Here I am

Off Roading Moab steelbender

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Here is the flex that a 4" Skyjacker softride lift will give you. The flex is limited by the spring eye hitting the frame on compression in the front and the rear hanger on the rear spring rotates forward and hits the shackle mount. Looks like time to consider a shackle flip in the rear.

Tires are 285's~33"

The other pics were just fun. The wall is easier than it looks. :)

I was running 20 PSI and I wouldn't go any lower with the 33's
 
nice. i need to make it back out there. my last trip fell apart there and i had to take it easy and run the simple stuff becuase of the folks that came with.
 
Ken,



Great shots of your truck on Steelbender. I am particularly interested in your first photo of the flex you're getting. I have to admit that I don't know all that much about a Dodge W350, but I assume it has a front anti-sway bar. If so, is your front sway bar disconnected in some way to get that flex? I ask, as my 3500 sway bar is a real limiting factor for me to get much of any flex up front when I am off-road. I have been looking around for a source of simple manual disconnects (to take the place of my factory end links), but no one seems to make these for a full-sized 3500. I realize I could get under there and unbolt my sway bar end links to get the same effect, however, I wanted something that was more user-friendly and easy to reconnect once I am back on-highway. Anyway, I'd appreciate it if you can let me know what you are doing with your front sway bar in this regard. (I think I will also start up a separate thread on this issue).



Thanks,

Don
 
No swaybar installed. I saw a nice QD setup somewhere where the bolt that goes through the lower link bushing was drilled so an ag lynchpin could replace the nut. That is my plan, but for now it is a bit flexy.

Not too bad on the road either. I drove to Portland (just over 2000 miles) the week after the steelbender trip and it was a little loose on the road but I think that was more bumpsteer than anything else. - yes it was a long drive, but the flex made it more comfortable than stock. :-laf



I agree that with your camper that wouldn't be too good of an idea though.

Ken
 
No swaybar installed. I saw a nice QD setup somewhere where the bolt that goes through the lower link bushing was drilled so an ag lynchpin could replace the nut. That is my plan, but for now it is a bit flexy.

Not too bad on the road either. I drove to Portland (just over 2000 miles) the week after the steelbender trip and it was a little loose on the road but I think that was more bumpsteer than anything else. - yes it was a long drive, but the flex made it more comfortable than stock. :-laf



I agree that with your camper that wouldn't be too good of an idea though.

Ken



Yeah, you're right, with the extra weight of a camper in the bed, I need the front sway bar to be doing its thing when hitting curves on-highway. If it wasn't for that, I might just try removing the sway bar altogether. Anyway, I am looking at some other possibilities for a sway bar disco set up and if I find anything that ends up working, I will post about it.
 
Ken,



I realize I could get under there and unbolt my sway bar end links to get the same effect, however, I wanted something that was more user-friendly and easy to reconnect once I am back on-highway. Anyway, I'd appreciate it if you can let me know what you are doing with your front sway bar in this regard. (I think I will also start up a separate thread on this issue).



Thanks,

Don



You only need to unbolt ONE side. ;)
 
doing both sides is better. I have done it both ways on my Jeep



Bob



No doubt! but if you need a quicker/easier set up... also fabbing a quick release on one side will cut the possibility of failure in half. :) If you expect any serious level of articulation a full disconnect is the only way to go.
 
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