Moog vs Dana

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can anyone tell me why moog suspension parts have in and out movement,parts in question are the tierod ends,pitman arm,trackbar,and draglink. These are new parts right out of the box,called moog and they said this is the way they are designed,I told them that this is why im replacing these parts in the fist place. The amount of play that my truck exibits is unbelievable,my truck is all over the road. Last week I had my son turn the steering wheel wih the engine on while I was under the truck ,all of those parts mentioned move excessivly in and out. Look under my reply under steering wander for more info. Im going insain with this steering problem. Help ME.

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Gregg Mig

 

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Go to NAPA and ask for Dana parts. Also it 4x4, check the track bar, it goes from the frame to the axle. Then check the steering shaft. Post your results. Good luck.

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'94 3500 4x4, 196,000 miles, Auto w/shift kit,3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.

 

[Archive]

I checked all my components last time I changed the oil. Everything seemed pretty tight except the steering shaft had play at the steering box. Do I just need to adjust it? Or what?

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, Boost Regulator & Elbow, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

[Archive]

well guys I just got done replacing my tierods, pitman arm,trackbar, and dragbar with moog problem solver balljoints and there is no difference,the parts still have slop when the steering wheel is turned right to left while the engine is running and myself under the truck. The joints still move in and out,even the new improved trackbar with the larger balljoint moves. Im going to take the parts of tomorrow and return them. These trucks need the none spring loaded kind because the spring loaded ones have to much in and out movement,there is to much weight up front with the diesel engine. I believe this is were alot of our drivablity problems are coming from. I cant believe DC is not awre of this ,every time my truck was in they said thats normal,well I say that HorseSH!!. Does anyone know were I can get non spring loaded balljoints.

 

[Archive]

TX RAM were is the play,on the pitman shaft or the imput shaft,also is the play side to side or in and out .

 

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It's on the input shaft (?) coming from the firewall to the steering box. I can turn the shaft and it turns the steering wheel about 10 degrees right and 10 degrees left with the ignition off and obviously no movement on the output of the steering box. Does that make sense? Just getting around to learning the steering system.

thanks for the help.

 

[Archive]

Check out this post. It is the Steering Wander 6/23/00 in this same forum. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/000114.html

My steering has been very tight but if the ignition was off there appeared to be a lot of play. I could grab the steering shaft and turn it back and forth with no wheel movement. The dealer and I have been trying to solve this problem for several weeks about the oversteering. I've had the front end alligned at their expense and that stopped the pull I had to the right. The rest of the problem gets down to two adjustments, the bearing preload and that allen screw on top of the steering box. If the allen screw is in too far, the steering will not self center and if it is too loose you will be fighting the self centering. The dealer mechanic and I fine tuned that one till it was correct. I haven't done the preload adjustment because I couldn't get the steering shaft off the splined shaft in the steering box last night. However, I did find that the steering shaft appeared to be binding against the locknut on the steering box. I was able to leave a little space between the shaft and locknut when I replaced the bolt and there is a big difference in how smooth it steers. The truck is driving much better but the dealer has not ruled out replacing the steering box. They have been very helpful and are willing to do what it takes to straighten this out. I believe the final bearing preload adjustment will take care of this. It was not just one thing. The front end was out of allignment and the centering adjustment was too tight and I believe from a 97 TSB that the bearing preload might not be enough. Combining those things made for an interesting drive especially on curves to the left. Now, there is no pull, it self centers at a rate that is comfortable to me. I just feel that the whole steering system came with too many mal/misadjustments and I'm going to perform all of the adjustments to make it right. I'm doing them one at a time (me and the dealer)so that we know the effect each one has on the steering system. Sorry for the long post.

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2001 ETH DEE 2500, 4. 10 LSD, Towing Package, PYRO/Boost Gauges
Real Backup Lights

[This message has been edited by Alan Reagan (edited 06-23-2000). ]