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Modification To Convert Exhaust Brake Switch To Normal "ON"

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Several months ago one of our TDR members posted a description of a clever modification he designed and built himself which modified the Exhaust Brake ON/OFF switch in his new ISB6. 7 Ram pickup so that the exhaust brake was normally ON when he started the engine and required no driver input rather than normally OFF as delivered from the factory. The cab and chassis trucks are standard from the factory with the exhaust brake normally ON.

I guess to be more correct I should say that the member modified his EB switch so that once the EB switch was clicked to ON, it remained ON everytime the truck was restarted as the cab and chassis trucks are.

Another member is interested in performing a similar modification to his new ISB6. 7 pickup and has not been able to locate the original thread.

I'm posting this in the hope that the TDR member who made that modification to his truck and posted about it will read this and provide information so that others can copy his idea.
 
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Great, thanks for finding the original post, Mike, BTW, my hubometer works great installed on my HitchHiker. Thanks for knowing I could get a new one preset to accumulated mileage and for shipping me one. I'm a happier camper now.

Here is PCarlson's original post on the always ON exhaust brake modification he made:

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok I found the instructions I was looking for and I copied them below: (Please give you opinion. ) NOTE: These are not my instructions or idea.
Here what you'll need to have an Automatic EB Switch:

1 relay with SPDT ( Single Pole Double Throw )
1 resistance 15 ohms
16 ga wire
1/4'' female straight connector with plastic isolator ( to connect on the relay )
16 ga TAP connector ( the blue ones )

Here's the way to do it:

1. Tap 1 piece of wire from the PINK/Yellow wire on the cigar lighter to pin 85 on the relay
2. Tap 1 piece of wire from the Black/Yellow wire on the cigar lighter to pin 86 on the relay
3. Tap 1 piece of wire from the Violet/Brown wire from the EB switch to pin 30 on the relay
4. Tap 1 piece of wire from the Brown/Orange wire and connect the other end of the wire to the 15 Ohm resistor
5. Connect the other end of the resistor to pin 87a on the relay
 
Glad this is the thread that you were looking for.



Also happy that the hubodometer has worked out, I like it when a customer is pleased with the results... . Oo.



Many times we (parts guys) don't hear how things work out unless something goes horribly wrong... :-laf





Mike.
 
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On my 2009 4500, the EB stays on all the time w/ out having to re-engage. I guess I can see if I turn it off, shut down and restart if it stays off (memory?)



Wiredawg
 
I have done this mod to 2 trucks, about a year ago, both have worked perfect ever since.

A third truck is waiting, but I'm telling the owner to join the TDR and do it himself.
 
I have done this mod to 2 trucks, about a year ago, both have worked perfect ever since.
A third truck is waiting, but I'm telling the owner to join the TDR and do it himself.
 
On my 2009 4500, the EB stays on all the time w/ out having to re-engage. I guess I can see if I turn it off, shut down and restart if it stays off (memory?)

Wiredawg

All cab and chassis trucks are set up at the factory so that the exhaust brake, once clicked on, remains on indefinitely.

Pickups are set up to require pressing the exhaust brake switch to reactivate the exhaust brake on every start up.

That's another advantage of your cab and chassis you were not aware of.
 
Are you all aware that having the Exhaust brake active on slick roads can cause rear wheels to slip and and start an out of control situation?



My 02
 
Are you all aware that having the Exhaust brake active on slick roads can cause rear wheels to slip and and start an out of control situation?

My 02

Uhhh, yes, I guess. In theory that can happen.

I"ve used an exhaust brake from day one on all three of my Dodge Rams for over 660k miles. I've driven them on rain wet highways and highways covered with snow and ice always using the exhaust brake.

I've never had one slip or skid but I think I do remember a time several years ago when I felt the rear wheels slightly losing traction and disengaged the brake.

It is something to think of when gearing down and using the brake when in a reduced traction condition but it is rarely a big problem.
 
Hey all

My truck did not have the EB in it and it is a C&C. so I went and got the switch and the wire harness and got the EB turned on and it is on alway even at start up that is if I leve the switch on. The kit cost me $124. 00 and it was simple to do.
 
KDoerr,

Your truck, like mine, is a cab and chassis. The factory wiring harness, switch, and ECM program is set up so that the exhaust brake, once activated by the switch, is always on every time we start our trucks. Our exhaust brake function is "normally on" once turned on.

The pickup version of the ISB6. 7 uses the identical turbocharger with exhaust braking but the switch, wiring harness, and ECM programming are different than our C&Cs. The driver has to punch the exhaust brake switch every time he starts the engine. Pickup truck exhaust braking is "normally off" until turned on.
 
Someone I was talking to about exhaust brakes said they cannot run the exhaust brake on their fire trucks unless it's dry out - apparently they've got major braking force and it locks the tires right up in the rain.

I'd like to have a lot more braking force on tap, but just having it on without hitting the button every time would be a good start.
 
An exhaust brake used by just about anyone with adequate skill to have a driver's license is perfectly safe to use except on ice.

Fire trucks are ordinarily fully loaded with equipment and water tanks while sitting in the firehouse. I would figure the normal state of a fire truck would be loaded to or near rated gross vehicle weight. It sounds silly to think a fully loaded fire truck would not have adequate traction on a rain wet street to use the factory exhaust brake.
 
Are you all aware that having the Exhaust brake active on slick roads can cause rear wheels to slip and and start an out of control situation?



My 02
You are correct, in that an exhaust brake can cause rear wheel slippage in incliment conditions. However that really applies to a true exhaust brake (Jake Brakes) the big rigs run which are actually within the engine components, not in the exhaust of the rig. You can also set different levels for the conditions you are in. If you were to apply the full Jake Brake under the best of conditions it can pull you forward, like you hit your brakes hard. The exhaust brake we have in the 6. 7, can cause a loss of traction but it would be on icy roads not wet conditions. If you chose to drive under bad conditions, then I'm sure you have the skill for it. If you allow your kid (or someone else) that has no experience in driving icy conditions I guess you will have a wrecked truck.



I have driven the Pacific North West in blizzard conditions with 75K GCVW and had the Jake brake set for the least application of them, and went down some steep grades. If the neon sign thats bigger than your rig says truck speed limit is 25MPH "Icy Conditions" just before you go down the grade, I guess that you can use them if you have the skill. ;)
 
I have a 09 Cummins ISX with the Jakes and Also The Exhaust Brake in it. What it is the Jakes work of the valves and the Exhaust Brake works of the Turbo. On the ISX you have 6 settings for braking 1 Being low breaking and 6 for heavy braking. If I'm running around with no trailer the rear tires will lock up on wet pavement on setting 6. The 6. 7 will make full braking power with more RPM so if you have 3000 RPM you will have Full Braking and that is what your HP is for the motor. So 300 HP = 300 Foot pound of Braking power. Also If you are going down a hill with almost full GVW or full GVW the 6. 7 will have full braking power if you keep the RPM's up.
 
Someone I was talking to about exhaust brakes said they cannot run the exhaust brake on their fire trucks unless it's dry out - apparently they've got major braking force and it locks the tires right up in the rain.



I'd like to have a lot more braking force on tap, but just having it on without hitting the button every time would be a good start.



The fire truck may have been equipped with a Telma electro-magnetic retarder. The Telma units come on strong. I know of a situation of a firetruck using a Telma on a wet road which caused it do a 360. A smoother, but more expensive system, is a hydraulic retarder built in an Allison World transmission in combination with a Detroit 60-series engine.



Bill
 
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