2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Moog Torque

[ramman-mn]

I recently purchased a Moog track bar for my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, does anyone know the torque settings for the upper and lower track bar? Thanks.

 

[JCyrbok]

Assuming it would be the same as the stock bar, my DC Shop manuel (for 01. 5 truck) has the ball end nut torque listed as 70 ft/lbs and the axle end as

130 ft/lbs.



Hope this helps



J-

 

[crasher]

Actually, The new Moog track bars come with a blue sticker in the parts bag that states that the new bars use a higher torque spec due to improved design ( just did mine today, AAMOF ). Sadly, there is no mention of *what* the spec has been increased to or where to find it. Moog's website doesn't refer to it at all, prolly cuz they don't want to take liability for dispersing numbers to a buncha nitwits like us who are our own warranty stations :-laf

 

[WestTN]

The torque required is a function of the fastener used, so if you are re-using the original fastener then use the service manual torque.

 

[WilsonF]

I recently purchased a Moog track bar for my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, does anyone know the torque settings for the upper and lower track bar? Thanks.

I didn't know that a 02 had an upper AND lower track bar.



Floyd

 

[crasher]

The torque required is a function of the fastener used, so if you are re-using the original fastener then use the service manual torque.

The lower bolt at the axle is reused. I'm ok with your instruction on that.



The upper end at the frame location uses a new castle nut/cotter key (all supplied) for the ball joint connection through the frame mount. This is on a '97 with the 8800 lb rating. I assume the config is the same for other weight ratings.



On a side note, there's an indented circular area under the castle nut at the upper trackbar ball joint. It's about twice the diameter of the casle nut, and a flatwasher slips into it nice and flush, like it's supposed to be there under the nut. The problems are that there wasn't one there ( it's a used to me truck 250K ago ) and the thickness of the washer puts the castle nut too high to accept the cotter key. I left the washer off, but the top of the machined stud hole directlly under the castle nut is just a tad wider than looks normal for a no-washer application. I was also concerned that an improper washer would corrode and cause slack that never got retorqued or corrected. Am I trying to outsmart myself here? Is this some detail I need to find a solution for? There's nothing in the manual or Moog's site about this.



Thanks for any insight.