 14cm Wastegated Turbo, All-steel Cowl Induction Hood, Cummins RED Valve Cover, Rhino, Rosewood Kit, Scotty System, SportComp Gauges, TorkLift SuperHitch, Tekonsha Brake Controller, Rear Flood lights, Cobra CB, DeeZee Running Boards, BD 2WD Low kit, Air Lift bags and a Geno's "I tromped a Ford" decal. Member of BOMB! (WW NW Chapter)

MyPics.com (pics updated 10/14/00)

I'd rather be... .
Cummin than Strokin.
 
Rob, That's gotta be one heck of a vacuum cleaner. I don't believe my 5hp shop vac would stop oil from falling out of the drain hole even if you could stand the noise coming from the breather tube.

Hope I get to read the post from someone who does try it... Dave
 
Originally posted by Rob Hanson:
He said next time to try this(What next time???): Remove the oil fill cap, and put a vacuum hose on it. Turn on the vacuum and then remove the drain plug. Almost zero oil will drain out.

Well I almost fell off my chair reading this. It might work, but all I could envision is the shop vac filling up with oil and misting everything is site.

Worst I ever did was install 1 qt years ago while helping my Dad with an oil change on the family ride, the last Studebaker Hawk ever built in 1964. Yep, we had it, let it go for a song less than 10 years ago, and I hear now that the new owner without any changes has it on the market for 50K!!!

We both thought the other had installed the plug. LOL.

Shelby



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2001. 5 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH (Built 09-10-00), DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with a Gray Interior. Built 09-15-00, took delivery on 10-06-00, 3873 miles as of 01-04-01. Custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Coming soon: E-Brake and gauges.
 
I don't think my 01 doesn't have a washer. #ad
The dealer did the first oil change so I'm not sure if it had one and they lost it. It looks like a washer on the bottom of the pan but that appears to be steel and part of the pan. There are no leaks. Am I missing something here. My wife's Jeep is the same way. I changed the oil in both of them this weekend. Neither vehicle has a drip problem.

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2001 HO 6 spd 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, Electric Brakes, SPA EGT/Boost Gauges, Running Boards, Fog Lights, Real Backup Lights, Running Boards
 
Originally posted by Rambunctious:
The vacuum metheod works real well. I have used it many times on hydraulic systems as big as 300 gallons and fitting sizes as large as #20 or one and a quarter inches.

Good luck,

Chcuck

wow the ol vaccuum cleaner trick,Whoda ever thunk,Dont feel too bad I once to pulled a real OH S**Ter #ad
IN 79 I was doin an oil change on the wifers cutty supreme,I pulled the plug and filter then while her dripn I go to parts store for new stuff,I can hear you boys laughin already, #ad
well Im in the store I look out der vindo and low and behinney its der lil woman in her cuddy,I runst to her and get her shut down and she says could you check my oil the lite is on #ad
I couldnt flame her as its my fault + I aint got no time to look fer new heffer either. well I go back to shop and get plug and back downtown to do oil change infront of store. 50k later when sold its still fine on oil psi but man im tellin you I thought holly valve clatter battman,I thought it was a psd flower smoke. I guess moral to story TAKE KEYS OUT or atleast lift hood. needless to say when I shingle 12/12 roof I do not ancore off to heffers new jeep grand #ad
 
I read about the shop vac trick on the Ford site a while back. The funniest part was someone had the vac on blow instead of suck one time. It was the fastest the oil had ever come out of that car.

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ex Ford tech, now driving '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54, Patriot Blue
 
He just a minute!!! We talk about draining oil all night to get it all out. Maybe this vacuum connected on blow is not a bad idea. Has anyone tried it on the Cummin's? How do you connect it up? Do you have to block the breather and check oil tube? Does anything happen other than blowing oil all over the place rather than in your drain bucket?

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2001 RAM 3500 dually Quad Cab SLT, 4. 10 limited slip, HO 245 hp, 6-speed, dark garnet pearl coat, interior agate, All options except heated leather, added Betterbuilt brite diamond tool box, Linex spray-in bed liner, Lund hood deflector 3 piece smoke color, DeeZee brite diamond cab/bed running boards and TurboSaver (from Gino's) also Reese 5th wheel 15k hitch. No plans to bomb. This is my retirment vehicle currently pulling 21' 5er want to buy 30 to 35 for retirment.
 
The vacuum metheod works real well. I have used it many times on hydraulic systems as big as 300 gallons and fitting sizes as large as #20 or one and a quarter inches.

Good luck,

Chcuck

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2001 QC 4x4 LB 5spd ISB stock for now!!
 
I must be missing something here... the oil pan and plug is designed so you do not have to remove the drain plug to change the oil. All you need to do is loosen it a couple of turns, the oil doesn't really drain out from above the plug it drains out from the sides, unless, of course, you have one of those new magnetic drain plugs and you want to check to see if it picked up any metal particles. You will wear your drain plug out by unscrewing it and taking it completely out all the time.
Good luck.
 
bigfig,you're right that's the way I also drain my oil,keeps your hand from taking an oil bath,you just get a little on the end of the wrench. It is a good idea though to remove the plug and clean the sealing surfaces,one of these days you may get a chuck of sludge suck in there that prevents a good seal. As far as wearing out the threads,I don't think that will happen since everything is lubed pretty well.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
Originally posted by Alan Reagan:
I don't think my 01 doesn't have a washer. #ad
The dealer did the first oil change so I'm not sure if it had one and they lost it. It looks like a washer on the bottom of the pan but that appears to be steel and part of the pan. There are no leaks. Am I missing something here. My wife's Jeep is the same way. I changed the oil in both of them this weekend. Neither vehicle has a drip problem.


Alan,

The plug seal is made of metal( Brass or copper by the looks of my old one I'm looking at right now)

Dodge has a revised plug seal, part # 04882049, which is rubber coated. One side of the revised seal is completely rubber coated and the other just around the center hole.

Anyone know if there a certain way the revised plug seal is to be installed (pan side & plug side of the seal)???


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'95 2500 SLT 5 speed 4x4
 
I would think that the rubber side of the washer should go against the pan,if you did it the other way the turning motion of the plug when tightening could tear the rubber off.
 
Originally posted by illflem:
I would think that the rubber side of the washer should go against the pan,if you did it the other way the turning motion of the plug when tightening could tear the rubber off.

Bill, that is the way mine was, just looked, as I currently have the OEM plug in the glove box. Thought it was all rubber, until I read this post.

Alan Reagan,

My 2001. 5 has a washer, I would be very surprised if yours didn't.

Shelby

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2001. 5 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH (Built 09-10-00), DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with a Gray Interior. Built 09-15-00, took delivery on 10-06-00, 3873 miles as of 01-04-01. Custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Coming soon: E-Brake and gauges.
 
1tuffram, Thanks for the reply. I guess mine is stuck to the bottom of the pan. Like I said, no leaks, I ain't foolin' with what ain't broke. Later.
 
1tuffram, thanks. I picked one up yesterday and that's what is stuck to the bottom of my pan. It has the metal side down so that it mates against the plug. The new one has adhesive so that it will stick, also. Probably just have to clean off the oil good if I ever replace it. Expensive little devils aren't they?
 
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