2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission More advice on Shocks, please.

[Batphreak]

I am getting ready to hook a bit of a load to my truck, '72 GMC K1500 on a gooseneck trailer. My shocks are pretty well worn out. From reading here I've determined the Blue/Yellow Bilsteins would be a great shock for my truck. However, I need to get shocks installed this weekend so I can hook the trailer up the weekend of Aug8. I have the front shocks on the way from Geno's, but the rears are on backorder. If they come in to Geno's at the end of this week (which is expected) I may get them mid-late next week, hopefully I can slap them on in a night, but it'll be a rush job.

So, with all that I'm considering either different shocks that I could pick up locally, or possibly putting a different shock on the rear. Has anyone ever tried putting different shocks on the rear than the front? I'm sure it isn't advised, but I'd like to do something to make sure the truck hauls like it should. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Joe Mc]

Wait for the Bilsteins don't mix shocks. Mine had Monroe Gas Matics on it when I bought it back in 01. I changed them to Bilsteins in 03 and with 70k on them they're still great! Of course I don't haul anything . . .

 

[Missouri Mule]

I would wait for the shocks but just before time runs out I would put a pair of Ranch 9000s on the back.

 

[Batphreak]

I know I'm going to be happiest with the Bilsteins at all 4 corners. I'm really leaning toward waiting and worst case is that I have the fronts replaced then just have to haul with the weak current ones in the rear. I really think my front shocks are more worn out than the rear ones anyway.

 

[dieselshu]

Rear shock install

Bat,

The rears take about 30min, drop thew spare tire and there is 4 bolts total. Ensure you PB Blaster every bolt every day starting today. If you have lived in the Midwest for anytime you under carriage will have some salt corrosion. A impact driver will definately help. The fronts can be a real pain because you will need a allen wrench to hold the shaft while you loosen the nut. If the threads are corroded which most likely they are it can take a bit. Loosen the top nut then the bottom then remove the shock tower and the shock will come out, it will expand a bit but does not have the pressure that bilsteins do on them. The drivers side is difficult because the brake master cylinder can get in the way but it can be done. When you install keep the retaining strap non the shock until it is installed otherwise the shock will extend and be a pain in the rear to compress down. hope this helps.



Dave

 

[Batphreak]

Oh yes, I've been soaking the bolts in PB blaster since last Sunday, and I've definitely got an impact to help things along. Plus, I have new bolts and flag nuts for the mounts just in case.

So, I've read a number of suggestions that one should jack up the truck and get the suspension to go to full droop, but from what I read in the manuals this isn't exactly necesary. As long as I leave the retaining straps on the new shocks can I just put them in with the truck sitting on the ground? Makes it a lot easier to access the top side on the front shocks.

 

[Skydiver]

I wait till sears has a sale and buy the cheapest they have. Cheapest give the smoothest ride. I don't need high perpormance shocks. And being done at sears the parts and labor is lifetime warranty.

I only buy shocks at sears unless they have a super tire sale. Saying this they will probably go bankrupt next week.